Ok everyone, so i picked up a heritage classic in the spring and this is the first bike ive had with spoked rims in roughly 30 years. The bike is a 2010 model, around 5k miles on it when i bought it. When i brought it home i noticed the front end was banging a bit when i hit hard bumps and the fork had a bit more dive in it then i would have liked. I changed the tires (yes they were balanced), fork oil, greased the steering head bearing and adjusted the fallaway as it was way out of spec. Now, the bike rode much better after all that, but it still seemed like it wanted to wander a little bit going down the road. No wobble in the bars mind you, just felt like it didnt want to track a straight line without having to make small little adjustments on the bars. I put the bike back up on the lift to check the bearings and i dont have any play in either rim. I checked the spokes with the ping test and i have some that were loose, but on some of the ones that did ping, the tones sounded completely different on a few of the spokes. Not wanting to make a ton of adjustments, I just tightened up the few that were really loose just enough so that they tinged. Now, when i spin the tires on the lift the rear seems pretty decent, but i have some side to side movement in the front. Its not a lot, but its noticeable. Im just not sure how much (if any) play is normal. Just wondering if anyone can chime in on if that play in the front rim is normal and if the rim should need to be trued already with so few miles on it. Is it possible the steering head being so far out of adjustment could have caused some of the issues?

 

It is likely to be the spoke adjustment. Somewhat of an art but even a first timer can get it true with some patience. Spin the wheel slowly when you come to to a high spot stop and tap the spoke if it sounds tight back the spoke off about a 1/4 turn at the most. Come to a low spot and the spoke sounds dead tighten it about a 1/4 turn.

Keep going time after time gradually bring the rim into true. This is assuming that the rim is in center. A rim can be true but running right or left of center. There is a truing machine that when the rim is mounted in it, the rim will be in the center position and when the rim is true to that then it is also at the center. But it cost a fortune.

If there is hop (the rim moves up and down just to the same with high and low spots but turning two spokes opposing spokes at the same time and amount.

It is possible to get a rim within a couple of thousands.

I have trued many rims in the past 40 years. The art is in sensing what the spokes need. I had a recall on a Ural rim a few years back and took the rim to the dealer. A few weeks later I went to pick it up and he said it wasn't done because the guy he calls in was not available yet. I said just give me the rim,spokes and nipples that I would do it myself. He was happy to. It seems that even at motorcycle dealer wheel truing is a lost art. Had that wheel up and running in about an hour.

 

One of my first jobs at an HD shop was assembling spoke wheels.
It is no big trick.
just read the directions
One over three?
or was it four?
Then keep adjusting until it is right.
Pay no attn to a tone.

 

Thanks guys, Im going to put the bike on my lift on the next day off and give it a shot.

 

The dealers have a special tool you use with a torque wrench. It is damned expensive. But that sounds like the way to go. That listening for a certain ring sound method is too subjective to suit me. Maybe if you have done it for years but not for a novice. JMO.

 

They have special spoke wrenches....Not sure of the torq wrench...

 

They have a special socket to use with a torque wrench. Sorry for the confusion. If my memory is correct its over 100 bucks.

 

I dont think they did 40 years ago...........
But everything is safe circle, OSHA approved any more.
Moorons