I have a 1991 Softail Springer. It has been sumping and puking oil for about 5 years now and I am getting tired of fooling with it. So I decided to change the check ball and spring in the oil pump since I am pretty sure that's where the problem is. The screw to get to the check ball is super tight and has a non-standard slot. I don't want to bugger it up getting it out. Can anyone give me some ideas on how to get it out of there?
Thanks.

 

I only did one. I have a stubby heavy duty screw driver with a wrench hex.

Bet you find steel ball is fine. It's the aluminum seat. I tapped ball with a maple dowel using a hammer.

If it's really bad, hotmelt stick the old ball to the dowel and touch it with a dab of Clover medium lapping compound. Then tap new ball.

Be sure to use carb cleaner spray to get it clean.

 

Drag link socket.

 

Spring gets weak behind the check ball and over time the seat can lose seal from the ball rattling around and deforming it ever so slightly. Change the spring & ball first to see if that helps your issue. If not there's way to deal with it but it's involved, takes a bit to explain the whole procedure.

If you don't have the drag link socket I've cut a quarter with a hacksaw then used a crescent wrench before to pop the cap. Redneck I know but worked

 

Hey guys, Thanks for the replies. I was hoping to get this job done without taking out the oil pump so I probably won't do the lapping the first time around. I like the drag link socket. Do these things come in various sizes, if so, what size should I get? I am going to do the spring and ball first. Also probably put a ball down in there and tap it into the seat.

 

You don't indicate mileage. I played the tap, lap game on my 96 Springer and none of it worked. If you tap it, replace the ball with an OEM ball, don't reuse the one you just tried to fix the seat with. Ended up putting an S & S pump on it, problem solved. If you don't ride often dumping may happen? I made my tool to remove the screw. Good luck.

 

My Springer has just under 50,000 miles, like 49,800 or so. I am too lazy today to go out and check. Yes I am going to get a new ball. It use to be that the bike could sit for two weeks or so before oil came out the air cleaner. Now it will do it after one week unless I at least start it up and run it a while. I have gotten in the habit of running a hose from the pipe from the sumped oil and letting it go in a jar. Then I put it back in the bike. It's usually 6 to 10oz.

 

That's way too much even for a bad spring unless it's actually broken. I'd be suspecting the seat for the ball is badly damaged or cracked. Get you head around a pump replacement this winter, that is not going to be a simple fix with that kinda loss regular.

 

Where exactly is oil coming from? My TC, an 04 use to set a month at most while I was on vacation way South. Retired in 2012 and it set 4 months. (retired people on Medicare and SS don't call it vacation, it's just another day) Then I noticed mine drains down to add on stick. Then COVID-19, it set a while and emptied the tank.

it actually took couple trips around 4 blocks circling back before it got it all back. It's only recovering 20% more then it's putting out

But it didn't puke any. Which I was concerned it might. Even posted a post before running it How come?

 

Completely different animals and oil system configurations, nothing on you twinkie relates to the older system.