So I grabbed a FP3 and have been running it on the breakout for about a week now. I loaded the map for the BR 2-2 pipes with stage 1 filter (even though I have no filter yet). It was the closest map I could find. Knowing this, I have it set to auto tune and am slowly waiting for the green areas to fill in before I flash. I did have a couple questions about this process though.

1. What is the most efficient way to really get a good portion of those areas green? High speed? Low speed? Combination? Should I be getting a good open throttle to higher RPMs before shifting? Or just go through a shifting process as I normally would in day to day riding?

2. ECM "updates". If I flash the ECM with less than a full picture in the update button (not the finalize option), does this overwrite the entire ECM configuration or does it simply fill in the holes to what is already there?

3. When all is said and done, should the FP3 stay attached to the bike? Or can you remove it because technically the ECM has been flashed and you shouldn't need to keep using it?

 

The way the SmartTune works on the SEPST is to run varying degrees of throttle in all of the gears.
It's pretty straightforward:
eg: hold 25% throttle for 10 seconds, then 50%, then WOT - in each gear.
I think the FP3 works the pretty much the same (for best results).
IOW, try and record as many different running conditions as possible...

..and FWIW, with the FP3 you can keep running the same AutoTune session over multiple runs, even spread out over multiple days...

 

In auto tune I just drove my bike like I do all the time about 500 mile and said done.i took mine off after I got done.

 

You can take it off. it says so in the manual....

Robert

 

I leave the FP3 on my bikes, I like being able to see real time data and check trouble codes....also the FP3 assumes you have a high flow a/c, once you get that, the base maps for the V&H pipes are right on and will probably perform better before than after the auto tune. I've run auto tune several times, but always go back to the base map, both bikes have Big Radius 2/2 and Big Sucker A/C's....

 

Ride your bike like you normally would.... That's the information the FP3 really needs, right?

I've run a couple of autotuning sessions and have yet to get all the blocks learned. But, realistically I'm okay with that. Chances are I'll never need those particular blocks anyway.

I admit to having pushed the bike a couple of times To try and get a few more blocks learned... i'll twist the throttle a little further than normal and bring the RPMs up a little high. But, nothing crazy. That's really not how I ride. Why should I torture my bike just to see a few colored blocks on my phone?

 

Yeah that was my biggest concern is whether I should be going through all the gears and really giving it a good go. I will stop killing my gas on the backroads then pushing the 4k areas in the lower gears.

 

Matte, you don't actually say what set up you're running. What are your pipes and air filter? Baffles, no baffles? What bike and year? It's easy to half *** the FP3 and get so so results or you can do it right and get very good results. And in my opinion(which don't count for much) what you're doing isn't torturing your bike. Go watch when they dyno a bike, now that's torture.

 

Sorry about that. Said it in the first sentence but probably shouldn't have used acronyms or short handed it. Its a '15 breakout. Stock air filter (haven't upgraded that yet). Big radius 2-2 pipes (baffles in). The only reason I am doing the autotune is because the default map is for the heavy breather which isn't on my immediate must get list. I probably am not torturing the bike so much as other people's ears. lol

 

I would of sent V&H an email through the app for their advice for a recommendation on a base map since only having "breathe out" and no "breathe in".