I've gone through two HIGH BEAM with 25,000 on my bike. i don't feel good about riding with my low beam during the day.. Anything to stay VISIBLE here in Virginia Beach helps, Friggin Crazy *** drivers in this city!

 

i just replaced mine again and this time i cleaned it with alcohol and then user bulb grease on the contacts but more important i found water drops under the rubber boot. i coated the boot with bulb grease and think this will make a better seal

 

When installing the visor trim ring on the stock FXCWC headlight, I was surprised to see the mounting that attaches headlight shell wasn't sealed.
It has gaps about 1/8 inch. Rain wouldn't be a problem, but washing could allow water inside to short-out the connectors or rust out the internals of the shell.

I can't get down to pick it up until Tuesday, but my billet headlight is in I ordered. If it isn't sealed, I'm going to seal it before installing it.

 

Mine burned out quick when I used the Sylvania silverstar, but I got some other brand last time ( I don't know the brand) and it has been going strong for a long time. The one I have now has a blue tint to it and my buddy gave it to me.

Drew

 

I had somewhere between 25 and 30K on the original bulb on my bike before I changed it to a PIAA super plasma gtx (oem bulb still worked). Have at least 40K on that bulb and usually run the low beam. I also have the brake/run/turn gizmo on my bike and also am running led turnsignals with load equalizer. I agree with Viking about the vibration, so you may want to try what he suggested.

 

In the FWIW category: it was discovered some years ago in private propeller powered aircraft that the landing lights, (many mounted directly below the engine) lasted much longer when the filament inside the bulb was vertically oriented, not horizontal. If you have a choice, you might not due to way the socket/bulb is manufactured, it might be worth a try.

 

I have 2 road kins they both eat bulbs..

 

Had sporadic headlight on 2000 Road King. Turned out to be improper crimp on pin connectors from hi/lo switch. Blue, yellow, and white wires not crimped enough at the pin inside nacelle. Cut six inches from wires to make sure it wasn’t a break in the wires themselves and reused the pin connectors. Seems to work well at this time.

 

My stock HD low went out around 10k. I replaced and noticed that replacement had the low go out. I then said a few choice words until I started to remove it when the power switch was on and it came back on. Bad Connectivity - I like the recommendation of TheBikingViking. VIBRATION - If someone finds an O-Ring as described let us know.

Until then while riding in day - I check the light now all the time prior to a ride. OR I may just as others have posted just switch on the HIGH even during the day.

 

42,800 miles here.