I don't believe that's an option without paying for more dyno time.

 

From what I've read, it sounds like you didn't get what you paid for? You should have gotten the download done correctly and then gotten the dyno proof showing you the improvements...right? Didnt you say that you paid to get a TTS Mastertune and dyno tune? If that's what you paid for, go back and get it done correctly. Or am I completely reading this wrong and you did all the work yourself and just had him do the dyno to tell you what the new numbers are? In which case, all you had him do was give you the numbers so there's nothing to fix.

 

I suppose that's a matter of opinion. I paid for a dyno tune and that's what I received. I'm obviously not happy with the results. Can I for a fact pin those poor results on the tuner? Not at this time I can't.

 

I think what I'm hearing is that there's a difference between a tune and a run. The run will just give you the present results. The tune should be dyno runs to tune your bike for the best performance. If the best performance is the stock numbers, so be it (though that sounds crazy). But the result of a dyno tune should not be lower than the stock numbers (that sounds crazier).

Did you just pay for a chart or for a tech to actually tune your bike?

I have a carb'd bike, but when I brought it in for tuning, they ran it up on the dyno and started swapping different jets in the carb until they got the best results on the charts. That cost me about $200 back in 2004 for the jet kit and the tuning. If the results were worse than the setup I had when I brought it in, I'd have told him to put it back the way it was at minimum.

Now to show my real ignorance... maybe the peak HP/TQ was lower but overall the curve smoothed out so the average was higher? I don't know. Is the goal of a tune to get the highest peak (regardless of where the peak occurs) or the best curve? Maybe, for a rider like me, trimming the high-end for improved low-end performance makes sense.

 

Okay...so it sounds like you paid for a "Dyno TUNE" but you got a "Dyno RUN". That's the problem. Go back and have him do the tune that you paid for.

 

lets squash this thread he dosent want to take it back ................

 

I looked through waiting for but never did see what the AFR was? Should be 13.2-13.5 (for everyday cruising) from my vast experience (preference) at MMI dyno tuning. Sounds like the wrong AFR with the browning, but how long did it take for this to happen? A hour, day, week, month... year? Forget HP/Torque; what you want is a nice AFR across the board. AFR=HP/T! Shame on everyone who said "the tuner sucks!" without knowing what the AFR is (which would be the proof in the pudding to how good the tuner is). And if it came back lean, I still wouldn't dis them since the "customer" probably asked to wring out as much HP as possible meaning it needs to run LEAN. I notice that the lines of your runs are "squiggly": I prefer the SERT for cleaning up these using the VE Tables but that would only get you 2-5 extra HP. I'm not familiar with your device and if this is even possible (MMI teaches the SERT only). And... 33 runs to tune? Did a 2007 FXDWG in 2.5 hours with a SERT and that being overly persnickety with a friend's bike. The HP/T you got might be all the bike has to give with the foo-foo fish tail pipes; of course Rush will get you better numbers but were you expecting 100 HP? As far as the dyno numbers "changing": they didn't. A bike will dyno at one peak and then next hour or day or week, dyno at another peak. You will never get the same numbers. The word "peak" is the clue; peak means "the best run" out of all. The first two should be the best due to temperature increases from consecutive/back-to-back runs. My '01 XL1200C has a peak HP of 75 HP (with drag pipes) meaning, on my best (first) run, I ran a 75; the rest averaged 68. Of course, I tell people my peak is 75 and they still don't know WTF I'm talking about. NOTE: would also get a higher peak with some good performance pipes vice the drags! My '97 FLSTC ran peak at 60 HP with V&H but would run better with SE 2-1's. See? Both okay with me since I know my AFR is 13.2-13.5 on both bikes. Peak Hp is only good for bar bragging rights; it's how the bike is running (AFR) and the average HP/T (resulting from the AFR).

 

I don't know how I can be any clearer. I paid for a dyno tune and I received a dyno tune. What I'm unhappy about are the results of the dyno tune which were lower numbers than my stock baseline numbers.

 

As a matter of fact, I received a call from the tuner, who was made aware of this thread, and am taking it back.

 

WoW!
robzuc97 hit it out of the park!! A tune for a good running bike and good MPG is done to the AFR. (13.2-13.5 as stated) Discolored pipes = lean, and hot. Not good!! Isn't that why the upgrade to the TTS Mastertune, to make it right. The HP&T numbers are just what the build puts out at the proper tune.
Get the AFR numbers and go from there.
C-