Vibrating Issue
#1
06-18-2009, 09:41 AM
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 389
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vibrating Issue
Lately I have been having vibration issues with my bike. The vibrating is pretty bad when I ‘honk’ on the throttle. I don't beat the sh&t out of my bike, but I certainly am not tame with it.
I will give you all some background info on maybe why this is happening.
Back in April I put on a set of Rush 2.0” slip-ons without any other modifications. (Stock filter and not ECM system) After a month or so I noticed my bike was not performing like it should. Popping on decel, loss of TQ, poor gas mileage and the engine got hotter.
I posted my concerns on the forum when this was happening and you guys said that the bike is running to rich or to lean. Well it turns out it was to rich. Black smoke would come out of the pipes when I gave it some throttle.
So I decided to go back to my stock exhaust hoping things would get better. My TQ has increased slightly and so has my gas mileage, but now when I am in the high RPM’s in 3rd, 4th and 5th gears, it lugs and vibrates something fierce. Also, the engine temps don’t seem to be coming down.
1. Is all of this because I had the Rush pipes on there with nothing else?
2. Do I need to get my bike dyno'd or reset to factory settings?
3. Would XIED’s be of any benefit to me?
I don’t have a lot of cash right now to do anything. I would love to put a TTS Autotune or PCV and SEST or anything, but that is not really an option for me right now.
Any help guys would be appreciated. It’s getting to the point where I am getting nervous to ride it because it runs so poorly.
Thanks in advance
I will give you all some background info on maybe why this is happening.
Back in April I put on a set of Rush 2.0” slip-ons without any other modifications. (Stock filter and not ECM system) After a month or so I noticed my bike was not performing like it should. Popping on decel, loss of TQ, poor gas mileage and the engine got hotter.
I posted my concerns on the forum when this was happening and you guys said that the bike is running to rich or to lean. Well it turns out it was to rich. Black smoke would come out of the pipes when I gave it some throttle.
So I decided to go back to my stock exhaust hoping things would get better. My TQ has increased slightly and so has my gas mileage, but now when I am in the high RPM’s in 3rd, 4th and 5th gears, it lugs and vibrates something fierce. Also, the engine temps don’t seem to be coming down.
1. Is all of this because I had the Rush pipes on there with nothing else?
2. Do I need to get my bike dyno'd or reset to factory settings?
3. Would XIED’s be of any benefit to me?
I don’t have a lot of cash right now to do anything. I would love to put a TTS Autotune or PCV and SEST or anything, but that is not really an option for me right now.
Any help guys would be appreciated. It’s getting to the point where I am getting nervous to ride it because it runs so poorly.
Thanks in advance
#2
06-18-2009, 10:04 AM
Ultimate HDF Member
I've read that it takes the ecm 200mi or so to recalibrate after changes. Don't know if that's true or not but I never had any adjustment issues when I took my Rush 1.75s off for my roadtrip to Canada. Bike ran fine uphills and all. 50 miles per gallon on some legs.
I would suspect you may have a problem totally unrelated to the slipons so the answer to all 3 of your questions is No. As I recall the bike ran fine for some time after you initially put them on which points to something else imo. Misfiring or starved for fuel. Still under warranty?. Were it me I think I'd clean up or replace the plugs, run it for a couple hundred miles and if it doesn't get any better, take it in to the dealer for a check.
Might want to check for any diagnositic codes. I don't know how to do it myself but I remember someone posted the procedure here sometime ago.
Bottom line, bike should be running fine w or w/o those slipons.
________________________________
2008 Heritage Classic: His
2008 Deluxe: Hers
I would suspect you may have a problem totally unrelated to the slipons so the answer to all 3 of your questions is No. As I recall the bike ran fine for some time after you initially put them on which points to something else imo. Misfiring or starved for fuel. Still under warranty?. Were it me I think I'd clean up or replace the plugs, run it for a couple hundred miles and if it doesn't get any better, take it in to the dealer for a check.
Might want to check for any diagnositic codes. I don't know how to do it myself but I remember someone posted the procedure here sometime ago.
Bottom line, bike should be running fine w or w/o those slipons.
________________________________
2008 Heritage Classic: His
2008 Deluxe: Hers
Last edited by jimmers1817; 06-18-2009 at 10:09 AM.
#3
06-18-2009, 10:40 AM
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 389
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey Jim, Thats what I am starting to think. That it is a problem completely unrelated. I probably have 150 or so miles on it now so I will give it another good ride and we'll see what happens. I can't see how slip on mufflers could make a bike act up that much.
You bet it's under warranty. Thank God for that. I just won't tell them that there was aftermarket pipes on there.
Thanks
You bet it's under warranty. Thank God for that. I just won't tell them that there was aftermarket pipes on there.
Thanks
#4
06-18-2009, 10:43 AM
Sponsor
#5
06-18-2009, 10:53 AM
R.I.P. BROTHER
Nova you have an issue there.
First off is the bike no longer on any type of warranty?
Secondly can you pull both the plugs look at em' and even snap a photo and post it?
You more than likely have a fuel air mix issue going on and could have a bad sensor....There are several. Crank,Map,Intake,Idle,Throttle, VSS, and on your newer model the exhuast as well.
Run the self diagnostic and see what codes if any pop up:
Here's the listing of the diagnostic trouble codes (DTC codes). Some are similar to the 07 and previous years but there are some new codes too. Some even cross over into the 07 bikes and are not listed for the 07 bikes.
The IM (instrument module) is capable of displaying DTC's (diagnostic trouble codes).
Speedometer Self Diagnostics: The speedometer is capable of displaying and clearing speedometer, tachometer, TSM/TSSM and ICM/ECM Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC).
1- Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.
2- Push odometer reset button in & hold.
3- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting sould illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word “diag” should then appear.
4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPt" with the first P flashing.
5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.)
P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module [EFI] / Ignition Control Module [Carbureted])
S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module)
SP = speedometer
T = tachometer
6 - To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC’s the code will be displayed or the word “none” will appear if there are no DTC’s. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.
7 - Record the codes.
8 - If DTC’s are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed.
NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC’s again by repeating steps 1 to 9. If the code is current it will reappear.
9 – Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.
10 – Turn Ignition switch to OFF.
On models not equipped with a tachometer "No Rsp" will appear when the tachometer identifier is selected.
"No Rsp" (no response) will also appear if the run/off switch is in the off position when doing this procedure.
--------------------------
HFSM = Hands Free Security Module
TSM = Turn signal module
Priority/DTC/Fault condition
1. P0605 ECM FLASH Memory Error
2. P0603 ECM EEPROM Memory Error
3. U1300 ECM Serial Data Low
4. U1301 ECM Serial Data High
5. U1097 Loss of Speedometer Serial Data to ECM
6. U1064 Loss of TSM/FSFM Serial Data to ECM
7. P1003 System relay contacts open
8. P1002 System Relay Coil High/Shorted
9. P1001 System Relay Coil Open/Low
10. P1004 System Relay Contacts Closed
11. P1009 Incorrect Password
12. P1010 Missing Password
13. P06415 V+Vref 1 Out Of Range
14. P06515 V+Vref 2 Out Of Range
15. P0373 CKP Sensor Intermittent
16. P0107 Map Sensor Open/Low
17. P0108 Map Sensor High
18. P0374 CKP Sensor Synch Error
19. P1511 Throttle actuator control power management failure of throttle control actuator
20. P1600 EFI Module Processor Internal Error
21. P1270 TGS Validation Error
22. P2107 EFI Module Processor Internal Fault
23. P2101 throttle actuator control motor circuit range/performace error
24. P2122 TGS1 Low/Open
25. P2123 TGS1 High
26. P2127 TGS2 Low/Open
27. P2128 TGS2 High
28. P2138 TGS Correlation Error (Twist grip sensor)
29. P0120 TPS1 Range Error
30. P0220 TPS2 Range Error
31. P0122 TPS1 Low
32. P0123 TPS2 High/Open
33. P0222 TPS2 Low
34. P0223 TPS2 High/Open
35. P2135 TPS Correlation Error
36. P2119 EFI Motor Throttle Body Range Performance
37. P2100 EFI Motor Circuit Open
38. P2101 EFI Motor Circuit Range Performance (Actuation Error)
39. P2102 EFI Motor Circuit Low
40. P2103 EFI Motor Circuit High
41. P2176 EFI Closed Position Not Learned
42. P1514 Air Flow Fault
43. P2105 EFI Forced engine shutdown
44. P1501 Jiffy Stand Sensor Low
45. P1502 Jiffy Stand Sensor High
46. P0572 Brake Switch Low
47. P0117 ET Sensor Low
48. P0118 ET Sensor High
49. P0112I AT Voltage Low
50. P0113I AT Voltage Open/High
51. P1351 Front Ignition Coil Driver Open/Low
52. P1354 Rear Ignition Coil Driver Open/Low
53. P1352 Front Ignition Coil Driver High/Shorted
54. P1355 Rear Ignition Coil Driver High/Shorted
55. P1357 Front Cylinder Combustion Intermittent
56. P1358 Rear Cylinder Combustion Intermittent
57. P0261 Front Injector Open/Low
58. P0263 Rear Injector Open/Low
59. P0262 Front Injector High
60. P0264 Rear Injector High
61. P0562 Battery Voltage Low
62. P0563 Battery Voltage High
63. P0501 VSS Sensor Low
64. P0502 VSS Sensor High/Open..
65. P1356 Rear Cylinder No Combustion
66. P1353 Front Cylnder No Combustion
67. P0444 Purge Solenoid Open/Low
68. P0445 Purge Solenoid High
69. P1475 Exhaust Actuation Position Error
70. P1477 Exhaust Actuator Open/Low
71. P1478 Exhaust Actuator Shorted/High
72. P0131 Front Oxygen Sensor Low
73. P0151 Rear Oxygen Sensor Low
74. P0132 Front Oxygen Sensor High
75. P0152 Rear Oxygen Sensor High
76. P0134 Front Oxygen Sensor Inactive
77. P0154 Rear Oxygen Sensor Inactive.
78. P1510 EFI Limited Performance Mode
79. P1511 EFI Power Management Mode
80. P1512 EFI Forced Idle Mode
81. P0577 Cruise Control Input High
Priority/DTC/Fault condition
HFSM = Hands Free Security Module
TSM = Turn signal module
1. U1300 Serial Data Low
2. U1301 Serial Data High
3. U1016 Loss of ECM Serial Data
4. U1255 Serial Data Error
5. B1142 Smart Security System Internal Fault
6. B1135 Accelerometer Failed
7. B1136(HFSM) Accelerometer Tip Test Error
8. B1151 Bank Angle Sensor(BAS) Short to Ground
9. B1152 Bank Angle Sensor(BAS) Short to Battery
10. B1153 Bank Angle Sensor(BAS) High
11. B1154 Clutch Switch Input Short to Ground
12. B1155 Neutral Switch Input Short to Battery
13. B1134 Starter Output High
14. B1121(TSM) Left Turn Output Fault
B1121(HFSM) Left Turn Output Open
15. B1122(TSM) Right Turn Output Fault
B1122(HFSM) Right Turn Output Open
16. B1123(HFSM) Left Turn Output Short to Ground
17. B1124(HFSM) Right Turn Output Short to Ground
18. B1125(HFSM) Left Turn Output Short to Battery
19. B1126(HFSM) Right Turn Output Short to Battery
20. B1143(HFSM) Security Antenna Short to Ground
21. B1144(HFSM) Security Antenna Short to Battery
22. B1145(HFSM) Security Antenna Open
23. B0563 Battery Voltage High.
24. B1131(HFSM) Alarm Output Low
25. B1132(HFSM) Alarm Output High
26. B1141(TSM) Ignition Switch Low/Open
B1141(HFSM) Ignition Switch Low/Open
The following came from the ABS section of the 2008 Electrical Diagnostics manual- hopefully close enough until something better comes available...
C0562 Device voltage low
C0563 System voltage high
C1014 ECU internal fault
C1017 Pump motor power circuit open fault
C1018 Pump motor ground high resistance fault
C1021 Front wheel speed sensor equals 0
C1023 Rear wheel speed sensor equals 0
C1025 Front wheel speed signal intermittent
C1027 Rear wheel speed signal intermittent
C1032 Front wheel speed sensor circuit open or shorted
C1034 Rear wheel speed sensor circuit open or shorted
C1042 Pump motor open
C1043 Pump motor stalled
C1055 ECU internal fault
C1056 ECU internal fault
C1057 ECU internal fault
C1061 ECU internal fault
C1062 ECU internal fault
C1065 ECU internal fault
C1066 ECU internal fault
C1094 Front brake switch always on
C1095 Front brake switch open
C1118 ECU internal fault
C1121 ECU internal fault
C1151 Front wheel release too long
C1153 Rear wheel release too long
C1158 Calibration programming required
C1206 Wheel speed sensor frequency out of range
C1208 Wheel speed sensor frequency out of range
C1212 Front or rear brake not applied with decel
C1214 Rear brake switch always on
C1216 Rear brake switch open
U1300 Serial data low
U1301 Serial data open/high
First off is the bike no longer on any type of warranty?
Secondly can you pull both the plugs look at em' and even snap a photo and post it?
You more than likely have a fuel air mix issue going on and could have a bad sensor....There are several. Crank,Map,Intake,Idle,Throttle, VSS, and on your newer model the exhuast as well.
Run the self diagnostic and see what codes if any pop up:
Here's the listing of the diagnostic trouble codes (DTC codes). Some are similar to the 07 and previous years but there are some new codes too. Some even cross over into the 07 bikes and are not listed for the 07 bikes.
The IM (instrument module) is capable of displaying DTC's (diagnostic trouble codes).
Speedometer Self Diagnostics: The speedometer is capable of displaying and clearing speedometer, tachometer, TSM/TSSM and ICM/ECM Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC).
1- Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.
2- Push odometer reset button in & hold.
3- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting sould illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word “diag” should then appear.
4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPt" with the first P flashing.
5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.)
P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module [EFI] / Ignition Control Module [Carbureted])
S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module)
SP = speedometer
T = tachometer
6 - To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC’s the code will be displayed or the word “none” will appear if there are no DTC’s. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.
7 - Record the codes.
8 - If DTC’s are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed.
NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC’s again by repeating steps 1 to 9. If the code is current it will reappear.
9 – Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.
10 – Turn Ignition switch to OFF.
On models not equipped with a tachometer "No Rsp" will appear when the tachometer identifier is selected.
"No Rsp" (no response) will also appear if the run/off switch is in the off position when doing this procedure.
--------------------------
HFSM = Hands Free Security Module
TSM = Turn signal module
Priority/DTC/Fault condition
1. P0605 ECM FLASH Memory Error
2. P0603 ECM EEPROM Memory Error
3. U1300 ECM Serial Data Low
4. U1301 ECM Serial Data High
5. U1097 Loss of Speedometer Serial Data to ECM
6. U1064 Loss of TSM/FSFM Serial Data to ECM
7. P1003 System relay contacts open
8. P1002 System Relay Coil High/Shorted
9. P1001 System Relay Coil Open/Low
10. P1004 System Relay Contacts Closed
11. P1009 Incorrect Password
12. P1010 Missing Password
13. P06415 V+Vref 1 Out Of Range
14. P06515 V+Vref 2 Out Of Range
15. P0373 CKP Sensor Intermittent
16. P0107 Map Sensor Open/Low
17. P0108 Map Sensor High
18. P0374 CKP Sensor Synch Error
19. P1511 Throttle actuator control power management failure of throttle control actuator
20. P1600 EFI Module Processor Internal Error
21. P1270 TGS Validation Error
22. P2107 EFI Module Processor Internal Fault
23. P2101 throttle actuator control motor circuit range/performace error
24. P2122 TGS1 Low/Open
25. P2123 TGS1 High
26. P2127 TGS2 Low/Open
27. P2128 TGS2 High
28. P2138 TGS Correlation Error (Twist grip sensor)
29. P0120 TPS1 Range Error
30. P0220 TPS2 Range Error
31. P0122 TPS1 Low
32. P0123 TPS2 High/Open
33. P0222 TPS2 Low
34. P0223 TPS2 High/Open
35. P2135 TPS Correlation Error
36. P2119 EFI Motor Throttle Body Range Performance
37. P2100 EFI Motor Circuit Open
38. P2101 EFI Motor Circuit Range Performance (Actuation Error)
39. P2102 EFI Motor Circuit Low
40. P2103 EFI Motor Circuit High
41. P2176 EFI Closed Position Not Learned
42. P1514 Air Flow Fault
43. P2105 EFI Forced engine shutdown
44. P1501 Jiffy Stand Sensor Low
45. P1502 Jiffy Stand Sensor High
46. P0572 Brake Switch Low
47. P0117 ET Sensor Low
48. P0118 ET Sensor High
49. P0112I AT Voltage Low
50. P0113I AT Voltage Open/High
51. P1351 Front Ignition Coil Driver Open/Low
52. P1354 Rear Ignition Coil Driver Open/Low
53. P1352 Front Ignition Coil Driver High/Shorted
54. P1355 Rear Ignition Coil Driver High/Shorted
55. P1357 Front Cylinder Combustion Intermittent
56. P1358 Rear Cylinder Combustion Intermittent
57. P0261 Front Injector Open/Low
58. P0263 Rear Injector Open/Low
59. P0262 Front Injector High
60. P0264 Rear Injector High
61. P0562 Battery Voltage Low
62. P0563 Battery Voltage High
63. P0501 VSS Sensor Low
64. P0502 VSS Sensor High/Open..
65. P1356 Rear Cylinder No Combustion
66. P1353 Front Cylnder No Combustion
67. P0444 Purge Solenoid Open/Low
68. P0445 Purge Solenoid High
69. P1475 Exhaust Actuation Position Error
70. P1477 Exhaust Actuator Open/Low
71. P1478 Exhaust Actuator Shorted/High
72. P0131 Front Oxygen Sensor Low
73. P0151 Rear Oxygen Sensor Low
74. P0132 Front Oxygen Sensor High
75. P0152 Rear Oxygen Sensor High
76. P0134 Front Oxygen Sensor Inactive
77. P0154 Rear Oxygen Sensor Inactive.
78. P1510 EFI Limited Performance Mode
79. P1511 EFI Power Management Mode
80. P1512 EFI Forced Idle Mode
81. P0577 Cruise Control Input High
Priority/DTC/Fault condition
HFSM = Hands Free Security Module
TSM = Turn signal module
1. U1300 Serial Data Low
2. U1301 Serial Data High
3. U1016 Loss of ECM Serial Data
4. U1255 Serial Data Error
5. B1142 Smart Security System Internal Fault
6. B1135 Accelerometer Failed
7. B1136(HFSM) Accelerometer Tip Test Error
8. B1151 Bank Angle Sensor(BAS) Short to Ground
9. B1152 Bank Angle Sensor(BAS) Short to Battery
10. B1153 Bank Angle Sensor(BAS) High
11. B1154 Clutch Switch Input Short to Ground
12. B1155 Neutral Switch Input Short to Battery
13. B1134 Starter Output High
14. B1121(TSM) Left Turn Output Fault
B1121(HFSM) Left Turn Output Open
15. B1122(TSM) Right Turn Output Fault
B1122(HFSM) Right Turn Output Open
16. B1123(HFSM) Left Turn Output Short to Ground
17. B1124(HFSM) Right Turn Output Short to Ground
18. B1125(HFSM) Left Turn Output Short to Battery
19. B1126(HFSM) Right Turn Output Short to Battery
20. B1143(HFSM) Security Antenna Short to Ground
21. B1144(HFSM) Security Antenna Short to Battery
22. B1145(HFSM) Security Antenna Open
23. B0563 Battery Voltage High.
24. B1131(HFSM) Alarm Output Low
25. B1132(HFSM) Alarm Output High
26. B1141(TSM) Ignition Switch Low/Open
B1141(HFSM) Ignition Switch Low/Open
The following came from the ABS section of the 2008 Electrical Diagnostics manual- hopefully close enough until something better comes available...
C0562 Device voltage low
C0563 System voltage high
C1014 ECU internal fault
C1017 Pump motor power circuit open fault
C1018 Pump motor ground high resistance fault
C1021 Front wheel speed sensor equals 0
C1023 Rear wheel speed sensor equals 0
C1025 Front wheel speed signal intermittent
C1027 Rear wheel speed signal intermittent
C1032 Front wheel speed sensor circuit open or shorted
C1034 Rear wheel speed sensor circuit open or shorted
C1042 Pump motor open
C1043 Pump motor stalled
C1055 ECU internal fault
C1056 ECU internal fault
C1057 ECU internal fault
C1061 ECU internal fault
C1062 ECU internal fault
C1065 ECU internal fault
C1066 ECU internal fault
C1094 Front brake switch always on
C1095 Front brake switch open
C1118 ECU internal fault
C1121 ECU internal fault
C1151 Front wheel release too long
C1153 Rear wheel release too long
C1158 Calibration programming required
C1206 Wheel speed sensor frequency out of range
C1208 Wheel speed sensor frequency out of range
C1212 Front or rear brake not applied with decel
C1214 Rear brake switch always on
C1216 Rear brake switch open
U1300 Serial data low
U1301 Serial data open/high
#6
06-18-2009, 11:22 AM
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 389
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey Chaz, THANKS A LOT!! This is one hell of a reply.
So if I have any of these error codes popping up on my dash, warranty will cover it?
I still have a warranty on the bike. Good for 2 years I think and it's been just over a year.
I will give this a try tonight and take some pictures of the plugs and post them here for you to look at. I haven't pulled the plugs lately buy something tells me they will be black and need to be A. replaced or B. cleaned up.
I smell a visit to the dealer this week!!
So if I have any of these error codes popping up on my dash, warranty will cover it?
I still have a warranty on the bike. Good for 2 years I think and it's been just over a year.
I will give this a try tonight and take some pictures of the plugs and post them here for you to look at. I haven't pulled the plugs lately buy something tells me they will be black and need to be A. replaced or B. cleaned up.
I smell a visit to the dealer this week!!
#7
06-18-2009, 11:32 AM
R.I.P. BROTHER
Hey Chaz, THANKS A LOT!! This is one hell of a reply.
So if I have any of these error codes popping up on my dash, warranty will cover it?
I still have a warranty on the bike. Good for 2 years I think and it's been just over a year.
I will give this a try tonight and take some pictures of the plugs and post them here for you to look at. I haven't pulled the plugs lately buy something tells me they will be black and need to be A. replaced or B. cleaned up.
I smell a visit to the dealer this week!!
So if I have any of these error codes popping up on my dash, warranty will cover it?
I still have a warranty on the bike. Good for 2 years I think and it's been just over a year.
I will give this a try tonight and take some pictures of the plugs and post them here for you to look at. I haven't pulled the plugs lately buy something tells me they will be black and need to be A. replaced or B. cleaned up.
I smell a visit to the dealer this week!!
I wouldnt even get my hands dirty on those plugs....
You back to stock pipes now correct? Your bike is in completely unmolestered bone stock form as it rolled off the showroom?
Check the codes...Tell us what pops up. Make an appt with the dealer. Much as you pay for a sweet new softy they need to make that bike right. On Moco's dime!
Trending Topics
#8
06-18-2009, 11:41 AM
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 389
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey Chaz, I don't think there is a deductible or any stupid sh*t like that.
And your right, they WILL be fixing it. My dealer is pretty good. They shouldn't give me a hard time.
Could these bad sensors over time really Fuvk up the engine?
BONE STOCK as she comes.
I will do this tonight and get back to you.
Are the Harley plugs good to use or are there better ones?
Also, need an oil change. What do you recommend for oil? I will doing this myself.
Ryan
And your right, they WILL be fixing it. My dealer is pretty good. They shouldn't give me a hard time.
Could these bad sensors over time really Fuvk up the engine?
BONE STOCK as she comes.
I will do this tonight and get back to you.
Are the Harley plugs good to use or are there better ones?
Also, need an oil change. What do you recommend for oil? I will doing this myself.
Ryan
#9
06-18-2009, 11:47 AM
Let us know what happens!! I also have a 2008 Anniversary Edition Softail Custom 358/2600 that I bought in September and so far I've had no problems with it except when I took it in to get the Stage one kit installed (Screaming Eagle intake, V&H Big Shots, and Screaming Eagle programmer) they did find out some of the bolts were loose including the front forks. Other than that she's running great except sometimes I get a backfire when shifting gears, and every once in a while I'll hear an exhaust pop at startup. I would take yours in to have it serviced, something is wrong. Oh, by the way a stage one kit made a big change on my Custom; more power and it doesn’t burn my leg off at idle, etc. The only down side was it cost me $1800 but it was worth every penny.
#10
06-18-2009, 11:49 AM
Codes are the easiest to check for as they involve minimal effort to check so I recommend starting there. However, they won't always give you the root cause as much as just giving you an indication of where to look.
Did you do the muffler install on your own? Whoever did the install, it's possible the head pipes were moved around enough to create leaks around the exhaust ports at the heads. That has the potential to effect performance. You might also look at O2 sensors and connectors. If one has come loose or isn't functioning that could also create some problems.
You didn't mention doing anything near the intake but that's another place where leaks can occur and kill performance. Might want to look at that as a possible cause if other areas yield nothing. You'll know if you have an intake leak if your head pipes are glowing hot and if you have performance degradation as the bike warms up. It may idle fine but it runs like crap at RPM. A way to check is start the bike and spray carb spray or starting fluid between the heads on the intake. Any surge or dip in the RPMs tells you there is an intake leak.
Your bike is fairly new and you said the only thing you did was change the mufflers. That should not have created the performance problems you describe on its own. Since the intake and ECM are stock, you are still only pulling in as much air as the stock AC will allow.
It is unlikely based on the year of your bike and the very limited engine modifications you have done (slip-ons only) that you have somehow developed some major system malfunction or failure. Odds are much more in your favor that you have a more simple explanation that is tied to the muffler installation.
Hard to answer a warranty "what if" question without knowing the nature of the problem. It boils down to what the problem is and if an aftermarket component or modification was the root cause of the problem. That's hard to say but I will submit that I have never heard of slip-on mufflers on a stock bike causing catastrophic or major engine damage. In other words, its unlikely you need repair but if you do its likely going to be covered by your warranty.
Good luck.
Did you do the muffler install on your own? Whoever did the install, it's possible the head pipes were moved around enough to create leaks around the exhaust ports at the heads. That has the potential to effect performance. You might also look at O2 sensors and connectors. If one has come loose or isn't functioning that could also create some problems.
You didn't mention doing anything near the intake but that's another place where leaks can occur and kill performance. Might want to look at that as a possible cause if other areas yield nothing. You'll know if you have an intake leak if your head pipes are glowing hot and if you have performance degradation as the bike warms up. It may idle fine but it runs like crap at RPM. A way to check is start the bike and spray carb spray or starting fluid between the heads on the intake. Any surge or dip in the RPMs tells you there is an intake leak.
Your bike is fairly new and you said the only thing you did was change the mufflers. That should not have created the performance problems you describe on its own. Since the intake and ECM are stock, you are still only pulling in as much air as the stock AC will allow.
It is unlikely based on the year of your bike and the very limited engine modifications you have done (slip-ons only) that you have somehow developed some major system malfunction or failure. Odds are much more in your favor that you have a more simple explanation that is tied to the muffler installation.
Hard to answer a warranty "what if" question without knowing the nature of the problem. It boils down to what the problem is and if an aftermarket component or modification was the root cause of the problem. That's hard to say but I will submit that I have never heard of slip-on mufflers on a stock bike causing catastrophic or major engine damage. In other words, its unlikely you need repair but if you do its likely going to be covered by your warranty.
Good luck.