So i have a plethora of problems that seem to be able to come from anywhere, and frankly ive googled and forum searched for 2 weeks guys and i give. time to ask for help, sorry to bother yall.
real quick, 2012 FLSTFB. V&H exhaust, Andrews 57H cams, heavy breather, PC-V. -15k miles.

Problem started with an intermediate battery light while goin down the road. blip the throttle, goes away. Started trickle charging it, wouldnt do it for days then it would start again. and it has progressively got worse. I have poured over my wires, checked for shorts, loose connections, found none. Bike also developed a "hiccup" at a random spot between 3-4k rpm while running down the road. Like its missing, not back firing or dieing but what would sorta be like a rev limit miss but its between 3-4k. So with the both of those i removed the PC-V and ran on the ECM only. No change. still batt light. still hiccup.

Did the system check. 12.3-7 across battery bike off. 13 bike on at idle, 14+ at 2k rpm. Stator not grounded, ohm'd out good, sends voltage with bike running, derby cover off- no dead cat smell, just amsoil. Check regulator. looks like a dirty prong on my 3-phase side. replaced regulator cause to hell with it. Maybe fixing this intermediate light and the hiccup might be related. took it our for a ride, just seems worse after simple regulator change.

Simple 15 mile ride, between 40-70, never needed 6th. goin with throttle, it seems fine. no problems to speak of. But its when i coast. idle sounds choppy, dont know if thats because of my cams with no tune now. but as im doin say 40, pull in clutch and coast. goes down to idle, slowly rises to 1400 rpm, then drops back to idle. Tried to die on me as well, threw a check engine light that quickly went away as i pulled in my clutch to round a corner. I mean, no battery light this time, but i didnt really travel much to try and produce it cause the weird idle scares the hell outta me.

none of these symptoms show when its idling in the drive way of course. the 3 codes i get are o2 rich on front and back, and odometer learned up. the only 3 codes i got from this ride. Ive read it could be my IAC, someone got these symptoms fixed with a "idle tentioner" replacement, which i cant find in my 600+ page manual anywhere so i have no idea what the hell they were talking about, ive got a new fuel filter and line cause im going to check that as well. But instead of googling myself to death ill just ask yall what do you think. hopefully i covered everything, if not ill be here to answer anything, chain smoking and shaking my head at my bike.

 

Something worth trying .. Get yourself a can of throttle body cleaner and place a rag inside to catch all the fluid and crud . Spray up inside the iac ( you can cycle it by ign on / off ) . This may correct your issue or possibly improve it . Also , clean your connectors with some electrical contact cleaner , corrosion can do funny things .

If you can , test for fuel pressure , should be between 50 - 60 psi . But honestly I think your issue is in your iac , give it shot .

 

Thank you. checkin for that pin hole in the line and cleaning my IAC is the next to do items along with getting my battery load tested to rule it completely out. Im gonna thoroughly clean the IAC once i drain the tank and take it off to do the filter, givin me access to the intake mod, go over those conections and wires under the tank.

 

welp, heres the filter and IAC. now, i dont have much experience with motorcycle fuel filters but id say that is done-zo. it actually looks worse than this pic shows.

 

test ride went ok. no weird rpm numbers this time. no battery code either. found a fault with my throttle cables that may have caused the weird numbers while coasting so im confident in that aspect.

still throwing p0132 and p0152 rich codes despite not plugging the tuner back in and running straight on the stock ecm.

one thing i did notice is it does not like 2k rpms while taking it slow. not back firing but that weird popping chug sound from the exhaust that is either A- because of the rich condition thats not going away or B- stock tune with 57h cams.

is a constant rich code from the o2's a sign they theyre caput? or is there something else i should check? figured the ecm would correct them when running but has yet to do so.

 

If I'm misunderstanding this line, please forgive me...

Are you actually running the stock, OEM tune, on a bike that now has 57h cams.... ??????

If so, THAT"S YOUR PROBLEM...... and you could be doing damage to your engine running it that way....

Some will say you can change the air filter, and exhaust, without a new tune... which I will debate and disagree with... but if you change cams.. YOU ABSOLUTELY NEED A NEW TUNE.... PERIOD!

I won't even start a bike I've changed cams on, without at least a canned map downloaded to the ECM from a reputable tuner, for the cam/engine combo I'm working on....

Good luck with the fix....

 

I just reread this entire thread....

I see you started out with a PCV5, which is a piggy back tune device I believe....

You had some problems and removed it... and now you still haven't addressed the tune...

Is that correct....?

If so.... whatever else was going on... the bike will never run right without addressing the tune... you need to have that bike tuned....

At the very least, if the PCV5 was set up for the A57 cams, put it back on and see what happens.... If it starts to run well, then you'll know you addressed the issue with some of your work (IAC cleaning, new fuel filter, etc), but you couldn't tell because you had an improper tune in your engine for the current mods....

What can happen with those piggyback tune devices, is they can fail... and cause all sorts of random issues... all from improper AFR, and/or timing... If you just remove it... you won't know if it was the the tuner, without adding a proper tune to the ECM....

Removing a piggyback tuner to see if it has gone bad is an acceptable practice with STAGE I mods (air cleaner/exhaust) only.... Once you also change cams or more... it will not run right with a bad piggyback tuner OR no piggy back tuner....

Address the tune before going any further or running the bike... if you are running rich... you could be real rich, which can wash the cylinder walls and lead to piston ring/cylinder wall damage pretty quick...

Again... If I've misunderstood how this has gone down, and you're not running on the stock OEM tune... please forgive my poor reading comprehension...

 

alright, i have gotten much conflited advice from several people in person but only here i am getting consistancy.

yes i removed the tuner to root it out, as the 1 thing i have been told over and over is "tuners are a crap shoot".

yes i rode it without the tuner to check if the battery problem was resolved. again, bad info. it wasnt far and i wasnt stunt ridin, just checking. so now my next step will be to get it tuned on its own ECM, no piggy back crap. which will be done by an independent cause the HD dealer here is a damn travesty.

im kinda alone in this endeavor so i appreciate the clarification.

 

Agree with hattitude on this one , before you run your bike again , get yourself a PV or have the bike Dyno'd . I'm not a fan of piggy back tuners , but your bike definitely needs something other than the stock tune to run properly .

 

yea ive already begun the process of takin the jugs off to be sure. i should have quit from the start but im a neurotic moron for takin half advice in the first place so this is what i get.