HD oil or Mobil 1
#51
The following users liked this post:
Campy Roadie (05-09-2016)
#52
#53
I tried RL Tranny this time around and is does seem to quiet down shifts and can get natural easier. Some old timers would do an oil change. Dump the oil out put the plug back in pour Kerosene into the block run the engine drain the Kerosene and refill with the new oil.
#55
I tried RL Tranny this time around and is does seem to quiet down shifts and can get natural easier. Some old timers would do an oil change. Dump the oil out put the plug back in pour Kerosene into the block run the engine drain the Kerosene and refill with the new oil.
#57
Actually there is quite a bit in the sump and cam galley. If you drain them, it will drop the stick level over 1/2 way.. It is constantly being drained off and dumped on. If you read the oil system in a service manual, you will see as designed that's it's purpose is to lubricate the crankshaft bearings, the sprocket bearing in the left crankcase half and the inner cam bearings... It runs a level even with the lip on the sump drain cup...and this level also in the cam galley.
I don't claim to be an expert, I defer to people much smarter than I, who have taught me the following about twin cam "sumping":
There are two sumping conditions.
Wet sumping, means more oil is pumped into the engine than is scavenged back into the oil bag. This is a bad condition that should be fixed ASAP. This is usually cause by a pinched/bad o-ring at the scavenge port where the cam plate and crankcase meet. This will occur when the engine is running and will rob HP, up to 20-30HP. The bike will run sluggish.
The other type of sumping is from a worn oil pump. The oil will flow back through the oil pump into the sump over time when the engine is shut down. It could be days, weeks, or months, depending on your oil pump. That is why you should always check the oil level when warm to avoid overfilling. The oil will usually pump back into the oil bag within the first few minutes of being started. Not a major problem, but not right and will get worse.
These are dry sump engines, when working properly, there should never be more than 4 to 6oz of oil in the sump.
There should never be enough oil in the sump to where the flywheels touch oil.
Not sure how all this relates to your pic, but most experts agree there shouldn't be more than 4 - 6oz of oil in the sump if all is working as designed....
Again, this how I was schooled when I inquired about twin cam sumping..... I don't have enough time/experience working tearing down these engines to claim any first hand experience.
The other forum I read, HTT, is frequented by people who run shops and work on these motors everyday. I searched that forum before posting this, and found plenty of similar expalnantions to what I was taught about sumping....
FWIW.....
Last edited by hattitude; 05-09-2016 at 09:41 AM.
#58
Just read the Harley-Davidson(R) Motor Company Service Manual Engine Chapter Engine Oil Flow. That is all I am quoting. The amount is what I have seen. You may be correct that since the return pump is larger then the pressure pump side, on the crank side, the sling oil is just the dump that the crank picks up. However, the only way the oil on the cam side can get to the return is thru the bearing openings on the crank. So that side runs pretty deep. The crank side just may accumulate the 6 oz you refer to at shutdown from drain down but the pump cannot suck the oil below that lip in the case. On a Softail, the actual sealed drain is in the cam side and that is what I am familiar with.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; 05-09-2016 at 01:05 PM.
#59
I don't claim to be an expert, I defer to people much smarter than I, who have taught me the following about twin cam "sumping":
There are two sumping conditions.
Wet sumping, means more oil is pumped into the engine than is scavenged back into the oil bag. This is a bad condition that should be fixed ASAP. This is usually cause by a pinched/bad o-ring at the scavenge port where the cam plate and crankcase meet. This will occur when the engine is running and will rob HP, up to 20-30HP. The bike will run sluggish.
The other type of sumping is from a worn oil pump. The oil will flow back through the oil pump into the sump over time when the engine is shut down. It could be days, weeks, or months, depending on your oil pump. That is why you should always check the oil level when warm to avoid overfilling. The oil will usually pump back into the oil bag within the first few minutes of being started. Not a major problem, but not right and will get worse.
These are dry sump engines, when working properly, there should never be more than 4 to 6oz of oil in the sump.
There should never be enough oil in the sump to where the flywheels touch oil.
Not sure how all this relates to your pic, but most experts agree there shouldn't be more than 4 - 6oz of oil in the sump if all is working as designed....
Again, this how I was schooled when I inquired about twin cam sumping..... I don't have enough time/experience working tearing down these engines to claim any first hand experience.
The other forum I read, HTT, is frequented by people who run shops and work on these motors everyday. I searched that forum before posting this, and found plenty of similar expalnantions to what I was taught about sumping....
FWIW.....
There are two sumping conditions.
Wet sumping, means more oil is pumped into the engine than is scavenged back into the oil bag. This is a bad condition that should be fixed ASAP. This is usually cause by a pinched/bad o-ring at the scavenge port where the cam plate and crankcase meet. This will occur when the engine is running and will rob HP, up to 20-30HP. The bike will run sluggish.
The other type of sumping is from a worn oil pump. The oil will flow back through the oil pump into the sump over time when the engine is shut down. It could be days, weeks, or months, depending on your oil pump. That is why you should always check the oil level when warm to avoid overfilling. The oil will usually pump back into the oil bag within the first few minutes of being started. Not a major problem, but not right and will get worse.
These are dry sump engines, when working properly, there should never be more than 4 to 6oz of oil in the sump.
There should never be enough oil in the sump to where the flywheels touch oil.
Not sure how all this relates to your pic, but most experts agree there shouldn't be more than 4 - 6oz of oil in the sump if all is working as designed....
Again, this how I was schooled when I inquired about twin cam sumping..... I don't have enough time/experience working tearing down these engines to claim any first hand experience.
The other forum I read, HTT, is frequented by people who run shops and work on these motors everyday. I searched that forum before posting this, and found plenty of similar expalnantions to what I was taught about sumping....
FWIW.....
#60
1) It says in the MoCo's Koran that you smite Willie Allah G. if you don't use his sacred oil.
2) Hillary emailed she uses HD, Trump combs over Mobil 1 daily.
3) HD oils = .380 Mobil 1= .45
4) Nah, too easy and I don't want to get banned!
Mobil 1 V-Twin for me. I'm too pissed off at my "made in China" MoCo boots and accessories that are falling apart to assume that their oil isn't watered down Chinese Vasoline!!!