rocker B. new member. I just bought a rocker C. 2010. been looking at options for the rear fender fix. geez the price tag. I too got a danny grey solo and see you have the thunder bike fender. I didnt know you could just get the fender. It seems to look just fine. And you have drag bars. I'm 5'10 and was wondering about the lowering shocks, fender and drag bars. How your reach? I'm trying to figure out what to do and worried about putting drag bars on and of course lowering the bike and if that'll mess up my reach to both bars and footpegs. could you tell me a little about how it all worked out for you? I just really do not like the stock bars and want either drag or apes. looking at Burly 7'' drag bars. I wanted to PM you but can't seem to find it in my profile. would love to talk more about options. you got one bad *** bike. My biggest issue with this bike is the rear fender/lights and the handle bars.
This bike lends itself well to both drag bars or apes. I went with apes but do also love the look of the drag bars like Rocker B has.
wanted to ask you about the drag bars. did the stock wiring work or would I need to get new wires. I am trying to avoid that until I decide on upgrading cables, switch housing, etc like you did. chromed out. so until then, hoping to just switch out the bars without any extra cost or work.
wanted to ask you about the drag bars. did the stock wiring work or would I need to get new wires. I am trying to avoid that until I decide on upgrading cables, switch housing, etc like you did. chromed out. so until then, hoping to just switch out the bars without any extra cost or work.
If you are swapping bars and not replacing controls you are going to have to depin the connectors in order to pull the wires out of the current bars, which isn't hard to do at all. So if you do need to extend them you would have already done the bulk of the work. A wire extension kit is pretty cheap, about $30.
wanted to ask you about the drag bars. did the stock wiring work or would I need to get new wires. I am trying to avoid that until I decide on upgrading cables, switch housing, etc like you did. chromed out. so until then, hoping to just switch out the bars without any extra cost or work.
Yes the stock wiring works fine, no extensions were needed with my drag bars.
Its been a while...I hadn't made any changes, but I got a few mods in the works (finished the 1st today) and wanted to update the thread.
I sold the Breakout last year so I've been riding the Rocker alot more. I wanted to replace the stock throttle lock and came across the Cruise Mate. I hated using the little wheel/screw on the oem type lock, so I never did. There's a lot of locks out there but most install on the outside of the housing and don't look very nice.
The Cruise Mate replaces the stock lock and requires just a short push forward to lock, it's also spring loaded so a slight flick and it pops right back.
The installation is fairly easy, but I recommend buying the "Drill Jig Assembly" or it might not be. I also didn't have the correct drill and tap sizes so I purchased those also.
Just open up the housing, remove the original lock, drill and tap the existing hole, and screw in the Cruise Mate cartridge....love it, works great!
very few have put in the work to make the Rocker look good, the floating seat always look so odd to me.
you have done this bike wonders in the looks department...great looking bike and tastefully done.
Thank you, appreciate it!
Today I plan on pulling the exhaust and removing the baffles, then installing a set of DK Custom Thunder Torque Inserts. Besides increasing low end torque, they are also said to improve the sound of the V&H Big Radius 2 into 2 pipes, so we'll see!
I also came across an old (2004) set of Harley Fluted Pivot Bolt Covers a while back that I have been waiting until I had the exhaust off to install. I think they'll go good with the fluted pulley cover on the belt drive.
I got the TTIs installed...only problem I ran into was removing one of the baffles. Tried all the tricks I could find on-line with no success. I finally got it out by bending the lip in, and with a block of wood for leverage, (and a half a can of WD 40 lol), I was able to work it out with a pair of channel locks. The other one slid right out no problem. I didn't like threads sticking out, so I used cap nuts instead of the regular nuts that come with the TTIs.
10-20-2020 | 06:04 PM
