changing the handle bar with out replacing the cables
#11
12-06-2018 | 06:59 AM
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6th Gear
Joined: Dec 2018
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From: Saudi Arabia
I’m not gone, i didn’t have the time to do it since I don’t have the right tools on me and i was busy changing the two tires at the stealership .. it did cost me 880$ for the tires onle so you can imagine how much for the handlebars.. that’s why I’m asking if anybody did do it because the dealership here is beyond bad and he will do anything that will charg me more
Last edited by abdulrahman; 12-06-2018 at 07:03 AM.
#12
12-06-2018 | 07:02 AM
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6th Gear
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From: Saudi Arabia
The wires from the factory generally have additional slack so you can make minor modifications without changing everything. The other issue is your Hollywood bars are probably wide, so if you go to a higher bar but narrow you may be all good. We changed the stock bars on my brother-in-laws Fatboy, put the factory mini apes from my Wide Glide on the bike, nothing needed to be changed, did it in 20 minutes. Again because we went from low and wide to tall and narrow. Good luck.
#13
12-06-2018 | 08:31 AM
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Joined: Dec 2014
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From: SWFL
I’m not sure I see how any set of bars could be changed in 20 minutes, unless the wires are run externally, then sure. That said, if the 2014 softails used the smaller new canbus connectors, and no TBW, then its only the left and right control packs that need to be pulled, and those connectors can be left on. Easiest way is to get some thin chain and tie some paracord-like cord to one end. Then gravity can be used to slide the chain through the bar to the opening at the end. Once it’s pulled through to the cord, just tape the control wire to the cord. I use electrical tape. I found using electrical cable pull lube makes a huge difference in sliding the cables through the bars. If you can find this (or similar) it’s well worth the cost. Just slather it on the cable after you’ve taped it to the pull cord and it dries leaving no harmful residue. Good luck.
Good luck
Good luck
#14
12-06-2018 | 09:42 AM
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,989
Likes: 6,449
From: Beyond Fucital
8"-10" is considered MINI.
But some consider 12" MINI.
I had 10" and was going to go to 12" but in a different style.
Once they arrived and I held then in place I realized going the extra inch was a waist of time, so I went to 14".
I did internal wiring and had to extend the wiring plus new cables.
Did it myself, and I enjoy it. The bars were $130, wiring extension kit was $40, crimp tool was $35, crimps were $10, cables were $90.
Then there's the misc. stuff, soldier, heat shrink, Transmission fluid, exhaust gaskets.
But I got away cheap doing it myself. With not having all the parts and having to order and wait for parts to come in, it took me 2 weeks start to finish.
But some consider 12" MINI.
I had 10" and was going to go to 12" but in a different style.
Once they arrived and I held then in place I realized going the extra inch was a waist of time, so I went to 14".
I did internal wiring and had to extend the wiring plus new cables.
Did it myself, and I enjoy it. The bars were $130, wiring extension kit was $40, crimp tool was $35, crimps were $10, cables were $90.
Then there's the misc. stuff, soldier, heat shrink, Transmission fluid, exhaust gaskets.
But I got away cheap doing it myself. With not having all the parts and having to order and wait for parts to come in, it took me 2 weeks start to finish.
#15
12-06-2018 | 01:23 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 8,156
Likes: 5,535
From: Long Island, New York
I’m not sure I see how any set of bars could be changed in 20 minutes, unless the wires are run externally, then sure. That said, if the 2014 softails used the smaller new canbus connectors, and no TBW, then its only the left and right control packs that need to be pulled, and those connectors can be left on. Easiest way is to get some thin chain and tie some paracord-like cord to one end. Then gravity can be used to slide the chain through the bar to the opening at the end. Once it’s pulled through to the cord, just tape the control wire to the cord. I use electrical tape. I found using electrical cable pull lube makes a huge difference in sliding the cables through the bars. If you can find this (or similar) it’s well worth the cost. Just slather it on the cable after you’ve taped it to the pull cord and it dries leaving no harmful residue. Good luck.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Good luck
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Good luck
#16
12-06-2018 | 01:24 PM
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 8,156
Likes: 5,535
From: Long Island, New York
#17
12-06-2018 | 01:27 PM
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Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 10,537
Likes: 3,542
From: SWFL
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