Fatboy wont start
#11
#12
#15
My local dealer thinks so too .. sadly i need to order it from the states ( im stationed in Thailand now ) and the locals want liks $700 for just the part and 5 weeks in shipping .
i can get it quicker just sucks im out of a bike till then
also .. their not overly confident ( may just be the Thai culture ) but they say bec they cant start the bike this "May be the issue "
So F me .. i guess its a crap shoot ... plus side is .. labor is dirt cheap here so install and program will cost me around $100
but if anyone has any other ideas on what else i can look at while im waiting on a part .. please let me know
i can get it quicker just sucks im out of a bike till then
also .. their not overly confident ( may just be the Thai culture ) but they say bec they cant start the bike this "May be the issue "
So F me .. i guess its a crap shoot ... plus side is .. labor is dirt cheap here so install and program will cost me around $100
but if anyone has any other ideas on what else i can look at while im waiting on a part .. please let me know
#16
Pull the solenoid cover off. Should be 3 screws. Hit run switch so fuel pump primes. Make sure you are in Neutral. Then press the rubber boot in the solenoid with a screw driver to start it. It should crank and start without the use of the start button, starter relay, and all the wiring in between.
similar to this except I added a solenoid cover with button.
https://youtu.be/P8RKB_6lYpY
similar to this except I added a solenoid cover with button.
https://youtu.be/P8RKB_6lYpY
#17
Is the code historic or current?
Does your engine light come on, then go off and then come back on for approx 4-8 seconds..and then go out and stay off? If so does it then come back on each time you try pushing the start button?
Other than it not starting , do all the other functions of each switch gear pack operate correctly, especially the left side as this seems the side with the damaged wiring. I'd assume you used speedo diagnostics and diagnosed a B2121 trouble code.
Does the wiring at the headstock on the right side of the bike seem okay or does it also look like it's getting hooked up on the lock stop?
If you look down at your starter motor under the oil tank you'll see a single red/black wire going into the side of the starter motor body.
Disconnect this wires one pin connector from the starter and use a dvom on a 20 volt DC scale (if not auto ranging).
Hold the red dvom lead to that wire and the black dvom wire to the negative post on the battery whilst check for battery equivalent voltage while pressing the starter button.
You should see battery voltage and this would indicate that the BCM is sending power to the starter to turn over.
If you are not seeing 12 plus volts then this would be a strong indication of a faulty BCM or damage on that red /black wire.
Is the bike still under warranty?
You should ask the shop if you can be put on stand by if a pre booked customer misses their slot or cancels.
Does your engine light come on, then go off and then come back on for approx 4-8 seconds..and then go out and stay off? If so does it then come back on each time you try pushing the start button?
Other than it not starting , do all the other functions of each switch gear pack operate correctly, especially the left side as this seems the side with the damaged wiring. I'd assume you used speedo diagnostics and diagnosed a B2121 trouble code.
Does the wiring at the headstock on the right side of the bike seem okay or does it also look like it's getting hooked up on the lock stop?
If you look down at your starter motor under the oil tank you'll see a single red/black wire going into the side of the starter motor body.
Disconnect this wires one pin connector from the starter and use a dvom on a 20 volt DC scale (if not auto ranging).
Hold the red dvom lead to that wire and the black dvom wire to the negative post on the battery whilst check for battery equivalent voltage while pressing the starter button.
You should see battery voltage and this would indicate that the BCM is sending power to the starter to turn over.
If you are not seeing 12 plus volts then this would be a strong indication of a faulty BCM or damage on that red /black wire.
Is the bike still under warranty?
You should ask the shop if you can be put on stand by if a pre booked customer misses their slot or cancels.
#18
Just seen the bit about being in Thailand and multiple codes.
Firstly, clear all the codes and then see what ones come back, if any.
If you're prepared to do a bit of fiddling yourself while waiting for new parts, then....
Then you could run a jumper wire off of the battery positive terminal and touch it against that black/red wire that goes to the starter. This basically bypasses the start button which sends a Canbus message to the BCM telling it to provide power on that red/black wire to energise the starter.
If this allows the bike to start and all other functions operate normally, Then you could semi-permanently use that wire each time you wished to start the bike.
Use a ring terminal to hook it up to the battery positive.
Just be very aware that this wire is connected to battery positive and needs to be carefully insulated while you aren't using it!
Firstly, clear all the codes and then see what ones come back, if any.
If you're prepared to do a bit of fiddling yourself while waiting for new parts, then....
Then you could run a jumper wire off of the battery positive terminal and touch it against that black/red wire that goes to the starter. This basically bypasses the start button which sends a Canbus message to the BCM telling it to provide power on that red/black wire to energise the starter.
If this allows the bike to start and all other functions operate normally, Then you could semi-permanently use that wire each time you wished to start the bike.
Use a ring terminal to hook it up to the battery positive.
Just be very aware that this wire is connected to battery positive and needs to be carefully insulated while you aren't using it!
#19
If the lights work and you an hear the Fuel Pump priming for a few seconds then stopping like it normally does.. then the BCM is not completely dead since the BCM is the one that powers the Fuel Pump.. codes below are from my Service Manual (if you don't have one, I highly recommend you get one... you can actually buy one in electronic PDF format online... tradebit website and others.. and it is a lot cheaper than getting it from the dealer.)
U0141: Lost communication with Left Hand Control Module
B2121: Starter Output Open
U0121: Lost Communication with ABS
B2274: Constant Battery Line Fault
U0100: Lost Communication with ECM
U0142: Lost communication with Right Hand Control Module
U0156: Lost Communication with Speedometer
By looking at the codes I can tell you have a lot of cabling communications issues.. it seems other cables are damaged.. but the truth is that I doubt the BCM is bad..
Also.. I would advice against jumping/bypassing the starter motor.. if you make a mistake you can actually be feeding 12Volts to the BCM signals and damage the BCM..
I hope this helps!!
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U0141: Lost communication with Left Hand Control Module
B2121: Starter Output Open
U0121: Lost Communication with ABS
B2274: Constant Battery Line Fault
U0100: Lost Communication with ECM
U0142: Lost communication with Right Hand Control Module
U0156: Lost Communication with Speedometer
By looking at the codes I can tell you have a lot of cabling communications issues.. it seems other cables are damaged.. but the truth is that I doubt the BCM is bad..
Also.. I would advice against jumping/bypassing the starter motor.. if you make a mistake you can actually be feeding 12Volts to the BCM signals and damage the BCM..
I hope this helps!!
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Last edited by joebotics; 04-14-2017 at 02:26 PM.
#20
A good point raised Joebotics. It would be better to remove the red/black connector at the starter as this would eliminate any chance of unwanted voltage being fed back into the BCM as it would no longer have a wire connecting back to the BCM. However as far as I'm concerned, once that is done, then jumping the starter shouldn't be an issue.
One of the things to be aware of with "U" codes is which module it is set against.
When a module is unable to communicate on the Canbus all the other modules will set a code against it as that module is unable to confirm its current condition. The only module I can see not showing a communication fault is the BCM which might suggest it was disconnected at some point.
When you go into speedo diagnostics what function tab, i.e. ECM, BCM etc are you under for each of these codes?
It might be that whilst the work was carried out to repair the left hand switch gear module wiring that the codes were set and this again could be confirmed by clearing them and seeing which ones come back.
One of the things to be aware of with "U" codes is which module it is set against.
When a module is unable to communicate on the Canbus all the other modules will set a code against it as that module is unable to confirm its current condition. The only module I can see not showing a communication fault is the BCM which might suggest it was disconnected at some point.
When you go into speedo diagnostics what function tab, i.e. ECM, BCM etc are you under for each of these codes?
It might be that whilst the work was carried out to repair the left hand switch gear module wiring that the codes were set and this again could be confirmed by clearing them and seeing which ones come back.