Brake Pads
#3
#5
#6
Check out Lyndall Racing Brakes....They stop better than the factory pads and they are dust free for the most part.
I put them on my 08 Fatboy about 1,000 miles ago @9,000 miles because I got tired of trying to keep up with cleaning the back wheel to keep the corrosion down.
http://www.lyndallracingbrakes.com/a...ide-harley.htm
From their web site...."Our Z Plus compound is a softened version of the Gold Plus compound. It is excellent for general purpose riding and offers a high coefficient of friction. This is the most rotor friendly pad in the industry. It produces no dust, and no noise. The service life generally averages about 18,000 miles. "
Do a search....a lot of guys run the z pads.
I put them on my 08 Fatboy about 1,000 miles ago @9,000 miles because I got tired of trying to keep up with cleaning the back wheel to keep the corrosion down.
http://www.lyndallracingbrakes.com/a...ide-harley.htm
From their web site...."Our Z Plus compound is a softened version of the Gold Plus compound. It is excellent for general purpose riding and offers a high coefficient of friction. This is the most rotor friendly pad in the industry. It produces no dust, and no noise. The service life generally averages about 18,000 miles. "
Do a search....a lot of guys run the z pads.
Last edited by chidiver; 06-14-2009 at 06:55 PM. Reason: added info
#7
Trending Topics
#8
I may be wrong but it sounds like you are using the rear brake for all/most of your braking. After reader many post, I have noticed that many on the forum do as well for fear of front lock-up. This is improper and dangerous... period. Heavy front brake is what will stop a motorcycle in an emergency with assist by the rear. Not sure of the exact percentages but I know it's heavy front with enough rear before skidding. Panic braking practice makes perfect. Proper braking at all times, emergency or not is both front and rear. The only time more rear brake and less on/no front is when on gravel, grass, dirt, certain situations on a wet roadway, wet leaves, plastic or any other object that might be lying in your stopping path and so on. If that's not the case with yourself, see the other post but I hope this post will save someones life.
Last edited by BigJoeNY; 06-15-2009 at 05:01 AM.
#10
I have heard of people wearing out the rears faster than normal because they use the bike in heavy traffic and they habitually use the rears for low speed stopping. This isn't the best idea in the world because it can be a bad habit to get into that's hard to break, but its not unusual. Or they do a lot of low speed maneuvering where you will frequently use the friction zone of the clutch and the rear brake at the same time.
Get the Lyndell pads they are better and last longer, and try making a consious effort to break the habit of dragging the rear brake in traffic.
Try to use if for holding the bike in place when its on an incline and wants to roll instead of for stopping.
6 to 8K on a rear tire seems fairly normal with some guys getting more or less depending on how and where they ride.
Get the Lyndell pads they are better and last longer, and try making a consious effort to break the habit of dragging the rear brake in traffic.
Try to use if for holding the bike in place when its on an incline and wants to roll instead of for stopping.
6 to 8K on a rear tire seems fairly normal with some guys getting more or less depending on how and where they ride.