Originally Posted by 2010 crossbones

Hey guys, I finished my rear fender conversion this passed weekend and it looks great! It took me a little longer because I used a`46 Harley replica tail light I found on Ebay. Problem... new light socket had only two wires (red & black) not three as I mentioned in an earlier post,factory has three(black, orange/w & red/y) Did`nt want to ask H/D because you know how they are! I decided I needed to reuse the tail light circuit board assm. I had to gut the new tail light and use the Harley factory tail light socket assm. in the `46 housing with a lite mod to the socket bracket inside the housing, it fit like factory when I was done. I bought a 4"x2.5" black plastic box from Radio Shack (They call it a "project Inclosier") to house the circuit board, It came with two lids a plastic one and a metal one,the lids attachs on with four screws,I cut the correct sized holes in the plastic lid to pass the plugs though.I attached the box to the bottom right side of the fender below the brace with outdoor velcro and a small amount of windshield urithane sealer (I am an autoglass installer by trade for the last 25 years), I exstended my harnesses 10", wrapped them and neatly ran the harnesses down under the brace and plugged them into the box and then sealed around the plugs with windsheild butyl seal (soft dum-dum) I then took the metal lid and bent it in the vise and used it as a stone gaurd over top the plastic lid and wires. Plenty of clearence to the tire,two of the guys I ride with said it looked factory (the one guy is super picky!) so that made me feel good! As for the ECM I did like SKEEZ and notched out the lower seat brace so the plug is`nt stessed. At the top of the ECM plate instead of grinding it away I bent mine just a little at the bolt hole to match the contour of the fat boy fender and used the original seat pan flat head screw to hold it down...NOW FOR THE SEAT PAN...HERE`S HOW TO GET RID OF THAT GAP PAN TO FENDER AND YOU MAY NOT HAVE TO DEAL WITH A BIB, this will work with both xbones & F/B fenders.Go to your local Auto glass shop and ask for "FLEXTRIM UNIVERSAL MOLDING" This windshield molding is self sticking and comes in 75'foot bulk rolls PART# FTU0830-75. Get about 3'feet or if they dont have it ask for PART#WFS D1226 fits late 90`s to early 2000`s Dodge Caravan windshield.I put this molding on upside down around the part of the seat pan that touches the fender(I mean gapped at the fender), Like SKEEZ no need to drill out the fender to bolt down the seat pan it sits on there snug,now just ask your glass shop for a cowl plug,snip off the end and glue it in the hole with just a dab of black silicone. It looks like it rolled of the line at York,PA. it looks that good!!! 2010 Crossbones in Black Ice Denim with 01` heritage front fender ,03 springer heritage bags`10 fat boy rear fender,Vance and Hines Big Radius flat black pipes...DONE!!! Thanks to everyone for the advise. Doug in Maryland. (potata potata potata potata)

Originally Posted by DakotaYota

If I run the atboy rear fender, can I not us my springer seat and crossbone pillion. On page 8 you all talk about not using the seat pan screw, I need this to mount the pillion. So how do you accomplish this and get everything to look right?

Originally Posted by Rakthi

You will need to drill a hole in the fender for the bolt to go through. No big deal really. You can then use a rivnut or one of the "HD Fender Seat Nut Kits" (part number 59768-97)

Just make sure you measure correctly before you start drilling.

NOTE: you will have to bend the front bracket of the pillion seat a bit down as otherwise the plastic bottom pan will crack due to the tension put on it with the difference in curvature of the fenders.

Originally Posted by Covenant

Did anyone else have a problem getting the hole on the top of the Cross Bones frame cover to line up with the Fat Boy rear fender? The screw hole on the fender is about an inch lower than the frame cover hole.

Originally Posted by brattwurzt

I had this same problem, but I hated to half-*** it, so I full-assed it. I started with a raw metal fender, and instead of living with the gap and filling it with trim, I took a maul and gently hammered the section of the fender that obstructed the pan from sitting flat. Surprisingly, it hammered very easily and neatly. Then, by relocating the ECM holes, I also did not need to modify the seat bracket. The seat cover fits really flush now, and covers the hammered area completely.