Looking for quality horsepower / torque mods
#31
05-27-2009, 05:26 PM
No rule here... just will be a year or two out and funds will hopefully be more available... And, stuffin 21's this past winter in this 88" put some life in the motor and their is no hurry for a 95"...
Last edited by KumaRide; 05-28-2009 at 08:01 PM.
#33
05-28-2009, 08:41 AM
R.I.P. BROTHER
That 103 is a hot build but why not do a 95" and keep your stock crank? That 103 build on your 88 is gonna be really-really pricey and a well done 95 is pretty badass without giving up much to the 103 and in stage 3 mode will tromp the 103.....
Did you look at the T-Man website and look at those dyno sheets? His stage 3 elite 95" kit is stronger than his stage 2 103 by a good 10%. You could pull that off and have a fire breathing beast for the same moolah as stroking your 88 and having a 8CI bigger yet mellower stage 2 motor....
I wouldnt order any gear driven cams til' I had the runout on the stock crank checked. If you are doing a 103 that wont matter though. Either way you may want to research doing the Hydro tensioners instead. New cam plate and all they are like $400 and do not have the higher potential for issues due to runout. Whiny gears, oil pump failure etc..etc... The new style Hydro tensioners are a very good piece.
#34
05-28-2009, 11:51 AM
Join Date: Apr 2009
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Your bike is an 88 now right?
That 103 is a hot build but why not do a 95" and keep your stock crank? That 103 build on your 88 is gonna be really-really pricey and a well done 95 is pretty badass without giving up much to the 103 and in stage 3 mode will tromp the 103.....
Did you look at the T-Man website and look at those dyno sheets? His stage 3 elite 95" kit is stronger than his stage 2 103 by a good 10%. You could pull that off and have a fire breathing beast for the same moolah as stroking your 88 and having a 8CI bigger yet mellower stage 2 motor....
I wouldnt order any gear driven cams til' I had the runout on the stock crank checked. If you are doing a 103 that wont matter though. Either way you may want to research doing the Hydro tensioners instead. New cam plate and all they are like $400 and do not have the higher potential for issues due to runout. Whiny gears, oil pump failure etc..etc... The new style Hydro tensioners are a very good piece.
That 103 is a hot build but why not do a 95" and keep your stock crank? That 103 build on your 88 is gonna be really-really pricey and a well done 95 is pretty badass without giving up much to the 103 and in stage 3 mode will tromp the 103.....
Did you look at the T-Man website and look at those dyno sheets? His stage 3 elite 95" kit is stronger than his stage 2 103 by a good 10%. You could pull that off and have a fire breathing beast for the same moolah as stroking your 88 and having a 8CI bigger yet mellower stage 2 motor....
I wouldnt order any gear driven cams til' I had the runout on the stock crank checked. If you are doing a 103 that wont matter though. Either way you may want to research doing the Hydro tensioners instead. New cam plate and all they are like $400 and do not have the higher potential for issues due to runout. Whiny gears, oil pump failure etc..etc... The new style Hydro tensioners are a very good piece.
#35
05-28-2009, 12:39 PM
R.I.P. BROTHER
Call T-Man. Ask about the 95" stage 3 elite kit. Keep your stock crank. Its probably ranout past .003 so ask T-Man about the Hydro cam kit as well.
No point in dropping more dollars on a mild stage 2 103 when you could have a fire breathing 95" that makes more money at the rear wheel and more sense if you are on any kinda budget.
#37
05-28-2009, 06:11 PM
I think most good 95 builds with cams and head work and a good tune would walk away from my 96" with cams easy.
the stock 96's are about the same as the 88's stock (both with stage1), I ran with a few guys that had them and when we got on them and they stayed right with me..
Here's the sheet on mine after stage1 and the 26h's
the stock 96's are about the same as the 88's stock (both with stage1), I ran with a few guys that had them and when we got on them and they stayed right with me..
Here's the sheet on mine after stage1 and the 26h's
Last edited by oct1949; 02-14-2018 at 03:55 AM.
#38
05-28-2009, 07:58 PM
R.I.P. BROTHER
I think most good 95 builds with cams and head work and a good tune would walk away from my 96" with cams easy.
the stock 96's are about the same as the 88's stock (both with stage1), I ran with a few guys that had them and when we got on them and they stayed right with me..
Here's the sheet on mine after stage1 and the 26h's
the stock 96's are about the same as the 88's stock (both with stage1), I ran with a few guys that had them and when we got on them and they stayed right with me..
Here's the sheet on mine after stage1 and the 26h's
I think where the Op was getting pointed wasnt realistic for a guy who isnt trying to drop huge bucks.
The 103 build on an 88 takes a stroker crank.
103 build on a 96 does not as it already has the stroked crank.
If a guy prices out the cost of a stroked stage 2 bike compared to a good solid stage 3 95" the 95" is cheaper and will lay down a bit mo' beef than a 103 stage 2 build.
I had an oppourtunity to buy a brand new screaming Eagle 103 crate motor. Never outta the crate never started. Out of the crate SE 103 motor is gonna do about 80HP and 88TQ. My stage 3 95" does 93HP 108TQ. The motor was crazy cheap but after realizing that after its $2500 cost plus another $1500 in cams and headwork I would have 4 grand in it.....I still wanted it as when mine was wore out I would simply yank it and drop the 103 in its place. I almost bought it...Almost.
After further review that particular motor had a crank that would have to be welded or it would go south fast. Its one of the motors Harley did that had issues with crank runout early in its life. I still wanted it as I figgered I would get the crank welded.....After doing the math simply rebuilding mine when it wears out is a more viable option.
Sure did like the thought of a 103 though....Bigger is generally better in most cases. Key word "Most"
Dammit!!
#39
05-28-2009, 08:27 PM
#40
05-28-2009, 11:03 PM
R.I.P. BROTHER
Here is an example of a qoute on what would be a strong running reliable mild stage 3 build on top of an exsisting 95" stage 2 bike which would be a 95" big bore with cams, pipes, AC and no modifications to the heads or pistons.
Dependent on your dyno tuners dyno typically you will not get the numbers you posted on a stage 2 95". Just isnt typical.
100TQ+ 95" motors generally if not almost always seem to need compression and head work to get into that arena.
Generally numbers on a stage 2 bike with stock heads and stock compression good cams and a pipe (Emphasis on Pipe singular!) are gonna churn out 75-80HP and 85-90 Lbs Tq. Doing 90/106TQ through a set of Sammy Fish tails is shockingly high.
Are you the first owner of the bike as it very much sounds as if someone at least milled the heads on your 95" as the stock compression just wont give those big numbers on a dyno that os funtioning correctly. The numbers you listed are much more typical of a mild stage 3 95" with some headwork, little compression bump or maybe a set of high comp pistons???
So here is a good example of an A-Typical 95" build (Its listed on the dyno sheet as an 88 but its not.) It has a ported throttle body, Weisco 10:5-1 High comp pistons and stock heads. His bike is doing 88/103 and you have him beat on a set of stocker low comp pistons?
If you are not the first owner good chance you have some extra bonus stuff going on in that mill of yours without knowing it. If you get a chance have the CCP compression checked.
If you are the first owner did the shop that did the 95" mill and port your heads without you knowing it?
Last edited by Chazmanian; 05-28-2009 at 11:06 PM.