Getting conflicting information, please help...
#11
#13
#14
What I do when I do them is pull the caliper off the bike and get the 9.00 rebuild kit. If you just push the pucks back in the bore your just pushing all that crud that's there you can't see without taking them apart.That crud will in time makes those pucks stick. Take real fine emory cloth and clean the pucks after cleaning them with solvent.It's your bike and you only have 2 wheels and brakes.You never know when you're gonna need to stop that thing.I like to get all I can out of things like brakes especially.I don't have bags on the Train so it usually only takes an hour and a half to do the job
#15
Its always a good idea to torque to spec. I personally don't (but should to do things the right way). One of the reason they use torque specs is to keep from damaging the bolt or the tapped hole that the bolt threads into.
#16
i cleaned mine with brake cleaner and a towel and no more crude. mine stay clean because i use the car wash to wash the bike.
http://www.cyclespot.com/lyndall_rac...es_install.htm
http://www.360brake.com/index.htm
http://www.cyclespot.com/lyndall_rac...es_install.htm
http://www.360brake.com/index.htm
Last edited by tk353; 12-31-2008 at 05:24 PM.
#17
No you don't have to take the wheel off but I did notice that my front was wearing very unevenly. I pulled the caliper and made sure I had plenty of fluid in the mastercylinder and pumped out the pistons so that I could clean them real good with brake cleaner and a rag. Then I put my Lyndalls in. This solved my problem.
#18
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