4 in crank or stock 4.375 ?
#12
07-31-2009, 08:27 AM
Outstanding HDF Member
I would really like to go with the 4 inch crank and the axtell 114 kit but it's going to cost a lot more than going with the axtell 117 with my own crank! Is the wear and tear with the 4 3/8 crank really that bad! Also nobody has told me what it will take to modify or adapt the 4 inch crank. In other words i know it's not a straight bolt in unit. I want to know because it will help me determine which way i go with my build. My 106 kit i can sell on ebay or craigslist so no worries there.I have 4500 now to spend and another 2500 by early spring for a total of 7 grand to work with.My shopping list goes like this t-man heads,t-man 590 gear cams,s&s gear drive conversion,hpi 51mm throttle body,fueling cam plate,fueling oil pump,s&s roller rocker arms,woods rocker arm support,d&d fatcat big bore qt and dark horse work with timken/case bore.If you guys can think of any thing else please do tell.
#13
07-31-2009, 10:42 AM
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beaureed445, The guys at my work tell me gear driven cams are better and they do all their own builds granted they all have evo's. Also it's been said the gear cams hold up better! If anyone of you think the fueling pump and cam plate are over kill let me know. Besides if i go gear cams i believe the cam plate has to be changed out for that set up? Both chaz and gunnie recommend the fueling via private message. On my part it's piece of mind that my bike has the best components to support the power and abuse because i ride like i stole it.I'm spending a lot of $$$ and only want to do once. I'm a workout freak so chasing power is in my nature. Gunnie has the #'s i want !!!
As for the fuel managment i currently have the power commander but will go with the thundermax at a later date. I think if i go with the 114 build the fatcat big bore should be okay as i care moe about low end response over top end.I care about dyno #'s but not as much as butt dyno.
As for the fuel managment i currently have the power commander but will go with the thundermax at a later date. I think if i go with the 114 build the fatcat big bore should be okay as i care moe about low end response over top end.I care about dyno #'s but not as much as butt dyno.
#14
07-31-2009, 10:48 AM
The most important thing is to shore up the bottom end, bib bore kit and headwork. The stock cast cam plate can be used in a gear drive conversion, the stock oil pump can also do the job if you need to watch your budget to start. Even the stock TB and injectors will probably do fine to start as well. These things are very easy to upgrade IF you dont have the money to purchase right away. Its real easy getting into the cam chest or swapping out a throttlebody or ECM. It isnt a quick job though taking out your engine and splitting the case to redo the bottom end.
Telling ya, go find yourself a used 4" forged(02' and earlier if forged)or cast crank, put the money in the bottom end, bore kit and heads and work from there.
WHen it comes to to the TB, I am going to recommend a different route. Forget the single split runner HPI's and go with a BC Heads dual runner 50mm unit. A much better match by far.
Telling ya, go find yourself a used 4" forged(02' and earlier if forged)or cast crank, put the money in the bottom end, bore kit and heads and work from there.
WHen it comes to to the TB, I am going to recommend a different route. Forget the single split runner HPI's and go with a BC Heads dual runner 50mm unit. A much better match by far.
#15
07-31-2009, 04:15 PM
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The most important thing is to shore up the bottom end, bib bore kit and headwork. The stock cast cam plate can be used in a gear drive conversion, the stock oil pump can also do the job if you need to watch your budget to start. Even the stock TB and injectors will probably do fine to start as well. These things are very easy to upgrade IF you dont have the money to purchase right away. Its real easy getting into the cam chest or swapping out a throttlebody or ECM. It isnt a quick job though taking out your engine and splitting the case to redo the bottom end.
Telling ya, go find yourself a used 4" forged(02' and earlier if forged)or cast crank, put the money in the bottom end, bore kit and heads and work from there.
WHen it comes to to the TB, I am going to recommend a different route. Forget the single split runner HPI's and go with a BC Heads dual runner 50mm unit. A much better match by far.
Telling ya, go find yourself a used 4" forged(02' and earlier if forged)or cast crank, put the money in the bottom end, bore kit and heads and work from there.
WHen it comes to to the TB, I am going to recommend a different route. Forget the single split runner HPI's and go with a BC Heads dual runner 50mm unit. A much better match by far.
#16
07-31-2009, 05:24 PM
As for the BC Gerolomy dual independant runner 50mm TB. It has soooooo many advantages.
A. You dont need a honking high inlet bore because you dont have to worry about the overlap between the cylinders(there is a point where BOTH cylinders will try to intake air at the same time/ aka OVERLAP), the dual independant runners ONLY feed air to their respective cylinder without any affect from the other cylinder or the cam profile itself(basically each cylinder in the engine acts independantly of each other).
B. Since each cylinder only draws from one runner, you can keep the bore smaller increasing air velocity for low end charge.
C. You also now dont need to necessarily get bigger injectors as all the fuel intended for one cylinder actually goes to that cylinder.
D. Tuning is now so much easier and is more accurate because again, the cams overlap doesnt affect the intake charge like it does on a single split intake runner.
So the BCheads TB is literally a gem in itself. It works so well, even on the bigger dispacement engines. You will absolutely fall in love with it. Plus all your stock components and sensors bolt right up to it with no modifications.
#17
07-31-2009, 05:32 PM
R.I.P. BROTHER
#18
08-01-2009, 10:10 AM
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I see used 4" forged and cast twin cam B cranks on Ebay all the time for around $2-400. You dont really need to worry about the overall condition(as long as its obvious it wasnt grenaded)as your going to be sending it out to Darkhorse where they are going to basically go through the whole thing for you by plugging, welding and truing. So if you can find an 02' or earlier forged, then great, if all you can find is a cheaper 03' or later cast crank, that will be just fine too. Id honestly just look for the cheapest 4" twin cam B crank you can find to keep budget down, cuz once its been reworked its gonna be rock solid and ready to take all you can throw at it.
As for the BC Gerolomy dual independant runner 50mm TB. It has soooooo many advantages.
A. You dont need a honking high inlet bore because you dont have to worry about the overlap between the cylinders(there is a point where BOTH cylinders will try to intake air at the same time/ aka OVERLAP), the dual independant runners ONLY feed air to their respective cylinder without any affect from the other cylinder or the cam profile itself(basically each cylinder in the engine acts independantly of each other).
B. Since each cylinder only draws from one runner, you can keep the bore smaller increasing air velocity for low end charge.
C. You also now dont need to necessarily get bigger injectors as all the fuel intended for one cylinder actually goes to that cylinder.
D. Tuning is now so much easier and is more accurate because again, the cams overlap doesnt affect the intake charge like it does on a single split intake runner.
So the BCheads TB is literally a gem in itself. It works so well, even on the bigger dispacement engines. You will absolutely fall in love with it. Plus all your stock components and sensors bolt right up to it with no modifications.
As for the BC Gerolomy dual independant runner 50mm TB. It has soooooo many advantages.
A. You dont need a honking high inlet bore because you dont have to worry about the overlap between the cylinders(there is a point where BOTH cylinders will try to intake air at the same time/ aka OVERLAP), the dual independant runners ONLY feed air to their respective cylinder without any affect from the other cylinder or the cam profile itself(basically each cylinder in the engine acts independantly of each other).
B. Since each cylinder only draws from one runner, you can keep the bore smaller increasing air velocity for low end charge.
C. You also now dont need to necessarily get bigger injectors as all the fuel intended for one cylinder actually goes to that cylinder.
D. Tuning is now so much easier and is more accurate because again, the cams overlap doesnt affect the intake charge like it does on a single split intake runner.
So the BCheads TB is literally a gem in itself. It works so well, even on the bigger dispacement engines. You will absolutely fall in love with it. Plus all your stock components and sensors bolt right up to it with no modifications.
#20
08-01-2009, 10:50 AM