I am not sure how many people have invested in one of these bullet oil filers but I figured I will put up a review on it. I have owned mine for 3 years now and done 2 oil changes with it. Since buying it I have put about 2000 miles on the bike. I know it does not sound like a lot of miles but I been stationed over seas for 1.5 years so not a lot of riding. You can pick up one of these filters off amazon for 154 dollars. What it comes with is one replacement oil ring, 68mm oil wrench, filter, spring, and billet case. The parts are real nice and made of quality materials but For 154 dollars I would expect nothing less. I have been going back and forth debating if I think this filter is worth it. The Billet case is sturdy and well built, Considering the oil filter is exposed it adds a nice touch. Cleaning it isn't hard but it is an added task. K&p says it has a life time warrantee but you have to buy the replacement oil rings. K&p does not advertise how many microns the filter is good to and I think that people should know what it is capable of. One can expect for it to meet or exceed factory specs but they don't say. One thing I do like is the heavy duty magnet on the base of the filter. I believe every oil system should have a magnet somewhere in the line. Every time I clean my filter it is evident that it is doing its job. One thing I do not like is K&p advertises that it cools oil down efficently enough to be considered an oil cooler. It may have a higher flow rate which will help in the case someone does have an oil cooler but it is too small to make a dent in oil temperatures. The biggest thing I do not like about this filter is the added cleaning I have to do. I can't use one of the filter funnels where you punch a hole in the filter and let it drain. Instead I am stuck with the mess. I use a hole can of cleaner during every oil change cleaning the filter and the bike. For the cost of the filter alone it would take 16 oil changes to make up for the cost of this filter. That does not include the added price for cleaner and time it adds. If I could do it again I would probably spent my money so where else.

 

Nice machine work too1 I'll stick with K&N. Thanks for the write up.

 

I have had one on two different SG and have 5 oil changes on it, love it, no issues.

Easy to remove with a socket, put some paper towels in place, minimal mess and clean up. I got mine from DK customs a few years ago for substantially less, not sure of the price now.

You do need a new O ring for the filter when you change the oil.

Took it with me when I bought the street glide.

 

http://www.motorcycle.com/products/k...ter-71983.html

A review I found

 

K&p claims you can reuse the oil ring which for the money it is not worth loosing your oil over. If the price was 60-75 dollars (I paid 85) I would say it is worth all the Jazz it offers. Since I don't hear many engine issues with the stock filter it is an added piece of mind I guess

 

I have always used these and love em- especially on a new motor build since the magnet grabs any break in flakes and I can look at the filter early on to see what's going on. It actually saved my *** on my other Evo bike after I had a shop do a cam upgrade for me- the bone heads did not clearance the cam properly and it started eating into the nose cone bearing and rear thrust washer. fortunately I did an oil change / inspection after running in the cam for 20 miles. saw unusual particles on the magnet (steel)- and if your rings are already broken in, there is only one other place steel is going to come from - bearings or a washer. pulled nose cone and saw the issue- mainly the rear thrust washer was concaved and wearing into cam, and the nose cone bearing was spun! Made the shop pay for damaged parts and new cam and new nose cone. flushed motor, did the cam reinstall myself. all good several thousand miles later on the bike.

If I had not had that KP filter I would have been screwed and needed a whole motor rebuild. I use saran wrap and masking tape, slide it in under the filter and let it cover everywhere oil would run off, use the masking tape to hold it and do any sealing. 5 minutes of prep work saves time of cleaning any oil spillage off of bike.

I've reused the oil ring many times - the key is to not over tighten the filter to the bike or it flattens out the oil ring / prematurely wears it out. also be sure to lightly coat the face of ring with some fresh oil before reinstall. dab on your finger and wipe it around.

 

I have a K&P on my 2007 Procharged Trailblazer SS. Love it!


Soon going to be putting one on my 2005 Night Train and then on my 2015.5 Chevy 2500 HD.


On their site, under the FAQ's, it describes filtration and states: 'The medical grade stainless steel cloth that we use is consistent across the entire media surface and is rated at 35 microns, meaning nothing larger than 35 microns should pass through the material'


Could it be easier to find, yeah. Is that a good thing to say more clearly, yeah.


Cleaning it is easy, and yeah, another step, but I do love the magnet and think it's a great product.


Concur on the O ring being reusable, don't over tighten and it will be good for an easy 3 changes, if not more. One came with the filter, haven't used that yet. On 4th oil change with original O ring.

 

These types of filters have been around in the auto racing world for a long time. Some swear by 'em. I'm not one of those people. I had one similar on my drag race car years ago after getting sucked in by the press, and glowing reviews from other racers.

After about a season, the so called "permanent element" started breaking apart and sent shards of filter material into my engine.....Well, I'll just say I wouldn't use of these things if they paid me.

Not to mention that they are a pain in the *** to clean.

These days, I use high quality spin on filters, then use a filter cutter if I need to check the inside of the filter for contaminants.

Like I mentioned earlier, some people swear by theses filters. I say proceed with caution

 

I began looking at permanent oil filters years ago researching their increased filtration capability. The typical paper filter can go in to by-pass under high RPM's and cold starts, at that time I owned track bikes and was looking for improved high RPM filtration and the superior oil flow rates and progressive by-pass used in the permanent filters convinced me of their value over paper filters.

The pre-filtering magnet, potential for added cooling, and good looks of the filter were just added benefits. If by reducing parasitic loss I got some added HP along the way I'd sure take it but the improved filtration, progressive by-pass, and increased oil flow of permanent filters were my main reasons for switching to them.

If you do a lot of riding the financial savings of these filters is clear, and not throwing old used paper oil filters in the land fill is always a better thing. The discussion of permanent oil filters always turns to micron ratings; HD filters are rated on percentages and averages. As an example, the Outlaw permanent filters in either anodized black or polished aluminum are rated not on a 'nominal' rating but rather on an 'absolute' rating. Google up 'absolute vs nominal' oil filter ratings and you'd have hours of reading on the topic but basically a 10-micron rated paper filter may be letting particles 100 microns and larger through on the first pass. The 304 medical grade stainless steel cloth used in the Outlaw filter is consistent across the entire surface and is rated at 35 microns, meaning nothing larger than 35 microns will pass through the material; this is an absolute rating, with paper filters, the micron rating is just an average based on multiple passes.

The stainless steel mesh filter media is designed to be cleaned and should last for years, it's very well made. You push the filter cartridge down and rotate it to remove it from the billet housing. I normally spray the mesh with brake cleaner from the inside out, push the pressure bypass on the bottom of the cartridge a couple of times to let the brake cleaner drip through it, wipe down the top and bottom with a paper towel and then allow it to dry for a few minutes. I use paper towels to wipe down the interior and exterior of the billet housing and the spring. Put the spring in the housing with the small tapered end facing up, put the cartridge back in the housing, push down and rotate it to lock it in then put a bit of oil on the quad ring and reinstall back on the bike... simple as can be!

I've owned the same 4 permanent oil filters for years now and they simply migrate to the latest bikes in the garage. The quad ring is the only consumable and it will last for 5 - 8 changes with a bit of care. It's safe to say I am a big fan of the permanent oil filters!

 

Good info DK- there are a variety of Chi-knock-offs as well- I'd be cautious of those and only stick with the couple of reputable brands. I've seen the inside of a ebay knock off filter and the mesh quality / bonding was not up to spec IMO. I could see something like that disintegrating or coming apart unexpectedly.
The KP's I have are made very durable- One of them is almost 10 years old now and shows no signs of degradation. I have not used the Outlaw filters but they seem made equally as high of quality. I don't see how it could be a failure point given the construction and materials used in the quality permanent filters. I've never found the cleaning difficult, pretty much just how DK outlined. Even easier if you have a small solvent parts cleaner sink / tank. fwiw-