Cost to have cam chain tensioners replaced?
#31
01-26-2009, 10:51 AM
That's good info Geore C, I am trying to make the decisionon gear drive or staying with the chains. I also considered switching to the 07 and Newer hydraulic/roller setup. Thanks for more info.
anubisss, I think the 02 models still had the forged crank so runout may not be as much of an issue for you.
anubisss, I think the 02 models still had the forged crank so runout may not be as much of an issue for you.
Warg,
I wouldn't think twice about staying with the stock set up.
The 06's are a little different from everything else. Unless you have your heart set on something other than a SE cam, or add a TON of miles every year, I would just stay with what you have. it's a lot cheaper to do and saving money is a plus these days.
Like I said before, I can't recommend the SE 204 cam enough. I wish you could ride my bike to see.
#32
01-26-2009, 11:21 AM
Warg,
I wouldn't think twice about staying with the stock set up.
The 06's are a little different from everything else. Unless you have your heart set on something other than a SE cam, or add a TON of miles every year, I would just stay with what you have. it's a lot cheaper to do and saving money is a plus these days.
Like I said before, I can't recommend the SE 204 cam enough. I wish you could ride my bike to see.
I wouldn't think twice about staying with the stock set up.
The 06's are a little different from everything else. Unless you have your heart set on something other than a SE cam, or add a TON of miles every year, I would just stay with what you have. it's a lot cheaper to do and saving money is a plus these days.
Like I said before, I can't recommend the SE 204 cam enough. I wish you could ride my bike to see.
I am considering having my stock cylinders bored, getting my stock heads reworked, and then droping a higher performance cam (i.e. SE 204, Andrews 37, Woods TW-6). Honestly I would rather stay with the chains, but the reliability issue has made me think twice. You info on the 06 models really helps.
#33
01-26-2009, 11:45 AM
I did mine while it was brand new.
I bought it in November and it stayed at the dealer until the work was done in March.
First I sent the jugs, heads and other engine hardware out for diamond cutting. When they came back, we sent them out locally to be bored. My dealer has a performance guy on staff, and he did the heads.
If you go with the 204, you want to stick with the flat tops in a 95" build. The 204 raises static compression very high, so you want to stay with 9.4 to 1 ratio from the flat tops or you will be suffering from pinging and hot start problems. The 204 cam is the same as the Andrews 37B, but it's advanced 4 degrees to keep low end power strong.
My bike runs flawlessly. Never pings and has killer power down low, all the way up to 4,800 rpm. Great gas mileage and is loud as hell from the cam.
Reliability isn't a problem with the tensioners in an 06'. I read here all the time about 30k+ mileage and the shoes still look new. The older ones? Yeah, not enough lubrication on the shoes, but not with the 06' models.
I bought it in November and it stayed at the dealer until the work was done in March.
First I sent the jugs, heads and other engine hardware out for diamond cutting. When they came back, we sent them out locally to be bored. My dealer has a performance guy on staff, and he did the heads.
If you go with the 204, you want to stick with the flat tops in a 95" build. The 204 raises static compression very high, so you want to stay with 9.4 to 1 ratio from the flat tops or you will be suffering from pinging and hot start problems. The 204 cam is the same as the Andrews 37B, but it's advanced 4 degrees to keep low end power strong.
My bike runs flawlessly. Never pings and has killer power down low, all the way up to 4,800 rpm. Great gas mileage and is loud as hell from the cam.
Reliability isn't a problem with the tensioners in an 06'. I read here all the time about 30k+ mileage and the shoes still look new. The older ones? Yeah, not enough lubrication on the shoes, but not with the 06' models.
#34
01-26-2009, 12:44 PM
I would like to have my jugs and heads diamond cut as well, may as well do it when it's all apart.
Thanks for the info. I don't really trust any of the dealers here locally so I may have to look out of town for a builder. I will probably send my cylinders and heads out for work, and then find someone to assemble the finished parts.
Thanks for the info. I don't really trust any of the dealers here locally so I may have to look out of town for a builder. I will probably send my cylinders and heads out for work, and then find someone to assemble the finished parts.
#35
01-26-2009, 03:57 PM
Tourer
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Cold Lake Alberta, Canada
Posts: 330
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had the S&S510G done on my 06 SG and said What the heck..bored the jugs and did the pistons to a 95" also with new lifters BTW.
Allready running the PCIII with stage 1 when this one done. Unfortunetly our CDN prices are Higher
go for it ..nice difference and dependability to boot!
Cheers!
Allready running the PCIII with stage 1 when this one done. Unfortunetly our CDN prices are Higher
go for it ..nice difference and dependability to boot!
Cheers!
#36
01-26-2009, 05:13 PM
Is it Ok to pull the Camplate and replace the tensioners with out replacing the bearings? I don't have a bearing puller and don't want to get one. Also do you have to replace the pushrods with the adjustables or is there a way to keep the lifters up out of the way while you pull the cam plate.
#37
01-26-2009, 06:15 PM
Tourer
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 460
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Is it Ok to pull the Camplate and replace the tensioners with out replacing the bearings? I don't have a bearing puller and don't want to get one. Also do you have to replace the pushrods with the adjustables or is there a way to keep the lifters up out of the way while you pull the cam plate.
H-D comes with one-piece lifters that can't be removed in one piece unless you take the heads off. When you pull the cam plate the cams come with it and the lifters will drop into the cam chest area. Most people upgrade with adjustable pushrods for the convienance. And later on, if you want to do your cams, then you just remove the pushrods, replace cams and lifters, re-adjust pushrods and you're done.
The bearings in the cam plate are easy enough to replace...just heat up the cam plate either on a hot plate or with a torch until the bearings fall out...only takes a few minutes. Re-installing the cams is more of a job. I didn't bother replacing the bearings that are in the case.
#38
02-03-2009, 08:44 PM
Outstanding HDF Member
Yes, if it's just the tensioner shoes you're replacing you're fine. The tensioners can be replaced without having to remove the cams from the cam plate.
H-D comes with one-piece lifters that can't be removed in one piece unless you take the heads off. When you pull the cam plate the cams come with it and the lifters will drop into the cam chest area. Most people upgrade with adjustable pushrods for the convienance. And later on, if you want to do your cams, then you just remove the pushrods, replace cams and lifters, re-adjust pushrods and you're done.
The bearings in the cam plate are easy enough to replace...just heat up the cam plate either on a hot plate or with a torch until the bearings fall out...only takes a few minutes. Re-installing the cams is more of a job. I didn't bother replacing the bearings that are in the case.
H-D comes with one-piece lifters that can't be removed in one piece unless you take the heads off. When you pull the cam plate the cams come with it and the lifters will drop into the cam chest area. Most people upgrade with adjustable pushrods for the convienance. And later on, if you want to do your cams, then you just remove the pushrods, replace cams and lifters, re-adjust pushrods and you're done.
The bearings in the cam plate are easy enough to replace...just heat up the cam plate either on a hot plate or with a torch until the bearings fall out...only takes a few minutes. Re-installing the cams is more of a job. I didn't bother replacing the bearings that are in the case.
#39
02-03-2009, 08:48 PM
Outstanding HDF Member
#40
02-03-2009, 10:30 PM
Yes, if it's just the tensioner shoes you're replacing you're fine. The tensioners can be replaced without having to remove the cams from the cam plate.
H-D comes with one-piece lifters that can't be removed in one piece unless you take the heads off. When you pull the cam plate the cams come with it and the lifters will drop into the cam chest area. Most people upgrade with adjustable pushrods for the convienance. And later on, if you want to do your cams, then you just remove the pushrods, replace cams and lifters, re-adjust pushrods and you're done.
The bearings in the cam plate are easy enough to replace...just heat up the cam plate either on a hot plate or with a torch until the bearings fall out...only takes a few minutes. Re-installing the cams is more of a job. I didn't bother replacing the bearings that are in the case.
H-D comes with one-piece lifters that can't be removed in one piece unless you take the heads off. When you pull the cam plate the cams come with it and the lifters will drop into the cam chest area. Most people upgrade with adjustable pushrods for the convienance. And later on, if you want to do your cams, then you just remove the pushrods, replace cams and lifters, re-adjust pushrods and you're done.
The bearings in the cam plate are easy enough to replace...just heat up the cam plate either on a hot plate or with a torch until the bearings fall out...only takes a few minutes. Re-installing the cams is more of a job. I didn't bother replacing the bearings that are in the case.
Anyway, I have my cam plate sitting right in front of me with new cams and bearings installed (installing cams myself with no special tools). Are you sure about not having to remove the cams in order to replace the inner tensioner?