I know that. Not the answer I was looking for. On the EVO, that ball check keeps oil flow from reversing when it's not running. Mine is the O-ring in oilpump.. My vents are in valve covers. Even the later EVO got that vent in head but kept the timed breather valve.

Just wondered were oil came out. Does this one have the lower vent hose coming off case and that much excess oil in case gets below vent?

Know when I started mine, I was concerned about pistons coming down was going to blast oil up and out my SE open filter. It didn't and after a few minutes since it was taking so long, I climbed on and just kept rpm low.
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I need to correct the amount of oil that I said comes out when it's puking oil. I went out to the garage and looked at the container I collect the oil in when I hook the hose up and let the oil go into the jar instead of the air cleaner. It ranges from 5oz to 6.25oz. Never has it been 10oz.
To answer Ripsaw, there is a 4" rubber hose that comes out from the bottom of the engine right down by the bottom of the oil pump. That connects to a metal pipe for another 5" then that connects to the air cleaner housing. I just disconnect the metal pipe from the air cleaner, hook up another hose to that then into the jar to collect the oil. Then start the engine. This saves a lot of time cleaning up oil on the floor and all over the bike. I have been doing this for about 8 years now. It's time to fix it.

 

I used a tool I made out of an old chisel to get the plug out. I don't see anything wrong with the ball. I ordered 3 new ***** and a spring last night. I am going to tap the old ball into the seat before putting in a new ball and the new spring. Hoping for the best.

 

Thanks. Add some pictures to your post.

 

I'd leave it alone, the seat area down in there is very thin and depending on the machining during that batch run of bodies it's extremely easy to crack the ball seat. Replaced a fair number of oil pumps & bodies suffering from that.

You can deal with it till cold sets in and you can pull the pump you hand lap the seat. The ball end on a stock evo solid push rod is the same diameter as the check ball, makes a nice lapping tool for that.

 

Well, I went ahead and tapped a new ball into the seat (gently), dropped in another new ball and the new spring and filled it up with oil.. I had also ordered a new derby cover O-ring and some RTV gasket maker because I had a leak there too. I had to wait a little over a week for that to come in. So the bike sat there for all that time, not started. After I got the derby cover re-sealed and waited another day for the RTV to cure I cleaned up the engine and the bottom of the bike then hooked up my puke catcher, just in case. Started the bike and, alright, no oil puking from the sump. Looks like I might have fixed that. I went for a 10 mile ride to get the bike good and hot, put it back in the garage on a fresh piece of cardboard. Not one drop of oil. So far it looks like a fix. I need to let the bike sit for three weeks, (wont be easy this time of the year) to see if I get any sumping then I will be happy. I appreciate all the advice and encouragement, Thanks.

 

Too cool. Check back in 30 more years if you need any more help.

 

30 more years will in all likely hood outlast me.

 

I plan on being here.. I only be 103!??? ..

 

Keeping the vent hose connected to the air cleaner is not a good idea. That last thing you want to put into your intake is hot, wet oil laden air. Run the hose under the bike as far back as you can but not under the rear tire. Some guys add a catch can that needs to be emptied now and then. On start up just put something down to catch the oil and no mess. This would simplify your life.