On the wide tire models you need to remove the pads before the caliper can come out and a lot of times people pry to much and **** the pistons makeing them stick. I know I learned my lesson.

 

my friend had that issue a few weeks ago!! we drained and changed the brake fluid! that fixed it!

 

Yeah, thread resurrection but I got the same Issue now. I have an 09 Crossbones and I changed the shoes out and within 200 miles I have blued brake rotors and my wheel won't spin freely at all. I have rebuilt the calipers, used the grease as they say don't use brake fluid to lubricat the parts?!? (WHY?) bled the brakes twice and still they sit firmly on the rotor. And like others the front has no issues, just that back one. Kinda bumming me out as I have in all my years of working on my old Iron Heads and Shovel heads never came across this until now. Kinda frustrated here and yes I did read the entire thread before posting. So what would cause this issue? My brakes according to a meat thermometer was around 340 degrees F. I cook around those temps in my oven. Any help appreciated.

 

If you know for sure that your caliper is good and ALL the parts are moving freely, then it moves to your master cylinder. Does it release pressure when you open the bleeder? Make sure the pressure bleed hole isn't plugged with some foreign object/material.

 

I will check that next. I actually just got through doing what the manual said not to do and everything is moving like it is supposed to so far. I am about to take a quick ride down 380 and see and if that isn't it It goes to the master cylinder like you said. I thought of that too, just hoping it wasn't.

 

Rotor is still hot as hell and still drag there... I actually saw smoke rising off of it this time.

 

Curiosity here, THe old brake shoes had a "Spacer" dooflotchie like a piece of sheet metal and a fiber glass piece shaped like it. the manual doesn't show this piece. Is it necessary? It takes almost 1/8 of in inch of space behind the rotor.

 

My 03 Fatboy was doing that last month. Turned out to be a piece of trash in the master cylinder, pads weren't retracting.

 

Just make sure it's not your bearings going...That's what is was for me, twice with 2 diff. sets of bearings. One lasted 6k and the second 7 k, then switched to timken. It turned out that THE REAR BRAKE WAS HELPING TO HOLD THE REAR WHEEL IN PLACE...DID 1200 BUCKS DAMAGE THAT WAS REPAIRED UNDER WARRANTY...CHECK THEM OUT AND REPLACEMENTS ARE ONLY 30 BUCKS FOR A SET OF GOOD ONES (TIMKEN OR ALL *****-NOT THE HD ONES, EVER!!!!). Good luck, ride safe.

 

On my softy, the rear brake pedal pivot pin was rusty and was keeping the brake from fully releasing, so it came apart for new bushings, o-rings and grease.