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Old 05-18-2010, 06:42 PM
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So, got around to buying one of the gauges to check my belt tension and it was a bit loose. **** as I am, I purchased some dial calipers to make sure my rear axle was centered.

Took it for a test ride and was able to take my hands off the bars and the bike didn't want to veer left. Used to have to counter-weight it a bit to keep it true. It never felt terrible, but just always knew.

Shockingly, must have came from Harley with the back tire out of alignment. Bought her new. Go go Harley mechanics!
 
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Old 05-18-2010, 07:56 PM
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mine does the same thing.......How does this tool work? I can never tell if the wheels st8
 
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Old 05-18-2010, 08:45 PM
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This video is annoying, but shows the general concept if you wana check your rear axle..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Fuh-...eature=related


BTW, that's not me, lol. Just wanted to make that clear.

The service manual states no more than 1/32" of a difference is allowable, btw.
 

Last edited by Albreave; 05-18-2010 at 08:49 PM.
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Old 05-18-2010, 08:49 PM
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The tool is not necessary. Start by checking if the belt is centered in the pulley - bike on lift, spin rear wheel. If not, adjust axle to center belt and set belt tension. Go for a ride, take hands off bars at 50+ mph. If bike goes left, adjust right side of axle forward. Bike wants to go right, pull right side axle back - always paying attention to how tight the belt is.
 
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Old 05-18-2010, 08:55 PM
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Like I said, ****. 30 dollar tool to dial in my rear axle seems like a decent purchase for me. Saves alot of farting around time.
 
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Old 05-18-2010, 09:42 PM
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The way I was taught, was to get a piece of string about 4' feet longer then twice your wheelbase measurement. Wrap the middle of the string once around the rear portion of the rear tire and wheel about 4" off the ground.
You want to wrap the string high as you can on the rear tire and still be able to keep the string fairly level when you pull it, without touching any of the bike's structure.
Have someone sit on the bike and hold it straight up with the front wheel pointing forward. Put the 2 ends of the string on either side of the front tire. Pick the strings up and spread them apart. Then while pulling them taut slowly bring the strings toward each other. When they touch the forward portion of the rear tire, stop. At this point the 2 ends of the string should be running parallel to the front tire .
This will tell you if your rear tire is in proper alignment.
Tom
 

Last edited by tmitchellof PG; 05-18-2010 at 09:47 PM.
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Old 05-18-2010, 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by tmitchellof PG
The way I was taught, was to get a piece of string about 4' feet longer then twice your wheelbase measurement. Wrap the middle of the string once around the rear portion of the rear tire and wheel about 4" off the ground.
You want to wrap the string high as you can on the rear tire and still be able to keep the string fairly level when you pull it, without touching any of the bike's structure.
Have someone sit on the bike and hold it straight up with the front wheel pointing forward. Put the 2 ends of the string on either side of the front tire. Pick the strings up and spread them apart. Then while pulling them taut slowly bring the strings toward each other. When they touch the forward portion of the rear tire, stop. At this point the 2 ends of the string should be running parallel to the front tire .
This will tell you if your rear tire is in proper alignment.
Tom
What to do with a solid rear rim ? Guess I'll buy the tool.....
 
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Old 05-19-2010, 02:54 PM
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Tape the string as high as you can, on the center, of the rear portion of the rear tire and still have clearance to any of the bike structure.
I also used to use a straight edge that was long enough to bump against the rear and front tires. I would use magazines to elevate the straight edge to the proper height and keep it level.
Some people use long florescent light bulbs, but I never had access to any that were long enough.
Tom
 
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