Gents,

A couple of questions:
I have the BAL 3 Series Tail Light with license plate light on my bike and it is causing the security light to stay on. Anyone have problems with this?
Also I am going to attempt to disassemble my forks and have them PC. Anyone have a thread link for a detailed layout on the disassembley procedure?

 

a) No problems with my BAL-3ST..but I have a 2010 before they totally forked up the electrical system..

b) Somewhere in this thread, and even again not too long ago, I posted about how to take the forks apart for powdercoating..it's not hard:
--------------------------
1) Drain the forks, remove the plug near the bottom of the rear of the fork and remove the top nut from the top of the forks so the air flows through and they drain faster (no kidding, huh?)
2) Take the forks off from the bike (yeah no kidding, huh?)
3) Looking town in to the top of the lower, there's a small clip that comes right out with a small flathead screwdriver.




4) Turn the forks up-side-down and remove the brass allen-bolt, this bolt holds the lowers to the inner-fork tubes and obviously needs to come out.




5) Get a buddy, put a towel on the ground with some decent padding. Stand the fork upright on the towel, and have your buddy (or you, whichever) grasp the lower and push downwards onto the towel
6) The other person, grab the inner-fork tube, and push down a little bit, then with as much M-A-N as you can muster, slam the fork upwards.. after a few shots, you will cause the gasket seal inside the lower to come loose, and the inner forks will slide right out.
7) Clean them up and send them to the powdercoater.

..don't be afraid to get nasty with them.. there's no pressure from the springs in the lowers. the springs are housed inside the metal inner forks and will stay compressed through the disassembly.

 

Goatman, I just ordered the BAL3-ST and they called me yesterday and told me about the security problem. Apparently the electronics on the bike check the brake light for a certain resistance in order to verify the correct operation of the brake light. If the resistance is wrong then the computer thinks that a bulb is burnt out or something else is wrong and it will throw a code. The problem with the BAL3-ST is that some modes will cause the bike to throw that code. They told me a fix is out or coming out and might be included in my order but that if I didn't get the fix then several of the modes would still work without tripping a code. I think the ones that would work was three quick flashes then solid, ten quick flashes and then solid, and something else I don't remember. Most of the modes that tripped the code were parade modes. Give them a call and they can help you out I'm sure.

 

If you have the security system don't you have to get the load balancer when you use LED's?
It's a little rectangle thing that plugs into the electrical system.

 

I am pretty sure that on the 2011 and up there is no need for the load equalizer. I have led signals front and rear and a Led tail light on my 2011 and have had no problems with it. BTW I don't have the BAL so I can't help there.

 

Thanks for the info guys.
I followed what Fatbob USMC EOD wrote and just changed the settings on the light, so far so good.
Sgt Jim thanks! It is suppose to rain this weekend so the forks will probably come off then. But today it is sunny and 72 degrees and that means it is time to ride.
Thanks again to all that replied.

 

And if you don't have anyone that can help, just grab the lower with one hand and the upper slider with the other and treat it like a slide hammer. Give it a couple whacks and you'll feel it start to move the seal & washer. Then ease back a little and a couple whacks later they'll come apart. I never have anybody to help me with with mods, sometimes you have to get creative.

 

I'm 198lbs last time I checked, and only ride solo. If you're in the same range and don't have issues riding solo at three turns I should be fine. I'll back them off today and see how it goes. One of these days I'll justify the $$$ for a shotgun shock.

 

Jim,

Did you relocate your coil and horn yet? I am thinking I am going to do this since I have my bike torn apart for my bars. I may do some powder coating while I am at it as well.

Has anyone mounted the coil a different way then Beasley did? He has the coil wires pointing up.

 

Yeah I fabricated up a bracket out of 1/8" steel, moved the horn and made a bracket for that too out of a piece of flat iron, then ground down the edges and made it nice and good looking.. just gotta do the wiring (which im having a buddy of mine do, since like i said, I hate soldering), and paint it then that's it.. was easier than I had thought it would be