If you want the short version, just go to number 15.

1. Thanks everyone for the knowledge that is shared here. It has helped this guy convert from metric

2. I have a 2012 herritage with 24k miles that a bought 2 years ago stock with slip ons. It has always occasionally had the engine light come on for a couple minutes. I admittedly ignored it.

3. Bike started stalling at stop lights and stop signs

4. I searched here for an answer and found that cleaning the air intake with throttle body cleaner fixed my problem (thanks again)

5. When riding to work last week in 85 degree weather, a red light came on the speedo shortly after I got on the expressway. It stayed on till I got off the expressway going lower speeds. It did not come on during the ride home when the weather was 75 degrees.

6. The next day, step five repeated itself exactly

7. Here I learned about how to check codes

8. My bike was giving the following ECM codes

P0118 - ET sensor high open says one list (supposed solution: ET sensor diagnostics)

P1356 - Rear cylinder no Combustion says one list

P1632 - One list says "Odometer Learned up" and another says "High Idle."

It also showed pn 001118-01

9. Cleared the codes

10: Started bike for 20 seconds and turned it off. Bike throws only P0118 and Pn-00118-01. I guess cleaning the air intake took care of the other 2? I’m not sure how old those codes were though.

11: Changed 2 year old spark plugs. No change

12. Rode 10 miles at highway speed in 75 degree weather to try and get the red light or other codes to come on again. No addition codes thrown, but check engine light came on for the first 2 minutes of the bike being on.

13. Cleared codes

14. This morning, I started bike up for 30 seconds. All codes gone this time and no check engine light came on, but the pn 001118-01 remains and has never gone away. Not sure there is a way to clear that?

!5: This afternoon, just turning the ignition switch on turns on the check engine light and throws P0118

Anyone have a clue what is going on with my bike?

 

Your keyboard is stuck on bold, give our eyes a break please...

How old is the battery?

Before chasing codes, make sure the battery is fully charged and in good working condition.

Pull the battery, charge it fully, take it to an auto parts store and have them load test it.

While the battery is out, remove the cables and clean the terminals, and the contact surfaces they connect to.

Once you know the battery is in good working order and the connections are clean and secure you can start troubleshooting.

 

Congratulations on your first post to HDF, to the Forum.


1. Check the wiring to your engine temperature circuit, check to see if the wire is disconnected from the temp switch. Could be a bad switch also.

PN does not go away, it is just part of the engine code process.

 

sorry. I did not realize the bold was I. The battery is less than 2 years old and is always on the tender.

Coolbreeze, I'll try and figure out your diagram there.

 

coolbreeze, is that the thing that is plugged into the front cylinder that is accessed by taking off the horn? If so, how do I get to the other end of the wire?

 

I'm not as cool as CoolBreeze3646 , but I can help you with that question....

Here is the pic of the ET on my old 103" engine. The wires plug right into the sensor itself... You disconnect the wires, and a socket will fit over the sensor and let you remove it to test and/or replace it..





Here is the ET on the crate engine in my bagger now. You can see it's a simple electrical connector that comes down from the frame under the fuel tank. If you remove the horn, it will give you unfettered access...

 

hattitude. Yes, I'm seeing that with a black and green wire attached with a simple clip. I dunno how to test it, but I can't image it's expensive to replace. Really thin and somewhat exposed are those green and black ones. I wonder how hard it is to find the other end to do a continuity test or do you pretty much think it's this sensor gone bad probably due to heat exposure?

Anyways, it seems like the feeling is my engine isn't actually overheating. It's the sensor or the wiring yeah?

 

It is always possible that the wires somehow got compromised. The tank is pretty easy to remove, if you want to get a good look at the wires. Also inspect the connector well when you disassemble it, looking for corroded or bent pins/contacts...

I don't have a schematic in front of me, but I would assume the temp sensor wires go a certain pins in the ECM connector. Find out which ones, disconnect the ECM connector, and you can do a continuity test..

You can also test the temp sensor. It's about $45 to get a new one... FYI... the torque for installing the temp sensor is 120-180 in lbs....

Only you can decide if you'd rather test or just buy a new one...

In case you want to test the temp sensor, here is how I understand it...

The engine temp sensor is a thermistor that changes its resistance based on temp. The ECM doesn't measure the resistance but rather sends a 5 volt charge through the sensor (IIRC). The ECM then measures the change in voltage as it's affected by the change in resistance. You can remove the temp sensor and check it based on its change of resistance, but you would need to have a known temp source to tell if it is being accurate.... The temp sensor can change resistance, but if it doesn't do it according to the chart below, the ECM won't interpret it correctly, and it is considered to be faulty...

I sure hope I explained that simply enough, and remembered it correctly... If not, I welcome someone to correct me...

Here is the chart from an early electrical diagnostic manual (2000 I think..?). I saved the pic from an online post about testing the engine temp sensor. It shows the temp C/resistance/voltage/ temp F of a properly functioning engine temp sensor... It wasn't from one of my manuals, so I don't know what the penciled in information refers to..





I hope some of this helps.... Good luck with your diagnosis and repair...

 

thank you all. Everyone seems to be on the same page and you have shown me what to do. I'll probably do a continuity test and if that is fine, i'll buy a new sensor.

*buys everyone a round