I bought EBC organic pads, FA200. No shim included and sure as heck not needed. I guess there could be something making the piston stick but I don't think so since I was careful about being clean and also I can seat the piston by hand. May have to belt sand some material off the pads if all else fails.

 

LOL now that sounds like somethingI'd do! go for it!

 

Changed pads before, same problem made me pause a bit. Took a rubber mallet, wrapped it in cloth and it the caliper a bit to ensure things were seated well. Lube the pins for sure. Im thinking if you got the pads on the bike that there was plenty of space between the pads. Interested to know what you find. Good luck!!!

 

check to see if any shims were installed at any time. Some time thin shims are used when a pad does not hit the rotor even. with new pads and every thing new they may not be needed now

 

The pads are wearing good, the caliper will come off and go on will out binding on the pads. Where it is tight and I have to pry both on and off is from the shims, at the loop that goes around the mounting holes. I am going to dig my old pads and shims out of the trash and compare really close. Seems the new pads are VERY tight on the shims, like they are holding the pads too tight against the rotor once the piston squeezes them. Maybe I will try my old shims. I have the chrome caliper, would that make any difference?

 

I think it is fixed. I got my old pads and shims out of the trash. Compared my new parts to the old. Decided to use the old shims. The pads went on easier with the old shims but not loose. Put the caliper on, installed the greased pins snug, whacked the caliper with a towel wrapped rubber mallet, as suggested, the torqued the pins, pressed on the brakemany times to seat everything. Seems to roll much better. I think the new shims were to thick, or too much tension, and made the calipers to tight and causing them to stay pressed against the rotor too tight even after the piston stopped pressing. Make sense??? Will road test tonight. Thanks everyone for you help!!!!!

 

Good stuff.. Thanks for the feedback....

 

I took a short ride tonight, definitely less drag and several stops with only the back brake to seat the pads. Rotor still got pretty hot, even not using it the last five minutes of my ride. I am concerned of the rotor warping if it gets too hot, is that possible?

 

Once again, your rotor should not get hot. Fix the probelm before you ride or you will have more problems. I know you have done everything you could but you have a problem. Fix it

 

I ordered a replacement caliper assembly and pin bolts. Seems that the piston just doesn't slide freely as it should in the bore of my old one. It sounds gritty when I force the piston in, and seems to be metal on metal contact. This should fix it. Missed Biketoberfest because of it.