How are you going to torque the transmission pulley nut during reassembly? I'm only asking because if you don't have the tool, and don't want to buy or build one you might want to just pull the entire transmission out now and take it to a shop to get the nut torqued.

I made a tool from a Sears 1 7/8" socket (about $20) that I cut in half with a chop saw then welded in some pipe for the extension. Another option, if you don't have a way to weld, is buy the socket and pipe and take them to a machine shop and have them fab it up for you.

The below was taking the nut off. Putting it back on you don't want to use a impact wrench just a large torque wrench.

 

You only need to cut through half the depth and around three quarters of the length. Then stick a large chisel in the cut and whack it with a big hammer. The race will split along the cut line. Just be careful not to cut all the way through the race and score the input shaft (You'll open a can of worms you probably dont want to deal with if you dont have to). The only time you need to use this method is when the race has walked inboard, and closed the .100" spacing thats supposed to be there between the race and the main shaft (ring) seal.

 

Just a heads up for anyone looking to buy some new stuff. The Doc has FREEBIES!

All of us at Dr. V-Twin wanted to thank everyone for your business and support, so we are including a FREE gift on all orders STARTING TODAY, August 4, 2010 and until supplies last.

We are going to include a FREE STAINLESS STEEL tamper proof seat security screw kit on all orders no matter what the amount your order totals.

******LIMIT 1 PER CUSTOMER PER ORDER******

If your order is $500.00 or more, you get the FREE tamper proof seat security screw and one of our WORLD FAMOUS 3rd generation Dr. V-Twin t-shirts!!!! Shirts are available in medium, large, XL, XXL and XXXL sizes.

Just another way for us to say thank you and to make your buying experience at Dr. V-Twin even sweeter!

Thanks guys!

The entire staff at Dr. V-Twin

 

I was able to get my inner p off without removing oil tank by making special extension for my ratchet by cutting it down on the lathe to clear oil switch on back side of tranney for that one trickey allen head.

 

lol!!
+1

 

Thank God! LOl. One day I'll have a full sable with a Dyna, softail, and bagger along with the sporty that is sitting here. Until then, bash away gents. I think we are in the softail section here, are we not! I guess I could just say you have thinly veiled softail envy.

Drew

 

Drew, there's a lot I like about them, but they're definitely mis-named. You shouldn't need an Air-Ride to keep your *** from getting sore on a 300-mile ride. You're right, though, this is the Softail section, I'll STFU now

Glad you're getting it sorted out.

 

i,ve been told that the starter can be removed without taking off the oil tank. long ball allen sockets. tank is a pain in the ****. the other thing to look out for is using improper clamps on the oil line hoses. the dealer has the correct clamps, and the crimp tool can be found at many good auto parts stores. you,ve gotta remove the rear wheel and fender extention to crimp them. avoid the stainless zip ties. they will work loose.....oil leak. steve

 

Help me out here DR V Twin. Little lost as to how this sleeve sliding back hit the oil seal. This is the harden inner race for the outboard transmission bearing between the transmission and primary. Looking from the clutch side inward it should have been trapped by the larger diameter spacer the actual runs in the seal for the back side of the primary cover. Then you have the quad seal for the transmission and a large snap ring and transmission bearing. If the outer race moved back how did it push the next larger seal sleeve back unless you have a snap ring in the transmission gone bad? Was your primary leaking or was it your transmission? What is that oil type on the floor?

 

I think i have the same problem with my 97 fatboy .I took off the tank but i want to take the starter off. So I guess i have to take the primary cover off to do it right? Does the clutch basket have to come off also? Thanks for any input you can give .