Softail Models Standard, Custom, Night Train, Deuce, Springer, Heritage, Fatboy, Deluxe, Rocker and Cross Bones.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Compensator issues

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old Yesterday, 10:55 AM
Frank Maleno's Avatar
Frank Maleno
Frank Maleno is offline
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Elizabeth city North Carolina
Posts: 33
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts
Default Compensator issues

I have an 04 Fat boy with a stage1 88 CI twin cam. Is the compensator Issues a problem with the 88 or is it just for the bigger CI. Motors?


 
  #2  
Old Yesterday, 11:01 AM
Ohio HD's Avatar
Ohio HD
Ohio HD is offline
Road Captain
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Ohio
Posts: 746
Received 705 Likes on 394 Posts
Default

The 2006 and down bikes have a pretty robust compensator. That being said, they can wear out over time, but they don't generally have premature wear or chronic issues.
 
The following 3 users liked this post by Ohio HD:
Frank Maleno (Yesterday), hattitude (Yesterday), Rounders (Yesterday)
  #3  
Old Yesterday, 04:31 PM
hattitude's Avatar
hattitude
hattitude is offline
Seasoned HDF Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 11,731
Received 8,198 Likes on 4,405 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Ohio HD

The 2006 and down bikes have a pretty robust compensator. That being said, they can wear out over time, but they don't generally have premature wear or chronic issues.



The biggest issue I have read about the early Twin Cam compensators (before the "upgrade" in 2007+ models) is that sometimes the the comp nut will come loose.

It was a big enough problem that HD covered it in a Tech Tip.

Tech Tip- TT122, dated 10/29/03, "Engine Noise and Vibration Complaints"- It discussed engine noise & vibrations could be caused by a loose compensator nut. The loose nut could be due to bad clamp load on the comp nut.

If no indications of poor clamp load and the comp nut is loose, they suggested to reassembled with clean threads, Threadlocker 262, and retorque to 150-165 ft lbs

If the comp nut is tight, they suggested it may be a clamp load issue. They recommend, "Try adding a 24033-70 shim under the head of the compensating nut (p/n 40392-91) and re-assemble as described above."

They also changed the torque spec from 150-165 ft lbs to basically torquing the comp nut to 75 ft lbs, then tightening an additional 45° - 50°, with a max of 50 °. This came out in a Service Bulletin, M-1170, dated 5/27/05.

Many experienced techs ignore the shim recommended by the MoCo. Any time they have to work on an early twin Cam Compensator, they just trim the comp nut bottom .030". That way it is a non-issue. If someone takes it apart, unfamiliar with TT122, they can just reassemble per the Service Manual, and they are golden. They don't have to find a shim, not mentioned in the Service Manual and wonder, what's with this shim? Should there should be a shim? Where is it supposed to go? etc, etc....

---see below---



 

Last edited by hattitude; Yesterday at 04:43 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Ohio HD (Yesterday)
  #4  
Old Yesterday, 04:46 PM
Ohio HD's Avatar
Ohio HD
Ohio HD is offline
Road Captain
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Ohio
Posts: 746
Received 705 Likes on 394 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by hattitude


The biggest issue I have read about the early Twin Cam compensators (before the "upgrade" in 2007+ models) is that sometimes the the comp nut will come loose.

It was a big enough problem that HD covered it in a Tech Tip.

Tech Tip- TT122, dated 10/29/03, "Engine Noise and Vibration Complaints"- It discussed engine noise & vibrations could be caused by a loose compensator nut. The loose nut could be due to bad clamp load on the comp nut.

If no indications of poor clamp load and the comp nut is loose, they suggested to reassembled with clean threads, Threadlocker 262, and retorque to 150-165 ft lbs

If the comp nut is tight, they suggested it may be a clamp load issue. They recommend, "Try adding a 24033-70 shim under the head of the compensating nut (p/n 40392-91) and re-assemble as described above."

They also changed the torque spec from 150-165 ft lbs to basically torquing the comp nut to 75 ft lbs, then tightening an additional 45° - 50°, with a max of 50 °. This came out in a Service Bulletin, M-1170, dated 5/27/05.

Many experienced techs ignore the shim recommended by the MoCo. Any time they have to work on an early twin Cam Compensator, they just trim the comp nut bottom .030". That way it is a non-issue. If someone takes it apart, unfamiliar with TT122, they can just reassemble per the Service Manual. and they are golden. They don't have to find a shim, not mentioned in the Service Manual and wonder, what's with this shim? Should there should be a shim? Where is it supposed to go? etc, etc....
You're 100% correct, I forgot about the potential of the nut being too long.
 
The following users liked this post:
hattitude (Yesterday)
  #5  
Old Yesterday, 04:49 PM
hattitude's Avatar
hattitude
hattitude is offline
Seasoned HDF Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 11,731
Received 8,198 Likes on 4,405 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Ohio HD

You're 100% correct, I forgot about the potential of the nut being too long.

Yeah, I learned about it when you & other guys smarter than me, were discussing it several years ago on the HTT forum...
 
The following users liked this post:
Ohio HD (Yesterday)
  #6  
Old Yesterday, 04:53 PM
Rounders's Avatar
Rounders
Rounders is offline
Seasoned HDF Member
Join Date: Mar 2021
Location: backwoods
Posts: 12,986
Received 2,268 Likes on 1,797 Posts
Default

The shim was for low out put stators, like FLHR. O4 or o5 ish all touring bikes went to same size stator and rotor.
 
  #7  
Old Yesterday, 04:55 PM
Ohio HD's Avatar
Ohio HD
Ohio HD is offline
Road Captain
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Ohio
Posts: 746
Received 705 Likes on 394 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by hattitude
Yeah, I learned about it when you & other guys smarter than me, were discussing it several years ago on the HTT forum...
That would be my main man FSG.
 
The following users liked this post:
hattitude (Yesterday)
  #8  
Old Yesterday, 05:30 PM
hattitude's Avatar
hattitude
hattitude is offline
Seasoned HDF Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 11,731
Received 8,198 Likes on 4,405 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Rounders
The shim was for low out put stators, like FLHR. O4 or o5 ish all touring bikes went to same size stator and rotor.
That's a different shim. It's #6 in the first diagram I posted.

The shim we are talking about, which is discussed in the TT122, goes under the head of the comp bolt, so it doesn't bottom out and have stacking issues.... it's labelled "shim" in the 2nd diagram I posted.
 
The following users liked this post:
Ohio HD (Yesterday)
  #9  
Old Yesterday, 05:34 PM
Rounders's Avatar
Rounders
Rounders is offline
Seasoned HDF Member
Join Date: Mar 2021
Location: backwoods
Posts: 12,986
Received 2,268 Likes on 1,797 Posts
Default

I am on a phone. But just wanted to post there are different shims.
 
The following users liked this post:
hattitude (Yesterday)
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
wolfryder
Softail Models
4
04-24-2023 06:34 AM
dynamac
Dyna Glide Models
24
02-15-2022 01:42 PM
bdavis385
Softail Models
2
06-27-2021 03:28 PM
flyboyron
General Harley Davidson Chat
50
10-28-2015 06:48 PM
72 svlhd
Dyna Glide Models
28
01-02-2010 10:55 PM



Quick Reply: Compensator issues



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:24 PM.