Wild One Chubby WO508's
#11
I have a set of Wild one's Chubby's 518's for sale on the parts board if you are interested that were on the bike for less then a month. I started out with the 508's but did not like the feel of the bars. The 518's were great but sold the bike to a friend who wanted the stock bars on the bike and now they are colecting dust.
#13
Well I rode a bike with the 508's and I personally didn't like my hand positions down so low, so now I'm going to go with either the 513 or 515's.. I actually like the height of stock Heritage bars, but just want them a little closer to me and I don't like my wrist position with them.
Anybody running 513 or 515's on a Heritage? Same old question, did you have to change lengths of wiring,brake line, cables,etc?
Thanks,
Anybody running 513 or 515's on a Heritage? Same old question, did you have to change lengths of wiring,brake line, cables,etc?
Thanks,
Last edited by keno; 09-01-2008 at 10:12 AM. Reason: typo
#14
Well I rode a bike with the 508's and I personally didn't like my hand positions down so low, so now I'm going to go with either the 513 or 515's.. I actually like the height of stock Heritage bars, but just want them a little closer to me and I don't like my wrist position with them.
Anybody running 513 or 515's on a Heritage? Same old question, did you have to change lengths of wiring,brake line, cables,etc?
Thanks,
Anybody running 513 or 515's on a Heritage? Same old question, did you have to change lengths of wiring,brake line, cables,etc?
Thanks,
Not sure about the 515s though.
#15
#17
#19
The stock cables would work but they are tight so I put +4" throttle and idle cables on. +2" would have been best. I got those from Dennis Kirk for $21 each. the clutch is fine and the brake line can be bent and made to work but I am going to install a black diamond line soon to get rid of the stocker. You will need to extend all of your wiring and that can be a pain. Instead of buying an extension kit and messing with getting the wires out of the plugs I cut each one at 2" intervals and added in about 8" soldering and heat shrinking each joint. The tank was kind of a pain to get off but with a helper you can remove the crossover line without spilling too much. Just run the tank as low as you can before starting the job, then drain it completely before putting it back on. getting the dash off is no problem. But don't forget to unplug the fuel gage sensor wire under the tank. If you need help just PM me and I'll answer any questions I can. So far I have about 200 miles on the new bars and they are MUCH better for me than the stock ones.
#20
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Buckinfitch
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