Calling all FatBoy Lo Owners
#1912
#1913
You have to remove:
Headlight
Tins behind headlight
wheel/brake/etc
Loosen pinch bolts, remove top cap bolts, pull them down and out of the trees. Disassemble on the bench.
#1914
Hey quick question.... I really like the street slammer bars, but don't really like the price. Does anybody know which version of the wild1 bars match the closest to the HD bars? As far as the rise and pullback? Also I know that most people say you only have to change the brake line with the HD bars, is that the same with the wild1 Bars? Thanks in advance for the help.
#1915
Nope. Just have the bike up on a jack. If you have weight on them when you go to remove the top bolts, you'll get a surprise.
You have to remove:
Headlight
Tins behind headlight
wheel/brake/etc
Loosen pinch bolts, remove top cap bolts, pull them down and out of the trees. Disassemble on the bench.
You have to remove:
Headlight
Tins behind headlight
wheel/brake/etc
Loosen pinch bolts, remove top cap bolts, pull them down and out of the trees. Disassemble on the bench.
Perfect! Already drained the brake fluid, in the middle of a bar swap now!
#1916
Hey quick question.... I really like the street slammer bars, but don't really like the price. Does anybody know which version of the wild1 bars match the closest to the HD bars? As far as the rise and pullback? Also I know that most people say you only have to change the brake line with the HD bars, is that the same with the wild1 Bars? Thanks in advance for the help.
But, the 6.5 risers fit... not sure what that means re: different bars, but wanted to throw that out there.
#1917
#1918
Input from the diddler.. if you look back a few pages I wrote a quick blurb on how to get the lowers off of the actual forks.. it's incredibly easy, and like a 5 step process:
..assuming you have the forks out of the housing..
1) Remove the drain screw from the back of the fork on the lower ends
2) Turn the fork upside-down, and look in the bottom. You'll notice a brass colored Allen-headed bolt sticking in the bottom of the fork. This holds the actually spring assembly to the lower fork. Remove these bolts.
3) Look in the top of the lower, there is a retension spring sitting there..it pops right out with a small screw driver, remove these and set them aside.
4) Put the end of the fork on a padded surface (a folded rag works) so that it is facing upright.. get a friend to hold the lowers with a downward force (try to keep the bottom planted on the ground)
5) You need to press downwards on the fork, then slam it upwards as hard as you can.. this will get the rubber ring inside to pop loose out of the lower..then the spring assembly will slide right out. Replace these rings, they're about $10 from Harley each, and idk the part number off the top of my head. And that's it!
...of course reassembly is much different..still relatively easy..
yeah.
#1919
As far as lowering it, I have the shotgun shock (air ride).
Here are some pics to show the new fender next to the old for comparison on the paint matching the stock fender.
Thanks also for the comps! I'm sure Willie feels the same.
I know the glare is bad, because I suk at taking pics hehe.
Last edited by JIMSFBL; 04-04-2011 at 06:08 PM.
#1920
I bought mine off of ebay for $106 shipped. It was raw tin, so I did all the sanding, priming and painting myself.
As far as lowering it, I have the shotgun shock (air ride).
Here are some pics to show the new fender next to the old for comparison on the paint matching the stock fender.
Thanks also for the comps! I'm sure Willie feels the same.
As far as lowering it, I have the shotgun shock (air ride).
Here are some pics to show the new fender next to the old for comparison on the paint matching the stock fender.
Thanks also for the comps! I'm sure Willie feels the same.