Hello again . I have a new question that I think I know the answer already but need to ask anyway.
2012 103 FB
Would like to adjust idle down a hair.
I understand it needs to run a little high for oil circulation and cooling.
Maybe its perfect but I'm not sure what perfect is.
My cold start up rpms are around 1450 and my low idle after warm up and riding is around 980.
Is that normal? Understand I'm coming off a 48 pan that could almost idle on 1 cylinder so I'm not used to the difference.
Also not used to the big clunk when putting it into gear at that rpm.
Usually I wont start riding until the idle drops to 1000 but sometimes like in front of a restaurant or somewhere I just don't want to stand there waiting.
So is this a normal range? Because its Fuel Injected only can be adjusted by dealer?
I would like the warm idle to be 850ish but don't want to hurt the motor.
Thanks in advance for your help.

 

Just curious.... What's the significance of idle at 850ish....? What do you ge there, that you don't get at say 950 rpm....???

The spec for idle on a twin cam engine is 950-1050 rpm....

Any lower and the charging circuit won't keep up with demand of the ECM, ignition coil, and fuel pump of an EFI engine during excessive idle situations. On the carbed bikes, it may cause the oil flow to drop below recommended parameters....

Not sure I get the need for people to drop the idle below the recommended limits.... A twin cam will never sound like my old shovel heads, so embrace the engine's sound.

I have a 2003 Heritage with a 95" big bore kit, that idled at spec with the kit's SE203 cams, and sounded pretty cool at idle... When I upgraded the cam chest, I went to A26 conversion cams, and it still sounds pretty cool at idle, staying within spec... I'd probably have to lower the idle to dangerously low levels (500-600 rpm) before it would sound like my old shovels.... Not worth it, IMHO....

Good luck with your decision...

 

Well there is my answer and a pretty detailed one at that. Thanks. I didnt know the specs on the design. To answer your question of what Im seeking from 850rpm vs 980rpm was maybe a bit more of say a relaxed idle that would also maybe take some of the bang out of getting it in 1st gear. But again your answer covers all my concerns and I understand the difference in engine design from a pan that could live on 5psi of oil pressure at 400rpm vs this twin cam that needs 950 to survive itself. I also am fascinated by hit n miss engines at the tractor shows ...so that may tell you something right there. 980 is normal and I will get use to it. Thanks.

 

That bang into 1st gear at 950 rpm can possibly be lessened by maybe a different primary fluid and clutch adjustment. Also hold the clutch lever in for a minute or two and maybe excercise it a bit before dropping it into gear. I have a Energy One Extra Plate Kit on my TC88B and run B&M Trick Shift fluid. Mine sometimes doesn't clunk at all. Other times it's waay quieter than it was with the stock setup. When I back it out of the garage I hold the clutch in with the motor not running and that seems to help pre lube the plates some. Don't go below 950rpms on the idle, they're not meant to. And yeah, you can't the idle without a tuner.

 

I will look into the fluid situation thanks.

 

I'd suggest adjusting the clutch if you're having a problem with banging into first gear.

 

Ok. I will look at the clutch adjustment. Thanks

 

B&M trick shift works for me as well.

 

If you want to take bang out of first gear cold engagement, Start the bike in neutral with the clutch pulled in and holding it in.. . After it idles a few seconds, as soon as you notice it idling down, back push it with your butt a few inches back and forth.

Bip the throttle a few times and as RPM drops all the while from start, drop it in first. Each bike is a little different but if the clutch is adjusted so you have proper back off, and not too much play, primary oil at bottom of clutch diaphragm spring and not just amount and Formula Plus non-detergent gear oil, it will not bang when you learn proper few seconds to do what I say.

In fact, you can actually overdo it and if transmission gears stop completely from breaking the oil windage in the clutch disk, it won't even go in. If that happens while learning, just pull in the clutch again, pop it back in neutral, and hit it again.

Leave idle alone. It's set for overall cases. It will get lubrication even below that but in certain damp cool conditions, ECM can miss keeping up with idle and it may stall on fast stops. And unless you have a tuner, idle is not adjustable. The stop on the throttle body is a factor set. It and the IAC or throttle by wire motor work with each other.

However, the ECM has the last say, so trying to adjust throttle body is not an answer. Other then screwing up the factory set position of the butterfly. And I have never seen that anywhere in a service manual on how to set it back correctly. Most adjustments on throttle stop is hidden behind a plug anyway in the face behind the air filter box .

 

Roger that.⤴️