Calling all FatBoy Lo Owners
05-25-2014, 06:56 AM
(These are the KITS)
From the catalog (which is downloadable from their site):
Backing Plate / Part Number
Plain / 18-505
Chrome (standard Filter) / 18-507
Black (standard Filter) / 18-561
Chrome (Stainless filter) / 18-515
Black (Stainless filter ) / 18-571
(For the filter by itself)
Stainless / 18-084
Standard Big Sucker / 18-098
note The standard big sucker filter is a K&N HD-0800 .. you can save $10 by buying the filter from K&N rather than Ness.
05-25-2014, 01:53 PM
Anyone try the Bikers Friend luggage without a sissy bar or rack on their lo? They make a suction cup fender rest to keep from scratching the fender. Thinking of doing some overnight trips this year. Don't need much, but the swing arm bag probably won't cut it. Thanks (any other opinions welcome)
Hog rally this week in Cookeville TN looking forward to some great rides.
05-26-2014, 07:53 PM
anyone have a service manual for the 2010? i gotta figure out how to get the fork tubes apart and springs out to put in the progressive drop-in kit and i'm having a hell of a time figuring it out. i don't want to have to take the forks off the bike to do the job, and i'm told that's not necessary. gotta get my hands on one of those manuals, but for now, i'd like to not have my bike on the lift so i can RIDE! (and post pictures of course)
05-27-2014, 06:25 AM
anyone have a service manual for the 2010? i gotta figure out how to get the fork tubes apart and springs out to put in the progressive drop-in kit and i'm having a hell of a time figuring it out. i don't want to have to take the forks off the bike to do the job, and i'm told that's not necessary. gotta get my hands on one of those manuals, but for now, i'd like to not have my bike on the lift so i can RIDE! (and post pictures of course)
But yeah, definitely get your hands on one of those manuals
(there are cheaper places out there)
05-27-2014, 06:41 AM
Tourer
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/11699205-post10360.html
Okay... Removing the forks:
When you get some of the pressure off the front tire (meaning put the bike on your lift), but not so high that the tire is off the ground..so barely touching....KEEP THE REAR TIRE ON THE GROUND
remove the fender (2 bolts/nuts on either side),
unbolt the brake caliper from the bike.. they say to remove it completely, but that means draining the brakes then bleeding them..blah blah blah.. look.. take a piece of cardboard and shove it between the brake pads, that way if someone hits the lever by accident, the brakes won't lock open.. just take a piece of string and tie the caliper to your handlebars or to the A-frame of the bike and it'll be out of the way
loosen up the axle nuts (but don't remove them yet),
loosen up the 4 bolts (two on either side) on the bottom of the forks..
once those are loose, then you can remove the axle nut and slide the axle out. (there is grease/never-seeze on the axle, so it's messy, have some paper towels ready)
...once you slide the axle out, you'll see why i said keep the rear tire on the ground..because the bike will want to flip backwards since you're taking the weight of the front tire off.
okay, axle is out, roll the front tire out from between the forks and put that aside.
there are 2 pinch bolts on the lower triple tree which is hidden behind the "headlight shroud"..that metal crap. So..you can either remove the headlight completely, or if you have a combination wrench, you can remove just the back parts and side parts (the 4 bolts[2 on either side] of the forks, and i think 3? torx bolts on the back), and the front will be able to be pulled far enough out to get at those bolts..you can loosen those up, the pinch bolts don't need to be completely removed
once those are loosened, all that's holding the forks in place are the top fill nuts on the top of the triple trees.. get yourself a plumbers wrench or something and loosen those up (they're not that tight) with one hand, and hold on to the forks and they'll drop right out.
The braided metal gasket should be your exhaust gaskets. They're cheap from the dealer. I always say "Replace gaskets every time"..its just a piece of mind thing, though I've gotten away with reusing the stock gaskets a few times since they only had a few hundred miles on them. so it's up to you
I've never had any experience with Parkerizing anything, though if they do it to guns without issues, I don't see why it wouldn't work for bolts.. though if they could just do it to the bolt heads and leave the threads alone, i think you'd be better off.
And my shifter **** is actually a Kuryakyn ISO piece that i truck-bed-lined wrinkle black, since they don't offer them in black. It matches my grips. The bolt that holds it on I also truck-bed-lined black.
When you get some of the pressure off the front tire (meaning put the bike on your lift), but not so high that the tire is off the ground..so barely touching....KEEP THE REAR TIRE ON THE GROUND
remove the fender (2 bolts/nuts on either side),
unbolt the brake caliper from the bike.. they say to remove it completely, but that means draining the brakes then bleeding them..blah blah blah.. look.. take a piece of cardboard and shove it between the brake pads, that way if someone hits the lever by accident, the brakes won't lock open.. just take a piece of string and tie the caliper to your handlebars or to the A-frame of the bike and it'll be out of the way
loosen up the axle nuts (but don't remove them yet),
loosen up the 4 bolts (two on either side) on the bottom of the forks..
once those are loose, then you can remove the axle nut and slide the axle out. (there is grease/never-seeze on the axle, so it's messy, have some paper towels ready)
...once you slide the axle out, you'll see why i said keep the rear tire on the ground..because the bike will want to flip backwards since you're taking the weight of the front tire off.
okay, axle is out, roll the front tire out from between the forks and put that aside.
there are 2 pinch bolts on the lower triple tree which is hidden behind the "headlight shroud"..that metal crap. So..you can either remove the headlight completely, or if you have a combination wrench, you can remove just the back parts and side parts (the 4 bolts[2 on either side] of the forks, and i think 3? torx bolts on the back), and the front will be able to be pulled far enough out to get at those bolts..you can loosen those up, the pinch bolts don't need to be completely removed
once those are loosened, all that's holding the forks in place are the top fill nuts on the top of the triple trees.. get yourself a plumbers wrench or something and loosen those up (they're not that tight) with one hand, and hold on to the forks and they'll drop right out.
The braided metal gasket should be your exhaust gaskets. They're cheap from the dealer. I always say "Replace gaskets every time"..its just a piece of mind thing, though I've gotten away with reusing the stock gaskets a few times since they only had a few hundred miles on them. so it's up to you
I've never had any experience with Parkerizing anything, though if they do it to guns without issues, I don't see why it wouldn't work for bolts.. though if they could just do it to the bolt heads and leave the threads alone, i think you'd be better off.
And my shifter **** is actually a Kuryakyn ISO piece that i truck-bed-lined wrinkle black, since they don't offer them in black. It matches my grips. The bolt that holds it on I also truck-bed-lined black.
05-27-2014, 06:46 AM
there you go...
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/11699205-post10360.html
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/11699205-post10360.html
05-27-2014, 08:23 AM
Cruiser
05-27-2014, 08:56 AM
Elite HDF Member
Works great for Sporties and Dyna's. But on our bikes you can not pull the springs out unless you drop the forks some. The forks have a top cap and then the fork tube plug that needs to be removed that is below the triple tree. Below image may help.
