I admit when it comes to this area it is all Greek to me. What will you gain by putting these parts in the motor? Is it difficult to do?
The main reasons I'm installing the S&S lifters are, they're better than the stock lifters, and a lot of builders agree that it's a good idea to install new lifters when installing new cams so they can break in together. The install is easy, when already doing the cams and they're not terribly expensive, I paid $113.25 shipped for the S&S high performance set........The "limited travel" spacers go inside the lifters, and according to S&S "making it impossible for the lifter to collapse from high valve spring pressure", makes them work like solid lifters at high rpm. S&S also says that "Another advantage of the HL2T kit is that if a valve is held open when the engines not running, valve spring pressure will not cause lifters to bleed down and collapse causing hard starting and excessive valve train noise when engine is restarted."
So, after talking with S&S I wont be using the HL2T kit. They recommend NOT installing limited travel spacers in the lifters when running the 583c cams and stock valve springs, as it was developed for use with NON bolt in 600+ lift cams, that require stronger valve springs. I was told that the higher spring pressure is what can cause the lifter to collapse.......I cancelled my HL2T order, but the lifters are on their way!!
The main reasons I'm installing the S&S lifters are, they're better than the stock lifters, and a lot of builders agree that it's a good idea to install new lifters when installing new cams so they can break in together. The install is easy, when already doing the cams and they're not terribly expensive, I paid $113.25 shipped for the S&S high performance set........The "limited travel" spacers go inside the lifters, and according to S&S "making it impossible for the lifter to collapse from high valve spring pressure", makes them work like solid lifters at high rpm. S&S also says that "Another advantage of the HL2T kit is that if a valve is held open when the engines not running, valve spring pressure will not cause lifters to bleed down and collapse causing hard starting and excessive valve train noise when engine is restarted."
So, after talking with S&S I wont be using the HL2T kit. They recommend NOT installing limited travel spacers in the lifters when running the 583c cams and stock valve springs, as it was developed for use with NON bolt in 600+ lift cams, that require stronger valve springs. I was told that the higher spring pressure is what can cause the lifter to collapse.......I cancelled my HL2T order, but the lifters are on their way!!
IM taking notes, but if this turns out bad ***, you know im all over you on this mod, got to get this dam squeak gone first....brake drag fixed?
IM taking notes, but if this turns out bad ***, you know im all over you on this mod, got to get this dam squeak gone first....brake drag fixed?
Ya, hopefully you get that squeak figured out soon, it sucks chasing problems......I want to get this brake issue figured out before doing the cams and it's really pissing me off!!! It started when I changed out the rear master cylinder to the chrome one. The new, Mid-USA master cylinders return hole to the reservoir was not drilled all the way thru, so the fluid couldn't return like it should, keeping the brakes partially engaged. They would keep getting hotter until they would almost lock up and smoke the pads. I thought I had fixed the problem by drilling out the return hole, but I noticed after a few rides that the rotor and caliper were still getting way to hot. It didn't lock up or smoke, but the rotor got hot enough to boil spit and the caliper too hot to hold your hand on....So, I figured there must be more wrong with the master cylinder, so I ordered and installed what I thought to be a better quality, more expensive, Drag Specialties master cylinder....NO change, brake still dragging!!! The strange thing is, the wheel spins freely, it's not enough drag to feel when rolling the bike, even when hot, although I think if I ran it longer that might change as they continue to heat up?? It's like the pads are dragging just a little too much when not being applied, not enough to notice anything except the excessive heat it creates. Well, I figured what are the odds of getting two bad master cylinders, so after taking the caliper apart and cleaning up the pistons and that NOT working, I ordered a caliper rebuild kit and rebuilt the caliper thinking the O-rings might be bad......NOPE!!! The brakes are still dragging enough to get way too hot....I did go online and found a lot of stories of defective after market Chinese master cylinders (first was made in Taiwan, second China). I can't think of any thing else it could be, other then a warped rotor, which I checked, or a bad brake line (very unlikely).....So, now I've ordered a genuine HD chrome master cylinder, if that doesn't fix it, then I think it's time for professional help!!!!
Here's master cylinder #2, Drag Specialties. Not sure if it's the problem, but I should know soon enough....
Just a shot in the dark RockerB, but worth asking... Check for air bubbles in the line again. Maybe do it with the front end higher up to help fluid move better.
Just a shot in the dark RockerB, but worth asking... Check for air bubbles in the line again. Maybe do it with the front end higher up to help fluid move better.
I don't think bubbles were the problem, but I did double check today that when I changed out the master cylinder with the new HD part.....and, I think my brake drag problem is finally solved. I had also found that the anti-rattle clip that the pads rest against in the caliper was bent and tweaked, and I think it was keeping the inside pad from moving far enough off the rotor when the brake was released, so I changed that out. The other thing I did, was changed out the EBC HH brake pads to HD pads. Unlike the EBC pad, the back of the inside HD pad has two thin, flat, what look like stainless pieces with some kind of material sandwiched between them. I believe it's there to defuse some heat. So I'm not sure if it was 1 of these 3 things or some combination of them, but now the rotors not getting overly hot and the caliper is barley getting warm!!
The bent anti-rattle clip is part #7, pretty sure that was at least part of my problem...
10-24-2016 | 02:11 AM
