Why does it take so long to swap bars?
#11
06-01-2016 | 07:03 PM
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From: Folsom, CA
I swapped out the stock bars on my '04 Fatboy to Wild One Chubby - 1 1/4" Street Fighters with 4" Chubby risers. I ran the wiring internally which really wasn't that difficult after making a diagram of the stock wiring plugs. I believe the whole process took (hack non-professional mechanic) less than 1 1/2 hours total.
With the Street Fighters (lower and slightly wider) there was no need for messing with cables or wiring extensions. I've heard some say stock wiring and cables work with up to 10" Apes. I haven't tried this myself. Plan out what you want to accomplish before starting and its not difficult. Nine hours sounds really excessive.
With the Street Fighters (lower and slightly wider) there was no need for messing with cables or wiring extensions. I've heard some say stock wiring and cables work with up to 10" Apes. I haven't tried this myself. Plan out what you want to accomplish before starting and its not difficult. Nine hours sounds really excessive.
#12
06-01-2016 | 07:55 PM
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From: Georgia
#14
06-02-2016 | 08:16 AM
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From: Texas
Bars are simple once you sort yourself out. But when you factor in the side things, this is what mechanics bank on. Time to prep/slide back tank, remove hand grips, etc. Changing brake lines and bleeding new ones. Time to solder cable extensions. All that stuff is baked into the equation as specific tasks that equate to specific times required to accomplish. While I expect most exceed those times, from a business perspective, they need to set the minimum standards per bike.
My method for running the wires depends on the type of bars. Hard angle z-bars, you need to run each individual hand control line and ditch the outer sheath. Anything less-hard or not requiring excessive extensions that will be hanging inside the bars, you can easily run the whole line through and do your extension work once ran.
When I do the sheath, on, I leave the plugs on and tie a good knot with some solid string around the strongest plug. If there are 2 plugs (as is on the right side), I tape up the entire area to minimize the plugs getting lodged and also to give the string more area to grip rather than just tugging at the end. To run the line, I tie the string to a ball chain that I angle through the bars until it drops through the hole I need and lightly pull/push everything through.
Without the sheath for harder angles, it is the same idea, except with the hard angles you need to be careful about sending too many ends bunched up which could damage the individual wires. For this, I stagger the ends up the thread. So string is tied to first line, taped, then tied to second line, taped, third line, taped every couple inches. Makes things slide through a tad easier.
All of those require techniques that take time and patience to sort out and master. Remember you are not paying that person just for their time, but also the time they put in mastering that skill. Not to suggest the dealer could probably cut some slack on the cost, but if everyone could do it then the dealer wouldn't even bother offering the service.
My method for running the wires depends on the type of bars. Hard angle z-bars, you need to run each individual hand control line and ditch the outer sheath. Anything less-hard or not requiring excessive extensions that will be hanging inside the bars, you can easily run the whole line through and do your extension work once ran.
When I do the sheath, on, I leave the plugs on and tie a good knot with some solid string around the strongest plug. If there are 2 plugs (as is on the right side), I tape up the entire area to minimize the plugs getting lodged and also to give the string more area to grip rather than just tugging at the end. To run the line, I tie the string to a ball chain that I angle through the bars until it drops through the hole I need and lightly pull/push everything through.
Without the sheath for harder angles, it is the same idea, except with the hard angles you need to be careful about sending too many ends bunched up which could damage the individual wires. For this, I stagger the ends up the thread. So string is tied to first line, taped, then tied to second line, taped, third line, taped every couple inches. Makes things slide through a tad easier.
All of those require techniques that take time and patience to sort out and master. Remember you are not paying that person just for their time, but also the time they put in mastering that skill. Not to suggest the dealer could probably cut some slack on the cost, but if everyone could do it then the dealer wouldn't even bother offering the service.
#15
06-02-2016 | 10:56 AM
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Thanks Matte,
I live in Savannah Ga, kind of a captive audience market there. Not a lot of competion for anything technical. So you have to pay high rates for mediocre work. In Newport News Va the going rate to get a muffler put on my truck was $50 a hour. In Savannah it is $100-$$125.
Pretty sure 8-9 hr quote is factoring in soldering or repining that is not necessary on my bar swap.
I want to pay somone so its ready when i return but its looking unlikely. Really wanted to just take off when I return from deployment
Supposedly with a Slim the connecters can reamain on the Slim factory control wires when pulling them through the bars.
I plan to use the Todds 12" 1.5 Strip bars.
Going to use LA Chopper Mini Ape Black Vinyl cables.
Not certain on what size wire extenders to get. Maybe 4"
Probably do the install day after I get back.
I have watched a few vids. Looks like a few beers and patience will get'er done.
I live in Savannah Ga, kind of a captive audience market there. Not a lot of competion for anything technical. So you have to pay high rates for mediocre work. In Newport News Va the going rate to get a muffler put on my truck was $50 a hour. In Savannah it is $100-$$125.
Pretty sure 8-9 hr quote is factoring in soldering or repining that is not necessary on my bar swap.
I want to pay somone so its ready when i return but its looking unlikely. Really wanted to just take off when I return from deployment
Supposedly with a Slim the connecters can reamain on the Slim factory control wires when pulling them through the bars.
I plan to use the Todds 12" 1.5 Strip bars.
Going to use LA Chopper Mini Ape Black Vinyl cables.
Not certain on what size wire extenders to get. Maybe 4"
Probably do the install day after I get back.
I have watched a few vids. Looks like a few beers and patience will get'er done.
Last edited by TripleB; 06-02-2016 at 10:59 AM.
#16
06-02-2016 | 11:28 AM
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Bars are simple once you sort yourself out. But when you factor in the side things, this is what mechanics bank on. Time to prep/slide back tank, remove hand grips, etc. Changing brake lines and bleeding new ones. Time to solder cable extensions. All that stuff is baked into the equation as specific tasks that equate to specific times required to accomplish. While I expect most exceed those times, from a business perspective, they need to set the minimum standards per bike.
My method for running the wires depends on the type of bars. Hard angle z-bars, you need to run each individual hand control line and ditch the outer sheath. Anything less-hard or not requiring excessive extensions that will be hanging inside the bars, you can easily run the whole line through and do your extension work once ran.
When I do the sheath, on, I leave the plugs on and tie a good knot with some solid string around the strongest plug. If there are 2 plugs (as is on the right side), I tape up the entire area to minimize the plugs getting lodged and also to give the string more area to grip rather than just tugging at the end. To run the line, I tie the string to a ball chain that I angle through the bars until it drops through the hole I need and lightly pull/push everything through.
Without the sheath for harder angles, it is the same idea, except with the hard angles you need to be careful about sending too many ends bunched up which could damage the individual wires. For this, I stagger the ends up the thread. So string is tied to first line, taped, then tied to second line, taped, third line, taped every couple inches. Makes things slide through a tad easier.
All of those require techniques that take time and patience to sort out and master. Remember you are not paying that person just for their time, but also the time they put in mastering that skill. Not to suggest the dealer could probably cut some slack on the cost, but if everyone could do it then the dealer wouldn't even bother offering the service.
My method for running the wires depends on the type of bars. Hard angle z-bars, you need to run each individual hand control line and ditch the outer sheath. Anything less-hard or not requiring excessive extensions that will be hanging inside the bars, you can easily run the whole line through and do your extension work once ran.
When I do the sheath, on, I leave the plugs on and tie a good knot with some solid string around the strongest plug. If there are 2 plugs (as is on the right side), I tape up the entire area to minimize the plugs getting lodged and also to give the string more area to grip rather than just tugging at the end. To run the line, I tie the string to a ball chain that I angle through the bars until it drops through the hole I need and lightly pull/push everything through.
Without the sheath for harder angles, it is the same idea, except with the hard angles you need to be careful about sending too many ends bunched up which could damage the individual wires. For this, I stagger the ends up the thread. So string is tied to first line, taped, then tied to second line, taped, third line, taped every couple inches. Makes things slide through a tad easier.
All of those require techniques that take time and patience to sort out and master. Remember you are not paying that person just for their time, but also the time they put in mastering that skill. Not to suggest the dealer could probably cut some slack on the cost, but if everyone could do it then the dealer wouldn't even bother offering the service.
Now i just realized i probably have to remove my V&H exhaust to install new clutch, really do not want to do that.
If i go with 10" I wont have to change cables but 12" belive i will. Bummer!
#17
06-02-2016 | 11:40 AM
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Bars are simple once you sort yourself out. But when you factor in the side things, this is what mechanics bank on. Time to prep/slide back tank, remove hand grips, etc. Changing brake lines and bleeding new ones. Time to solder cable extensions. All that stuff is baked into the equation as specific tasks that equate to specific times required to accomplish. While I expect most exceed those times, from a business perspective, they need to set the minimum standards per bike.
My method for running the wires depends on the type of bars. Hard angle z-bars, you need to run each individual hand control line and ditch the outer sheath. Anything less-hard or not requiring excessive extensions that will be hanging inside the bars, you can easily run the whole line through and do your extension work once ran.
When I do the sheath, on, I leave the plugs on and tie a good knot with some solid string around the strongest plug. If there are 2 plugs (as is on the right side), I tape up the entire area to minimize the plugs getting lodged and also to give the string more area to grip rather than just tugging at the end. To run the line, I tie the string to a ball chain that I angle through the bars until it drops through the hole I need and lightly pull/push everything through.
Without the sheath for harder angles, it is the same idea, except with the hard angles you need to be careful about sending too many ends bunched up which could damage the individual wires. For this, I stagger the ends up the thread. So string is tied to first line, taped, then tied to second line, taped, third line, taped every couple inches. Makes things slide through a tad easier.
All of those require techniques that take time and patience to sort out and master. Remember you are not paying that person just for their time, but also the time they put in mastering that skill. Not to suggest the dealer could probably cut some slack on the cost, but if everyone could do it then the dealer wouldn't even bother offering the service.
My method for running the wires depends on the type of bars. Hard angle z-bars, you need to run each individual hand control line and ditch the outer sheath. Anything less-hard or not requiring excessive extensions that will be hanging inside the bars, you can easily run the whole line through and do your extension work once ran.
When I do the sheath, on, I leave the plugs on and tie a good knot with some solid string around the strongest plug. If there are 2 plugs (as is on the right side), I tape up the entire area to minimize the plugs getting lodged and also to give the string more area to grip rather than just tugging at the end. To run the line, I tie the string to a ball chain that I angle through the bars until it drops through the hole I need and lightly pull/push everything through.
Without the sheath for harder angles, it is the same idea, except with the hard angles you need to be careful about sending too many ends bunched up which could damage the individual wires. For this, I stagger the ends up the thread. So string is tied to first line, taped, then tied to second line, taped, third line, taped every couple inches. Makes things slide through a tad easier.
All of those require techniques that take time and patience to sort out and master. Remember you are not paying that person just for their time, but also the time they put in mastering that skill. Not to suggest the dealer could probably cut some slack on the cost, but if everyone could do it then the dealer wouldn't even bother offering the service.
#18
06-02-2016 | 01:27 PM
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From: Sharpsburg,GA
#19
06-02-2016 | 01:47 PM
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Just did this Slim last week. To me 4.5 hrs to change everything out. I've done quite a few over the years on various bikes.The bars with the sharp turns/angles are hard but not to bad. The new throttle by wire are the bitches. Get yourself a manual and take your time and you can do.
#20
06-02-2016 | 02:52 PM
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Just did this Slim last week. To me 4.5 hrs to change everything out. I've done quite a few over the years on various bikes.The bars with the sharp turns/angles are hard but not to bad. The new throttle by wire are the bitches. Get yourself a manual and take your time and you can do.
I guess i need to decide if i want to keep original cables/ wires and go with 10" or have to change everything which will require dropping exhaust to go with 12"