((95)) CID guys what cams r u running??
#11
02-19-2009, 12:31 PM
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: union county n.j
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You are going to find the 203 cam runs out of steam around 3,500 RPM. It's also emissions friendly. The big difference between the 204 and the 203 is that the 204 has a very early exhaust valve close which builds much more static compression. It also has a different LSA for better top end breathing. It's used best on a heavy weight bike application such as a dresser. I you run an FX or a Dyna, there are much better choices. Your 9.8 to 1 compression is too much for the 204, but perfect for others,
Do a little more research on cams and what the numbers mean, then it will all come into focus. You will be able to choose what's right for you. I can tell you this, why go into the cam chest and do all of that work unless you are absolutely sure of what you are buying.
Do a little more research on cams and what the numbers mean, then it will all come into focus. You will be able to choose what's right for you. I can tell you this, why go into the cam chest and do all of that work unless you are absolutely sure of what you are buying.
#12
02-19-2009, 12:53 PM
your right george... when i did my build i went with the se 95 stage 2 kit..witch came with the 203s.. i also went with all jims valve componits... but i never really looked at any other cams before my build.. your right though by saying the 203s fall off at about 3,500 .. what i would like is to have the low and mid that i have now with some more on the top.. do you think the 204 would be a good choice for me???
I know a lot of guys like the Woods TW-6
I would try this site. There are a bunch of performance builders with a lot of experience with your compression ratio who can prescribe the perfect cam for your combination.
http://harleytechtalk.net/htt/index....6192&board=3.0
#13
02-19-2009, 01:36 PM
Elite HDF Member
Are they the V&H, BSS? Look like they are a bit long for the BSS, but it is hard to tell from the angle of your signature picture.
Tom
#14
02-19-2009, 01:44 PM
I disagree with george c"s commit if your gear drives are set to proper lash then they are more reliable and the noise he speaks of also come from not proper installation. Myself and many people I ride with have gone to gear drive with over 20, 30k on them with no issues no noise and no worn shoes (oh wait the shoes are with chains). Using the its not worth a gear snapping commit I guess you should not ride your bike at all because its not worth it breaking a chain or a shoe.
I think you are now seeing that gear drive is the least favorable option now. Lots of gears breaking because of crank run out issues, not to mention the noise from straight cut gears. . It's not worth the risking a gear snapping anymore. You won't have that problem with a chain.
There is a lot of good reading here. You should give yourself an education first. Many things affect the powerband such as valve timing, overlap, LSA and many others. Once you learn the basics, and how they can react to different exhaust systems, you'll be able to pick out a certain cam that will fill your own personal needs.
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/camdb.htm
There is a lot of good reading here. You should give yourself an education first. Many things affect the powerband such as valve timing, overlap, LSA and many others. Once you learn the basics, and how they can react to different exhaust systems, you'll be able to pick out a certain cam that will fill your own personal needs.
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/camdb.htm
#15
02-19-2009, 03:07 PM
Road Captain
#16
02-19-2009, 03:18 PM
I disagree with george c"s commit if your gear drives are set to proper lash then they are more reliable and the noise he speaks of also come from not proper installation. Myself and many people I ride with have gone to gear drive with over 20, 30k on them with no issues no noise and no worn shoes (oh wait the shoes are with chains). Using the its not worth a gear snapping commit I guess you should not ride your bike at all because its not worth it breaking a chain or a shoe.
Do a little research on the subject.
Nobody will be using gear drives in the very near future. They do fall prey to run out, where chains do not. Any wear what-so-ever can change the movement. It's not worth the risk anymore because a better system has been developed. The updated 07' version with the new hydralic shoe is earning the reputation as the most reliable and trouble free cam drive system, and is becoming the choice drive for any performance application.
Last edited by George C; 02-19-2009 at 03:26 PM.
#17
02-19-2009, 03:22 PM
All of the magic is done in the cam chest.
Some pipes react better with different grinds, but by themselves really don't add much.
Until the valve timing, duration, lift and LSA are adjusted, you really can't increase flow. No flow, no power.
#18
02-19-2009, 03:52 PM
George did your crystal ball tell you nobody will be using them. Somebody call S&S and andrews to let them know so they can stop production. That is a pretty arrogant statement to make it is like saying the debate on global whining(warming) is over. Products have different applications and preferences by consumers I for one do not like a chain driven cam that is my opinion, you do that is yours but that does not make anything fact. A fellow rider is asking what others use and like and as you can see many people do use and like gear drive for performance.
#19
02-19-2009, 06:08 PM
George did your crystal ball tell you nobody will be using them. Somebody call S&S and andrews to let them know so they can stop production. That is a pretty arrogant statement to make it is like saying the debate on global whining(warming) is over. Products have different applications and preferences by consumers I for one do not like a chain driven cam that is my opinion, you do that is yours but that does not make anything fact. A fellow rider is asking what others use and like and as you can see many people do use and like gear drive for performance.
I think if you actually researched, not only do "they" produce cams that will fit the new style roller application, they are now producing the entire conversion kit.
I wonder, why is that?
If gear drive cams were a bulletproof upgrade, why would they entertain building an entire kit that takes cam drive into a complertely different direction?
Is it possible they see a better, more reliable way ahead? Maybe they looked into "their" crystal ball and see a trouble free solution.
You have gears and you take offense. Well, I can understand that, but the fact of the matter is plain and simple. Gear drives are an unnecessary gamble that I believe will become a thing of the past soon enough..
Last edited by George C; 02-19-2009 at 06:20 PM.
#20
02-19-2009, 06:41 PM
Cruiser
I run the SE203 cams in my bike and they do not fall off too early in my opinion. I wanted cams that were reasonably priced and ran well from 2000 to 5000 rpms. They do this well. If your 203s are falling off at 3800 rpms, you might look to see if there is another issue. Even SE255 cams are capable of pulling well to 5000 rpms and above when tuned right. I also have higher compression than just flat tops and it does not ping. Later, Calvin.