Calling all FatBoy Lo Owners
#1541
I've really enjoyed trawlin' through most of this thread.
A question. I'm picking up my vivid FLSTFB in just over a day Here in the UK it's a Fat Boy Special and not a Lo. Is there a difference? Maybe it's not lowered? It's got the pesky exhaust flap valve though
I've picked up some ideas from this thread. I love the headlamp nacelle in black and I already have a fender bib on order. I think the black fork lowers are spot on and I'll take a peep at the price.
I've got billet black gear and brake levers, black diamond grips and a black slotted gear change rod incoming. I've also ordered some Khrome Werks slash cut mufflers that I'm going to have ceramic coated in black. My only other add on is a Fehling mini rack that sits behind the rear seat.
Another question, can the primary chaincase be polished with solvol or is it laquered?
I like the mini beach bars and the stock saddle, much better than the FLSTF for me.
Here's my ride being delivered to the dealer last week:
Black is good.
Peter
A question. I'm picking up my vivid FLSTFB in just over a day Here in the UK it's a Fat Boy Special and not a Lo. Is there a difference? Maybe it's not lowered? It's got the pesky exhaust flap valve though
I've picked up some ideas from this thread. I love the headlamp nacelle in black and I already have a fender bib on order. I think the black fork lowers are spot on and I'll take a peep at the price.
I've got billet black gear and brake levers, black diamond grips and a black slotted gear change rod incoming. I've also ordered some Khrome Werks slash cut mufflers that I'm going to have ceramic coated in black. My only other add on is a Fehling mini rack that sits behind the rear seat.
Another question, can the primary chaincase be polished with solvol or is it laquered?
I like the mini beach bars and the stock saddle, much better than the FLSTF for me.
Here's my ride being delivered to the dealer last week:
Black is good.
Peter
#1542
#1544
#1545
holy crap!!! i dont know about this and it hasnt happened to me but i would guess that you crossed some wire somewhere and voltage is being applied to the starter switch circuit when you apply voltage to the "run" circuit by flipping the switch. if i was you i would open that housing and put a meter on the start switch hot wire and a gorund and flip the "run" switch, if you see voltage that might be the problem.
Yeah I checked the starter switch and it is functioning properly. It has to be somewhere else. I thought I might have pinched the wires when re-installing the right handlebar switch assembly, but after removing the black wire sheathing in what visually looked like a pinched spot, it all was fine underneath it. I also tried to start it again after I relieved the pressure from clamping the switch assembly down, and it still tried to start. I am coming up at a loss for where to look outside of this circuit. I didnt "F" with too much else other than the instrument console disassembly/reassembly and adding a fuel controller. It can't be the fuel controller... all it does is bypass the fuel injectors and O2 sensors. hmm maybe I pinched something in the front electrical caddy?
#1546
Yeah I checked the starter switch and it is functioning properly. It has to be somewhere else. I thought I might have pinched the wires when re-installing the right handlebar switch assembly, but after removing the black wire sheathing in what visually looked like a pinched spot, it all was fine underneath it. I also tried to start it again after I relieved the pressure from clamping the switch assembly down, and it still tried to start. I am coming up at a loss for where to look outside of this circuit. I didnt "F" with too much else other than the instrument console disassembly/reassembly and adding a fuel controller. It can't be the fuel controller... all it does is bypass the fuel injectors and O2 sensors. hmm maybe I pinched something in the front electrical caddy?
Last edited by Pyron; 03-13-2011 at 07:03 PM.
#1547
EDIT: The test that I did was to test each side of the starter switch. One side of the starter lit the test light as soon as I flipped the on/off switch. The other line lit only after I depressed the starter switch. If there's a short it isn't in the switch itself. Basically Power into run switch on gray tests "on" as soon as ingition switch is on. Power comes out of run switch on blk/wht and into start switch on blk/wht. It also goes all the way back to the system relay on blk/wht. With ignition on and run switch on power goes to start switch, but does not come out on blk/red. Blk/red goes to the starter relay, and with no power present the bike is trying to start at this point. With the bike trying to start, I depress the start switch, and power comes through on blk/red like it should.
Some things that happened through working on the bike:
-40amp fuse pulled and replaced a few times
-fuel pump fuse removed and replaced to pull the gas tank
-rerouted handlebar switching through new street slammer handlebars by removing the terminals from the plugs (did not cut and solder).
-took apart instrument console and removed main wiring harness to have console powdercoated.
hmm an afterthought.... this is my first Harley. At what point does the fuel pump kick on? Does the fuel pump prime as soon as you turn the ignition switch on or when you turn the run switch on? I do not hear the fuel pump priming as I turn the ignition switch on and can't hear it when I turn the run switch on since the bike is trying to start. (Yes I did all of this work to the bike with only 14 miles on it heh heh)
Last edited by ThePinger; 03-13-2011 at 09:09 PM.