There can be problems. if its offset one side or another the belt will 'chaf' at the edge of the pully on the nubs of the belt. You'll notice that when you check your belt. Also since the caliper is attached to the swing arm excessive misalignment of the wheel will cause the pads to rub on the rotor.
Proper alignment sans a laser is to measure from the center of the swing arm bolt to center of axle bolt both sides to a tolerance of 1/32 of an inch.
tourge axle bolt nut to 60ftlbs, tighten axle adjust bolts to hand tight and recheck measurement. If alls good tourge to final 105ftlbs on nut side only. Do not tourge bolt.
If you can't find a 36MM socket in 1/2 inch drive O'Riellys has them or can order.
also look at your tread. Dunlops are a dead give away. Look at the snipe that runs toward the center of the tire. Is the end deeper than the one on the other side? A thread depth gauge will tell you. That occurs because the point of contact for the tire is not centered and is wearing on one edge more then the other.
Good luck and ride safe.

 

This is normal on all of the 00-05 bikes. The 06 and newer were corrected. Also, the Deuces were centered. If you would like to fix this, its a fairly easy fix. If you do a little research on my previous posts, I had posted a fair amount of info about it. All it really requires is a new left side wheel spacer and a little grinding on the brake caliper. I went to a 160 rear tire with a Deuce wheel so while I was at it, I centered mine. I also plan to go to a 170 next summer. Right now my tire is perfectly centered on the fender. I have a few pics in my album as well.

 

I just did a search on your posts however wasn't able to find anything detailing exactly what is involved in this mod (sorry if I missed it).

If you have a link to more info on how this mod is done (spacer swap, caliper grinding, etc.) I would appreciate it. This is something I am interested in doing ASAP.

Thanks!

 

My 06 was not centered. Lat summer it actually rubbed against the tire. Loosened fender strut bolts, pulled fender center, tighten bolts... tried several times, could not get the thing to stay centered. So - I reached under the fender at mid pint and a little rear of that and yanked the sheit out of it with both hands, bracing my knee against the swing arm to keep the bike from falling over and get better leverage. Did this many times, I mean a lot!! Its only about ~ 1/8" off now

 

Ok. I thought I had posted a little more detailed information about this somewhere but oh well.
Here is the like to some pictures and info from right after I did the swap:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softa...cessories.html

I used a universal 2" chrome spacer from either DK or JP. on the left side of the wheel. This moved the wheel over to the right about 1/8". On the right side of the wheel, I had to use the stock spacer between the wheel and the rotor. The reason this must be done is if you try using a smaller spacer, then the orientation of the rotor in the caliper will be off. So, since I had added 1/8" over on the left side, I had to lose it somewhere. So, I had to machine the caliper 1/8" on the surface that meets the frame, as well as the channel that is towards the front that locks the caliper to the frame. The brake caliper is very thick at this area, so you have nothing to worry about weakening it. It is made out of aluminum, so it is pretty easy to grind. May have only taken me about a half hour or so to do the actual grinding. I didnt really want to have to deal with bleading the brakes if I disconnected the caliper.

When using the billet sprockets, HD refers you to use some mounting plate to go with the Deuce wheel. I ordered that, but it came in a some random rubber thing that wasnt going to do anything, so dont waste your money on it. Its not necessary. I did use a think little sheetmetal plate to cover up the holes in side of the wheel that the sprocket doesnt cover. The dealer had it sitting on the shop and just gave it to me.

I hope this gives you enough info to do the swap. It was really a pretty easy conversion. If you have any questions, feel free to PM me.

 

I looked at the way the rear caliper is situated and see exactly what you are talking about. Looks like it needs to be machined off perfectly flat though or could result in alignment problems with the rotor. Pretty easy, just looks like you need to take your time and check your progress with a lot of intermittent fitting. I will probably bleed out the rear caliper and remove it entirely to make the metal removal a bit easier. I'll check on J&P for the correct 2" spacer you mention above and anything else I might need.

I just put a Avon 150 on the rear so I'm not going to be needing a new tire for a while. But I definitely want to do this before then as I want to go with a 160 or even 170'ish next time. Probably bite the bullet and get to it around Spring. I'll post a follow-up with pics afterwards for anybody else interested in this mod.

Thanks for the info, cleared things up a lot. I may be pinging you on it in a couple months

 

+1 ,

Did the same to my bike, kept belt, bully everything stock on my 01 and centered the tire, put the Dunlop 150 (which is as fat as the Metz 160) and the bike looks perfect.

I did flip the strut bolts just to be safe.

 

Not having a perfectly smooth surface on that caliper is not a big deal. The axle keeps the alignment, so all that really matters is the highest point from where you grind. I just disconnected the little hose tie downs so i had over a foot of loose hose to work with. I used some masking tape and used that to mask off a line at the exact 1/8" I had to take off. The frame knotch was a bit of a pain in the ****.

I should be able to continue to check the forums and email. It all depends on if the presidents new plan ends up effecting us or not. (I am really hoping to just stay in Iraq...)