Looking for quality horsepower / torque mods
#1
04-15-2009, 10:27 AM
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Location: texas
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#2
04-15-2009, 10:34 AM
Road Captain
without a cam or displacement change your gain will never be as dramatic, -simple stage 1's I.E. high flow filter,exhaust,and good tuning or fuel management tuners will give 10 to 15%..read up study there r 100's of different combinations of each, but I think proper Tuning (air fuel mixture) is a priority just my .02
#3
04-15-2009, 11:32 AM
R.I.P. BROTHER
You gotta start it off with the basic stage 1 stuff air cleaner, pipes EFI remap if its injectored. Not real big gains to be had there maybe 10% as Duty says.
Duty is making that power he has with relatively minor stuff as he has the 96" motor. So he already has more displacement (For which their is no replacement!) than you or I had with our 88's. You wont get what he got doing the same stuff. You would be a tad lower.
Your next affordable step is a "Cookie Cutter" Harley dealer 95" big bore kit that many dealers will install for $1400.
With a 95" Big bore kit, Cams, pipes, Air cleaner and a good dyno tune be it a fuel management device for EFI bikes or solid jetting for the carbed units you will be up in the 80HP/90TQ range give or take a few on either side.
To get those numbers any higher on your TC88 you will have to do some headwork. To get your 95" into the low 100's you would need your heads ported, milled, worked over. You would need compression. You would need good pipes. You would need a good tuner!
My mild stage 3 95" motor puts out 93HP/103TQ. Thats uncorrected at 6000 feet above sea-level so down in Texas that would be closer to 100Hp/115TQ.
I have 211 cams, headwork (Milled, Ported, flowed), thinner head gaskets, 3 angle valve job, hand matched rings, adjustable pushrods, Big shot staggered pipes, SE heavy breather air cleaner. Mine is mild so no compression release as my comp is about 9.8:1. Probably not even start when I ride it down to sea-level as it will make 15% more compression or sonmething crazy!! Hit the button...Clank.
The goal with any decent build is to make 1.1HP and a bit more TQ per cubic inch.
All the above means nothing without a good tuner.
So when you say open the cases??? These bikes need cams to make the money. Hence your cases will need to dug into. And dug into deep. You may be ready to replace those crappy cam chain tensioners with the new style ones whilst you are there before they get any chances to shatter and destroy yer' motor! How many miles on yer' Bike?
Duty is making that power he has with relatively minor stuff as he has the 96" motor. So he already has more displacement (For which their is no replacement!) than you or I had with our 88's. You wont get what he got doing the same stuff. You would be a tad lower.
Your next affordable step is a "Cookie Cutter" Harley dealer 95" big bore kit that many dealers will install for $1400.
With a 95" Big bore kit, Cams, pipes, Air cleaner and a good dyno tune be it a fuel management device for EFI bikes or solid jetting for the carbed units you will be up in the 80HP/90TQ range give or take a few on either side.
To get those numbers any higher on your TC88 you will have to do some headwork. To get your 95" into the low 100's you would need your heads ported, milled, worked over. You would need compression. You would need good pipes. You would need a good tuner!
My mild stage 3 95" motor puts out 93HP/103TQ. Thats uncorrected at 6000 feet above sea-level so down in Texas that would be closer to 100Hp/115TQ.
I have 211 cams, headwork (Milled, Ported, flowed), thinner head gaskets, 3 angle valve job, hand matched rings, adjustable pushrods, Big shot staggered pipes, SE heavy breather air cleaner. Mine is mild so no compression release as my comp is about 9.8:1. Probably not even start when I ride it down to sea-level as it will make 15% more compression or sonmething crazy!! Hit the button...Clank.
The goal with any decent build is to make 1.1HP and a bit more TQ per cubic inch.
All the above means nothing without a good tuner.
So when you say open the cases??? These bikes need cams to make the money. Hence your cases will need to dug into. And dug into deep. You may be ready to replace those crappy cam chain tensioners with the new style ones whilst you are there before they get any chances to shatter and destroy yer' motor! How many miles on yer' Bike?
Last edited by Chazmanian; 04-15-2009 at 11:43 AM.
#4
04-15-2009, 12:31 PM
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but that is in the V8 market - My bike just roller 50,000 yesterday. so your advice on the timing chains makes sense. Can you tell me 3-5 good websites for buying these kind of parts?
#5
04-15-2009, 12:40 PM
#6
04-15-2009, 12:44 PM
R.I.P. BROTHER
How many of those miles were yours and do you have any info on when or if the previous owner replaced the tensioners?
Those things can casue catastrophic failure and if your bike is 50K on the originals that needs to be addressed immediately. Personally i would not even start that bike again until I had them looked at or had a reciept showing how long ago the were replaced.
That being said when you replace them you should look into doing the new style hydro tensioners which have a different design and will last a really long time. The old style last anywhere from 15 to 35K and then they are generally roasted and begin to fall apart leaving plastic debris to float around your motor. Left unattended they will snap clean off causing massive engine damage.
If your tensioners need done it would be a great time to install a new set of cams as well to get that extra pop you are looking for.
Go with a set of cams, high flow air cleaner and a good set of pipes.
Albeit your motor savvy will be awesome when removing and installing pipes, air cleaners, wheels etc...etc.. I would not recommend getting into your cam chest without having someone who knows Harley twin cam motors assisting you and having the tools required on yer' first go round.
Good Link:http://www.*****************/forums/tw...re-survey.html
Is your bike carbed or EFI?
Last edited by Chazmanian; 04-15-2009 at 12:53 PM.
#7
04-15-2009, 12:50 PM
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#9
04-15-2009, 01:09 PM
Road Warrior
#10
04-15-2009, 01:19 PM
R.I.P. BROTHER
Oh you bought it from a dealership?
Thats typically a good thing as they would not sell you that 50K bike without checking those tensioner pads. Thats Harley 101 that ewven the worst dealership in the knowm universe would check prior to selling the bike.
The 21, 26, 203, 204, 211, 37's sheese the list of cams for these bikes is endless.
SE or harley cams have a 3 digit identifier. IE: 203. 211. 204. 256 Etc...Etc...
Woods and andrews use a 2 digit code number with a letter sometimes too!
All these different cams have different lift charateristics based on what type of riding you do and on what type of bike and build.
Here is a good read on Cams:http://www.harley-riders-guide.com/h...dson-cams.html
Most motor guys seem to be fixated on a few grinds and will build motors based on those grinds. A 211 build needs to be a big bore motor with high compression whilst a 203 build will run better in a stocker. So most of these guys name the build after the cam. So Bob the motor guy down the street does his Andrews 37 build and swears its the best thing in the world where Joe on the other side of town is convinced he can make stronger faster better with a woods 26....
Its madness really.
HOw mild or how wild your and your wallet wanna go is gonna decide what cam and what build you end up.
Wanna spend 8-9 grand on a 113 stroker?
Or do a simple 203 build with pipes and an air filter for about $1500.00?
Its all on what you feel you need.
I'm a spazwad 211 guy. One of the few. The brave. The higher RPM crew.
Most motor guys dislike 211's. Everything needs to just right or they suck *****. YOu can get it just right and some folks do not like the dip in the TQ curve. Personally? I like that late hittting high RPM screaming V-Twin action.
You may be a short shifting 203 guy.
If I'm on the gas I dont even hit 2nd gear til I'm doing a tad over 40MPH....3rd is at 60+. Some folks dont like that. I sho' nuff do!
Thats typically a good thing as they would not sell you that 50K bike without checking those tensioner pads. Thats Harley 101 that ewven the worst dealership in the knowm universe would check prior to selling the bike.
The 21, 26, 203, 204, 211, 37's sheese the list of cams for these bikes is endless.
SE or harley cams have a 3 digit identifier. IE: 203. 211. 204. 256 Etc...Etc...
Woods and andrews use a 2 digit code number with a letter sometimes too!
All these different cams have different lift charateristics based on what type of riding you do and on what type of bike and build.
Here is a good read on Cams:http://www.harley-riders-guide.com/h...dson-cams.html
Most motor guys seem to be fixated on a few grinds and will build motors based on those grinds. A 211 build needs to be a big bore motor with high compression whilst a 203 build will run better in a stocker. So most of these guys name the build after the cam. So Bob the motor guy down the street does his Andrews 37 build and swears its the best thing in the world where Joe on the other side of town is convinced he can make stronger faster better with a woods 26....
Its madness really.
HOw mild or how wild your and your wallet wanna go is gonna decide what cam and what build you end up.
Wanna spend 8-9 grand on a 113 stroker?
Or do a simple 203 build with pipes and an air filter for about $1500.00?
Its all on what you feel you need.
I'm a spazwad 211 guy. One of the few. The brave. The higher RPM crew.
Most motor guys dislike 211's. Everything needs to just right or they suck *****. YOu can get it just right and some folks do not like the dip in the TQ curve. Personally? I like that late hittting high RPM screaming V-Twin action.
You may be a short shifting 203 guy.
If I'm on the gas I dont even hit 2nd gear til I'm doing a tad over 40MPH....3rd is at 60+. Some folks dont like that. I sho' nuff do!