Clean your Ignition Switch - Prevent Stalling While Riding
#81
05-23-2021 | 11:37 AM
Novice
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 21
Likes: 6
From: Nebraska
Are there 2021 working links to photos?
I would like to see if anyone could share the photos to help support this thread - I know it is old, but would be helpful.
My ignition switch had some of the material around the flat contact area melted and even though I sanded and followed instructions, if I rotate the switch just a bit counter clockwise, the bike will stop. I am hoping not to replace switch.
My ignition switch had some of the material around the flat contact area melted and even though I sanded and followed instructions, if I rotate the switch just a bit counter clockwise, the bike will stop. I am hoping not to replace switch.
#82
05-23-2021 | 12:03 PM
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 16,258
Likes: 15,103
From: Somewhere SW
I would like to see if anyone could share the photos to help support this thread - I know it is old, but would be helpful.
My ignition switch had some of the material around the flat contact area melted and even though I sanded and followed instructions, if I rotate the switch just a bit counter clockwise, the bike will stop. I am hoping not to replace switch.
My ignition switch had some of the material around the flat contact area melted and even though I sanded and followed instructions, if I rotate the switch just a bit counter clockwise, the bike will stop. I am hoping not to replace switch.
Edit to add if the switch has gotten hot enough to melt throw it away.
Last edited by JustDave13; 05-23-2021 at 12:07 PM.
#83
12-16-2021 | 11:40 PM
6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 12
Likes: 8
From: Australia
My 2017 FLS had an updated switch from the earlier ones pictured. Possibly rectifying the discussed issue?
The updated switch can still be dismantled and cleaned similar steps to above - note mine was like new inside after 4 years - 25,000kms.
**Before attempting - disconnect the negative battery terminal.
• Remove the console from tank.
• Place a microfibre / cover to protect tank paintwork, as you will remove the switch from the console in situ.
•The rear of the switch housing differs, has a small deutche style 2 prong plug. Disconect this plug from the switch gently prying the 2 locking tabs.
•Remove the 4 screws securing the switch to console and remove switch. sit console back in place on bike.
•The rear of the switch is separated by gently pressing 4 perimeter locking prongs / tabs and then separating the two plastic switch halves.
•This reveals the electrical component of the switch inside (Grey circle with square section in middle which indents to the rear of the metal ignition switch.
This can be pulled apart to inspect & clean (gently pull this grey circle upwards and out, it simply has a sealing o-ring, nothing securing it.
Clean the dielectric grease from the circuit board contacts if required and re apply. (Mine looked great inside).
• The Metal switch locking mechanism is separated from the plastic outer housing by removing the large cir clip as in previous switch design.
Once separated it has 2 spring loaded bullets which snap into indents inside the outer plastic housing locating the switch to the 3 positions.
If required give all of this area a clean with q tips & isopropyl alcohol, dry and re grease the bullets and inside the outer housing with regular grease.
•Then reassemble.
*Take note of the orientation of the spring loaded bullets to housing indents (with the switch in off position), position the outer housing over the metal switch check switch indent operation in the off, accessory and on position. If working correctly then re install the circlip, then gently press the reassembled electrical switch to the outer housing, with the locating square of the electrical switch located in the corresponding position to the inside of the metal switch - press gently until you hear the clicking of the 4 perimeter locking tabs. check it is secured by gently pulling apart.
• install switch back to console with 4 screws, reinsert plug and reinstall console to tank.
• Reconnect negative battery terminal and finally check the ignition switch operation by cycling to on / (start the bike) / off / and accessory position.
The updated switch can still be dismantled and cleaned similar steps to above - note mine was like new inside after 4 years - 25,000kms.
**Before attempting - disconnect the negative battery terminal.
• Remove the console from tank.
• Place a microfibre / cover to protect tank paintwork, as you will remove the switch from the console in situ.
•The rear of the switch housing differs, has a small deutche style 2 prong plug. Disconect this plug from the switch gently prying the 2 locking tabs.
•Remove the 4 screws securing the switch to console and remove switch. sit console back in place on bike.
•The rear of the switch is separated by gently pressing 4 perimeter locking prongs / tabs and then separating the two plastic switch halves.
•This reveals the electrical component of the switch inside (Grey circle with square section in middle which indents to the rear of the metal ignition switch.
This can be pulled apart to inspect & clean (gently pull this grey circle upwards and out, it simply has a sealing o-ring, nothing securing it.
Clean the dielectric grease from the circuit board contacts if required and re apply. (Mine looked great inside).
• The Metal switch locking mechanism is separated from the plastic outer housing by removing the large cir clip as in previous switch design.
Once separated it has 2 spring loaded bullets which snap into indents inside the outer plastic housing locating the switch to the 3 positions.
If required give all of this area a clean with q tips & isopropyl alcohol, dry and re grease the bullets and inside the outer housing with regular grease.
•Then reassemble.
*Take note of the orientation of the spring loaded bullets to housing indents (with the switch in off position), position the outer housing over the metal switch check switch indent operation in the off, accessory and on position. If working correctly then re install the circlip, then gently press the reassembled electrical switch to the outer housing, with the locating square of the electrical switch located in the corresponding position to the inside of the metal switch - press gently until you hear the clicking of the 4 perimeter locking tabs. check it is secured by gently pulling apart.
• install switch back to console with 4 screws, reinsert plug and reinstall console to tank.
• Reconnect negative battery terminal and finally check the ignition switch operation by cycling to on / (start the bike) / off / and accessory position.
Last edited by Full Monty; 12-16-2021 at 11:49 PM.
#84
12-24-2021 | 09:58 AM
Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 646
Likes: 349
From: Central NY
This is an excellent post, I wish I found this last summer when I had an issue trying to leave work. I wen through all of the connections(pulled them off, cleaned contacts, ground, etc.) under the seat after I got the bike home. I put on a couple thousand more miles after having this issue without an issue, but this will be a good service for me to do before next riding season.
From me last August:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softa...tup-issue.html
From me last August:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softa...tup-issue.html
#85
06-02-2024 | 10:34 AM
Stage I
Joined: Jun 2024
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: WV
On both of my Harleys with the barrel key ignition I've had the bikes shut off, no electrical power, when riding - forcing me to get off the road under no power. Luckily I lived through both episodes. I didn't learn my lesson the first time, but I did the second time and I want to share it with others to prevent stalling while riding which is a very dangerous situation.
Turns out this is a common problem, the barrel key ignition switch gets gummed up over the years, the grease HD puts in gets hard and the spring loaded connections inside make an intermittent connection. Sometimes the bike will pop and come back alive, sometimes it will shut off and no matter what you can't get it going, and sometimes if you fiddle with the switch it will come back alive.
Avoid all of these circumstances with a simple cleaning of the ignition switch. It's easy and free.
My friend GTMalone typed up this great How-To with pictures on another forum we are on, and he's given me permission to repeat it here. I've copied and pasted this several times now answering this question in threads where guys are trying to diagnose intermittent loss of power that I figured I better post up a new thread - this is regular maintenance in my opinion, to be done every year or so.
Hope this helps someone! Thanks again to GTMalone.
NOTE: THIS IS FOR THE BARREL KEY IGNITION ON TWIN CAM SOFTAILS. It also applies to Evo Road Kings.
Turns out this is a common problem, the barrel key ignition switch gets gummed up over the years, the grease HD puts in gets hard and the spring loaded connections inside make an intermittent connection. Sometimes the bike will pop and come back alive, sometimes it will shut off and no matter what you can't get it going, and sometimes if you fiddle with the switch it will come back alive.
Avoid all of these circumstances with a simple cleaning of the ignition switch. It's easy and free.
My friend GTMalone typed up this great How-To with pictures on another forum we are on, and he's given me permission to repeat it here. I've copied and pasted this several times now answering this question in threads where guys are trying to diagnose intermittent loss of power that I figured I better post up a new thread - this is regular maintenance in my opinion, to be done every year or so.
Hope this helps someone! Thanks again to GTMalone.
NOTE: THIS IS FOR THE BARREL KEY IGNITION ON TWIN CAM SOFTAILS. It also applies to Evo Road Kings.
Researching before we go try to figure out the problem I came across this post. This has given us hope that it's something simple like this.
#87
06-08-2024 | 12:42 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 13,365
Likes: 2,411
From: backwoods
Was out riding yesterday (99 Fatboy) with my husband on a group ride of 64 bikes. Cruising along an we lost all power. Luckily we safely got off the road. Checked terminals and a few things but ended up trailering the bike home.
Researching before we go try to figure out the problem I came across this post. This has given us hope that it's something simple like this.
Researching before we go try to figure out the problem I came across this post. This has given us hope that it's something simple like this.
I ended up buying a drag ignition that was on hand at dealers. Keys don't match now. Dealer had a HD one, keys again didn't match, $150, and would have to wait weeks to get matching key.
If it is dead and won't start, you can jumper the ignition, to see if it starts. look at wiring diagram to get correct terminals.
I don't like my bike, but carry fork lock key with me, which also matches my bags.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post