So, the other day i hooked up my PowerVision to reset a few things, thats when i noticed the the volts only read between 11.9-12.1 no matter how much throttle i gave it, BUT..ive had no signs of a weak battery, codes or any other issues, always starts strong and fast, the battery "looks" new, but it was in the bike when i bought it, i cleaned up the battery terminals and the ground for the regulator, but no change in the volts, any ideas? again...the bike has "shown" no signs of problems.
thanks
oh, its an 05 softail standard with a little over 20k

 

Rather than get into a lengthy response I posted a link. Quite a few youtube videos also.
Still run into probs, by all means, post them.
http://blog.jpcycles.com/step-by-ste...arging-system/

 

thanks, but can't seem to get the link to work

 

Here's the link for those who cant get it to work:....

Step by Step Instructions for Testing Your Harley’s Charging System

1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged battery that has been load tested to ensure proper readings. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Most places like Auto Zone, Advance Auto, and Pep Boys will charge and test motorcycle batteries for free. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.

2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, Measure DC Volts across the battery terminals (you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts).

3. Check Connections/Wires:
Inspect the regulator/stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection/corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there’s a failed component.

4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check:
Each of the following tests isolate the stator & Rotor, If AC Output test Fails and Resistance Check, and Stator IB Test Pass then Rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).

AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator
Start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts.
Probe both stator wires with your meter leads.
The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification)

Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm

Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multi meter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual for specification)

Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms

Stator IB test or Ground Check:
Switch your multi meter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on multi meter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity to ground your stator is shorted to ground.

5. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.

Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead– Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads– Wires coming from the Stator to regulator.
Ground– Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.

Regulator Ground Test:
Insure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tight to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).

Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
1. Switch multi meter to Diode Scale.
2. Place your Multi meter positive lead on each AC output wire.
3. Place your multi meter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
4. The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
5. Next, switch your multi meter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire.
6. The reading should be Infinite.
7. With your meter on the same setting, place your multi meter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
8. The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
9. Next, switch your multi meter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires.
10. The reading should be Infinite.

 

When the bike is running what does the voltage show with a multi meter on the battery itself? Are you checking the voltage with the PowerVision or with a meter?

 

When the bike is running it show's 12.2-12.5 with a meter, it only shows 14+ when im RIDING it for some reason, thats info from my Dakota Digital speedometer

 

Does this sound crazy that the bike will only charge when its moving?
Like i said though, thats just going off my dakota digital speedometer info

 

That complies with what my dealer's mechanic told me when my first battery went bad after 2 years. Doing "short" around town trips only will constantly discharge your battery. To accomplish an effective charging you will need to ride at highway speed....the longer the better. That's probably one reason why battery tenders are one of HD's best sold accessory items

 

My Dakota Digital speedometer registers 14v at idle.

 

I tested my voltage regulator and it apears to be bad, but its crazy because the bike always starts, and i have no codes