Front brake
#21
#22
No question, you clearly know a lot about hydraulics and mechanical advantage, or you wouldn't have asked the questions you did.
I don't know for sure either, never owned or worked on a Sportster. But what I found is that a number of places offer rebuild kits for them, so that would suggest that it exists. Maybe the master cylinder itself is a dealer part.
http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/dr...t/DS-1731-0415
Another option might be the Arlen Ness 15" front rotor kit. It probably wouldn't do anything to bring the brake lever closer, but it should provide enough mechanical advantage to increase stopping power quite a bit, since the diameter of the disk is closer to that of the tire.
http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/a...tail-2000-2016
http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/dr...t/DS-1731-0415
Another option might be the Arlen Ness 15" front rotor kit. It probably wouldn't do anything to bring the brake lever closer, but it should provide enough mechanical advantage to increase stopping power quite a bit, since the diameter of the disk is closer to that of the tire.
http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/a...tail-2000-2016
Last edited by Warp Factor; 04-07-2016 at 02:59 PM.
#23
You can tell the size of the bore from the size of the banjo bolt, so in the future you don't have to take it off to look inside. Doesn't matter here, as you were headed for another bleeding anyway
I learned this when I swapped cables - I bought the right cable for a Heritage but the banjo bolt was the wrong size for the master cylinder. The previous owner had put an 11/16 bore lever on with a custom cable.
I learned this when I swapped cables - I bought the right cable for a Heritage but the banjo bolt was the wrong size for the master cylinder. The previous owner had put an 11/16 bore lever on with a custom cable.
#24
In my younger days, I spent a lot of time working in hydraulic job shops as a machinist, and I had to learn a lot about fluid dynamics. These days, I have a drag race car with a complete Wilwood brake system. The MC I wanted for that, (because of space considerations) only came in a 1" bore, and I really wanted 7/8". I was able to get the mechanical advantage back by changing the brake pedal pivot point. (custom fabb'd pedals).
I'll have to check in with the dealer to see about that Sportster MC. I haven't been able to find one at any of the online parts places. If it priced as i suspect for a dealer part, it may be a lateral deal to a six piston caliper.
The 15" rotor, although a good idear, is a non-starter for this particular bike. I have 16" spoke smoothies. The discwould go nearly to the edge of the rim,and it would be doubtful a caliper would fit in there. If I had a big-*** front wheel like our friend LA dog....well then!
Thanks for the time lookin' that stuff up!
I'll have to check in with the dealer to see about that Sportster MC. I haven't been able to find one at any of the online parts places. If it priced as i suspect for a dealer part, it may be a lateral deal to a six piston caliper.
The 15" rotor, although a good idear, is a non-starter for this particular bike. I have 16" spoke smoothies. The discwould go nearly to the edge of the rim,and it would be doubtful a caliper would fit in there. If I had a big-*** front wheel like our friend LA dog....well then!
Thanks for the time lookin' that stuff up!
No question, you clearly know a lot about hydraulics and mechanical advantage, or you wouldn't have asked the questions you did.
I don't know for sure either, never owned or worked on a Sportster. But what I found is that a number of places offer rebuild kits for them, so that would suggest that it exists. Maybe the master cylinder itself is a dealer part.
http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/dr...t/DS-1731-0415
Another option might be the Arlen Ness 15" front rotor kit. It probably wouldn't do anything to bring the brake lever closer, but it should provide enough mechanical advantage to increase stopping power quite a bit, since the diameter of the disk is closer to that of the tire.
http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/a...tail-2000-2016
I don't know for sure either, never owned or worked on a Sportster. But what I found is that a number of places offer rebuild kits for them, so that would suggest that it exists. Maybe the master cylinder itself is a dealer part.
http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/dr...t/DS-1731-0415
Another option might be the Arlen Ness 15" front rotor kit. It probably wouldn't do anything to bring the brake lever closer, but it should provide enough mechanical advantage to increase stopping power quite a bit, since the diameter of the disk is closer to that of the tire.
http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/a...tail-2000-2016
#25
In my younger days, I spent a lot of time working in hydraulic job shops as a machinist, and I had to learn a lot about fluid dynamics. These days, I have a drag race car with a complete Wilwood brake system. The MC I wanted for that, (because of space considerations) only came in a 1" bore, and I really wanted 7/8". I was able to get the mechanical advantage back by changing the brake pedal pivot point. (custom fabb'd pedals).
I'll have to check in with the dealer to see about that Sportster MC. I haven't been able to find one at any of the online parts places. If it priced as i suspect for a dealer part, it may be a lateral deal to a six piston caliper.
The 15" rotor, although a good idear, is a non-starter for this particular bike. I have 16" spoke smoothies. The discwould go nearly to the edge of the rim,and it would be doubtful a caliper would fit in there. If I had a big-*** front wheel like our friend LA dog....well then!
Thanks for the time lookin' that stuff up!
I'll have to check in with the dealer to see about that Sportster MC. I haven't been able to find one at any of the online parts places. If it priced as i suspect for a dealer part, it may be a lateral deal to a six piston caliper.
The 15" rotor, although a good idear, is a non-starter for this particular bike. I have 16" spoke smoothies. The discwould go nearly to the edge of the rim,and it would be doubtful a caliper would fit in there. If I had a big-*** front wheel like our friend LA dog....well then!
Thanks for the time lookin' that stuff up!
Warps suggestion was a good one with a physically larger rotor- that will *definitely* help big time. but about the wheels, yep totally understandable. beyond that- probably do as you stated go with better calipers - braided lines too. although it sounds to me like you have lever force, just no pad to disc bite - at least from your description of things. I'll keep my fingers crossed that the HH pads are the quick / easy fix. make sure you bed the pads initially / break them in. they need the typical break in / heat cycle process. pretty quick to do though.
Last edited by LA_Dog; 04-07-2016 at 05:21 PM. Reason: mistake - 4 piston not 6!
#26
#28
Taking a quick look just now, there might be room on the master assembly to re-drill the pivot pin holes offset, and fit a larger pin.
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