Thanks, Pitbull -- took your advice and pulled the battery out a couple o f days ago. Going to go get a new one and a tender with quick-release connectors.
Thanks to all for your advice!

 

Well -- brand new good $120 battery and the bike is still completely dead. That's what I was afraid of. No lights, no click from any switches. What should I check next? (Note that I have checked all the fuses in the fuse box right behind the battery itself, and they're all OK).
Thanks for your help . . .

 

Have you cleaned the ignition switch? Sometimes they get gummed up and need to be cleaned. There is a thread with pictures about cleaning the switch. Does not take long to do. Be careful not to lose the springs and copper contacts.

 

I did a quick search for "cleaning ignition switch" and couldn't find it . . .any ideas how I can find that post? Thanks.

I did find this:

 

Wow! I was so sure it was going to be your battery!! Have you checked the 30 amp circuit breaker? It's located in front of the rear tyre, covered by the plastic splash guard, and may have changed to a 40 amp maxi fuse on your model!! Good luck!

 

So you charged up your dead battery and got the lights and stuff to somewhat work. And then you replaced it with a new battery and nothing works. I'm thinking you either got a bad new battery, or you don't have a good ground connection on your battery. Also pull your system and starter relays and clean them and wiggle them a little when you put them back in. Then see if you get anything.

 

 

Easy test for this - jumper to your car battery and see if your lights are normal.

What is the voltage on the new battery when charged?

Not having full brightness on the lights is the symptom I would address first. If you have a strong battery and dim lights, I would start looking at bad ground.

Keep the information really clear. When you say nothing works, that should mean nothing - not any lights or any indication of power. And if that is changing, make sure that is stated - sometimes the lights are dim, sometimes they don't come on at all, for instance.

 

How to clean ignition switch.




Originally Posted by gtmalone


APPLICABLE YEAR/MODEL
Models with tank mounted, barrel key ignition switches


SPECIALTY TOOLS REQUIRED

circlip piers


1. TECHNICAL AREAS ADDRESSED

1.1 - Intermittent electrical problems can be caused by either a bad terminal connection on the ignition switch or a bad contact inside the ignition switch. Symptoms you may experience are as follows:

- runs rough or will not start
- speedometer, odometer and tachometer (factory) are not working
- various lighting circuits are not working
- complete power failure


2. HOW TO - IGNITION SWITCH SERVICE

2.1 - Disconnect the negative lead from the battery. This step is important to avoid a trip to the emergency room.

2.2 - Remove the console from the fuel tank. Disconnect all plugs and remove the trip reset switch from the console.

2.4 - Remove the ignition switch from the console.

2.5 - Remove the circlip from the back side of the ignition switch.

2.6 - Remove the plastic contactor ring from the switch. Be sure to capture the 3 springs and 3 contacts from inside the switch. See Figure 1.

2.7 - Pull the key lock assembly from the switch housing.

2.8 - Wipe the old grease from the switch housing. Clean the switch contacts and the switch terminals with fine sand paper. Wipe sand paper residue from the switch housing. Apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the internal contact areas. See Figure 2.

2.9 - Reassemble the contactor ring, contact springs and contacts. Apply a small amount of grease to the contacts. See Figure 3.

2.10 - Reassemble the ignition switch. Insert the key lock assembly into the switch housing. It will only fit one way. Make note of the positions of the contacts on the contactor ring. The two contacts close together go next to the switch terminals. Reinstall the contactor ring onto the switch housing. See Figure 4.
NOTE: This will be easier if you hold the switch housing in a mostly key side up position and reinstall the contactor ring from the bottom.

2.11 - Reinstall the ignition switch into the console.

At this point it is recommended to perform the steps in Section 3 - 3.3 through 3.6.

2.12 - Reconnect all wiring to the console. Reconnect the negative lead to the battery. Check that the ignition switch is working properly.

2.13 - Reinstall the console on the bike.


ALL DONE!



3. HOW TO - IGNITION SWITCH CONNECTOR SERVICE

3.1 - Disconnect the negative lead from the battery. This step is important to avoid a trip to the emergency room.

3.2 - Remove the console from the fuel tank.

3.1 - Make a note of which color wire connects to each ignition switch terminal.

3.2 - Remove the connector from the ignition switch.

3.3 - Extract the 3 spade connectors from the connector housing. There is a small tab on the spade connectors. Insert a pick or small jewelers screwdriver into the housing to press down on the tab while pulling the spade connector from the housing.
NOTE: If the housing is melted you may have to use wire cutters to cut away the plastic from the connectors.

3.4 - Clean the inside of the spade connectors with a paper nail file cut down to fit inside of the connector. Clean the switch terminals with fine sand paper.

3.5 - Push each spade connector onto the ignition switch. If any of the connectors feel loose, LIGHTLY squeeze the loops on each connector to tighten the grip. They should be slightly difficult to push onto the terminals.

3.6a - If the connector housing is usable, reinsert the spade connectors into the housing making note of their original positions. You may have to bend the tab on the spade connector for it to catch in the housing. Push the connector onto the ignition switch. It will only fit one way.

3.6b - If the connector housing was melted beyond use, put a short length of heat shrink tubing over each spade connector and heat to shrink. Push the spade connectors onto the proper switch terminals. Put some sort of label inside the console as a reminder. See Figure 5.

3.7 - Reconnect the negative lead to the battery. Check that the ignition switch is working properly.

3.8 - Reinstall the console on the bike.


ALL DONE!

 

So I started to take the ignition switch out to clean it and check its condition. Disconnected the battery ground per instructions (thanks tmilo) But I couldn't see anything obviously wrong with it, so before I messed it up anymore, I put the ground wire backon the battery and, just for grit-and-shins, turned the switch. Poof, everything came back to life.

I put the dash back together and hit the start switch. Vroom. Bike started up, but things are still not quite right. Check engine light is on intermittently. Bike cuts out here and there, especially when revved. When revved, the headlight, instead of it staying the same or getting brighter, it dimmed slightly. I'm going to run it out to a local shop in the morning, but any ideas you might have might be helpful. Thanks again for all your ideas and support!