I'm not new to a wrench, I can adjust my wifes shovel just fine, but this is a first on my TC88. I know how to tighten the cable, but when I get the derby cover off which one is the pushrod adjuster bolt?
I see the big chrome nut in the middle and I'm assuming that the pushrod bolt is in the middle. how do I loosen the nut? when I turn it all that happens is my clutch turns.

thanks

 

I'll give you a bump, b/c I know there are some guys on here who can help. It is Friday, everyone may be out partying.

 

You need a special tool that locks the main primary gear the clutch is bolted to that locks it up that way you can break the main bolt loose.
If I remember right, the tool is like a block that fits in between that main gear and the chain and when you turn the main nut it acts as a lock preventing it from turning. Not near my service manual now but it explains the whole procedure.

 

invest in the fix my hog dvd from one of the folks who list on this site it will show you in detail along with other good general maintenance segments

 

On the cable adjuster (behind the rubber boot) adjust until you have considerable free play on the lever.

Pull the derby cover, hold the adjusting screw in placeusing a 7/32" allen wrench and back off the locking nut about a turnwith an offset wrench (I found the 17mm to fit best).

Turn the adjusting screw in until it lightly seats and back out about 5/8ths of a turn. The book states 1/2 to 1 turn but I prefer to keep it on the lower end. One thing though, if you get it toclose (1/2 turn out)it might slip when the clutch is cold, thats why I usually go 5/8ths of a turn out.

I will seat the adjusting screw and turn out several times to find the sweet spot and manipulate the clutch several times after each adjustment to ensure the ball and ramp release is seated.

 

What 2kflhr said, only I do a little over 1/2 turn. I like my clutch tight so that it begins to release with the slightest pull on the lever. It is very important to slack the adjuster all the way before adjusting the clutch and, without a special tool, holding the adjuster while tightening the locknut can be tricky. It's a tuff angle to use a wrench so there are two options:
1. heat and bend the box end of a wrench.
2. weld a bar on to a socket. Insert the allen through the squared in the back of the socket (preffered).
I don't remember the exact size of the locknut, but I know it's not metric.
If you leave the bike in gear with the rear wheel on the ground, the clutch basket should not rotate while performing the adjustment.

 

thanks guys, I appreciate the help. I was at work doin this the other day & didn't have me manual w/ me

 

You aren't remembering right. You are describing the procedure for removing the compensator nut.