Dave, you already started a thread about this. Posting the same question in multiple threads, aka multi-posting, does not help and is frowned upon. Besides, check the date, this current thread is 12 years old. Wait for responses to the thread you started.

 

I am new to these forums......thanks for the info about the rules and regulations. :-)

 

I had always used chrome allen head screws/bolts.

 

I have always been partial to studs and nuts (Chrome or acorn). I have been known to put a nut on, tighten it, then lock it with a chrome acorn.

 

It should be a T47 and not a T45, that is why so many people call the torx bolts crap, most of them use a wrong bit size. You should always try if a larger bit size wont fit if you are not sure of the correct size.

 

Realizing this thread is quite old, be careful with the fastener grades, when replacing them. Many times stainless or chrome hardware is softer than the OEM. Also when using anti-seize on the threads requires a torque reduction.
I like the ARP 12 point stainless stuff. ARP has a lot of good info on the web page including torque info, https://arp-bolts.com/

ARP stainless steel bolts are rated at 170,000 psi to provide a substantial extra margin of safety over Grade 8 and other hardware. They're available in hex head or 12-point styles and a variety of lengths and sizes for use on cars, boats, trailers, and more. Stock up on these truly maintenance-free bolts so you'll have them when the need arises. Order the ARP stainless steel bolts designed to fit your application.

I usually buy from allens fasteners, https://www.allensfasteners.com/default.asp

 

Same with T25 and T27 and T30. Close, but not exact fit. Keep trying larger sizes until you find the size that is too big, then go back to next smaller size.

 

I put an S&S crate engine in my '16 Ultra. It has chrome hex head bolts on the engine...

I decided to change my OEM primary cover/trans covers bolts to chrome, so they matched the bolts on the engine...

Luckily I started with the primary only... I bought a chrome hardware set from J&S, I forget the brand....

When they arrived, the proper sized hex head, stripped a long primary cover bolt while I was torquing the bolt down.. It was much softer than the OEM bolt... I always chase the threads and bolts before I reassemble any part on my Harley to clean the threads... I use a "chase" set, NOT a regular tap/die set for this...

After luckily removing the bad primary bolt without incident, I inspected a couple others... two would not start into the threads of the inner primary cover... I cleaned the new bolt threads with the proper size chase die, and you would have thought I was cutting the threads for the first time... these bolts were shiny... but they were absolute junk... I tossed them..

I spent the extra money for an HD chrome bolt set... they fit/torqued properly and were clearly better quality than the after market set....

On my Softail, I went with a polished stainless steel 12PT ARP bolt set for the rockers, primary, cam chest, trans.... I prefer these, and the ARP polished bolts look a lot like chrome...

 

Years ago, I replaced all the Phillips head screws on a Honda with Allen Head. I had to use an impact driver to remove some of them. Anyone that uses Phillips on a vehicle now should be drawn and quartered. IMHO, TORX are a huge improvement, and I actually like them where they are used on my Limited. JMHO...YMMV.

 

I do actually like HD's torx head fasteners, I just wish they plated them with something a little more durable and resistant to corrosion. Who want's to ride around on a 25-30K bike with nasty corroded fasteners in plain view. If Yamaha can do it on a 10K bike, HD can do it on their bikes.