hi all -

just got a 2000 Deuce with 12K miles on the clock. I plan to lower it, and considering the hassle of removing the shock, I am thinking of replacing them instead. Progressive 422 cost about $400 - a bit too expensive. I am considering another alternative: getting a new stock softail shock and install the burnout kit. there are some new take off on ebay I can get for $50-60, + burnout kit = $150. the questions:

1. how many miles does the rear shocks last?
2. are the deuce shocks swappable with other softail models, up to the 06+ with 200mm tire?
3. for $200 difference, is it worth taking the kit + stock shock route, instead of progressive 422?

thanks,
Andy

 

i bought a set of adjustable shocks on ebay for about 60.00 back a few months ago..
maybe u can find some too??/ i think all shocks on the softail will fit up to 2005, not sure beyond that...db

 

stangmans,

did you buy these kind of shocks?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ULTIM...rdZ1QQtcZphoto

i wonder how is the ride quality?

 

I had the Progressive lowering kit installed by an indy using my existing shocks for $125.

 

The stock shocks are gas filled - the shock part that is. There is more in that can than just the shock though. Look at the parts and you can get an idea about if you need to replace them or just modify them to get the bike lowered.

Removing the shocks isn't difficult at all. All there is holding them in there is a nut on the front and a bolt on the back. The back bolt goes into the swingarm and the front nut holds the shock to a crossmember on the frame. I believe the frontand rear require a 5/8" and 3/4" wrench, respectively. Front needs a socket, rear needs a combination box/open end. Jack it up and unscrew 'em, that's all there is to it.

Here's the deal on the shock.Its held together by a retaining ring and the pressure of abig spring that is inside of the canister. The shock absorber itself is gas-filled.One end of the shock is the back part that bolted directly to your swingarm. Here's something important about gas shocks - they either work or they don't. There is nothing inbetween; they do not gradually wear out, they fail. Once the seals let go the compressedgas excapes and that's it. Right up until that moment they work just fine. Your bike's shocks will last about as many miles as the ones on your car - same roads, same conditions, not much difference in how they are made.

Anyway the shock bolts to the swingarm on one end. The other end of the shock actuall pushes against a plate that is held from moving by a very strong spring. That spring anchors to the shock casing with transfers the spring's allowable movement (controlled by the actual shock part) to a second metal plate that is itself anchored to the stud that you see extending from the end of the assembly - the thing the front nut went onto. Those two plates that I mentioned have a threaded hole in their middle and they screw on to the end stud so that they can be moved closer together or farther apart as you liked. The inner one is fixed by the spring and you can't see it anyway once the shock is together and on the bike. The outer one is the thing you turn to do your shock preload. You've already figured out that a softail's shocks work exactly backwards from standard automotive style shocks as you'd see on a bike with a conventional swing arm. This is unimportand and has no effect all all on the shock's effectivness.

So that's all there is to it. They are good until they are not and apparently your's are still good; chances are they will still be good 10,000 miles from now. Gettin' the shocks in and out isn't any big deal - just a couple of nuts and bolts. Inside there are three main parts, the shock, the spring, and some sort of adjuster - its all held together by a canister that is actually a functioning part too - though you'd never know it to just look at it.

Now think about this. The shock doesn't extend and contract as far as the swing arm moves. That's because the mounting point for the shock is closer to the swing arm pivot than the rear axle is. That means that a very large movement by the rear wheel has to be controlled by a very small movement within the shock. It takes a very good shock in the first place to do that and indeed the shocks that come stock on a softail are extremely good shocks. You can get better, but they will be expensive. Stock shocks are a steal at the price you can get them for.

In any event when you lower a softail you do it in one way and only one way. You make the distance between the front shock mount and the rear shock mount longer. Remember that internally the front end of the shock was actually a stud that screwed onto the actually shock-absorber assembly? Well, if you want to make the shock longer in order to lower t

 

Kong,

that is very descriptive, thank you for filling me in. i know how the shocks work and i am comfortable in removing them by myself. however, i dont want to deal with spring commpressor (bad experience when was working on a civic ) With this fact , i now have some options:

1.current stock shock + ebay longer stud + installation cost (disassembly the shock).
2.current stock shock + burnout kit
3.buy new takeoff shocks + ebay longer stud + installation cost (disassembly the shock).
4.buy new takeoff shocks + burnout kit
5.ultima shocks
6.progressive 422 shocks

I ruled out option 1and 3 as labor would cost me $75, id rather buy the burnout kit and install it by myself. so, if i quantify the cost of the remaining options, it woud be like this:

2. $100 kit
4.$100 kit + $50 new stock shock
5. $125 shipped (!)
6. $400++

my goal is not really performance, its just to have a better look and not-too-crappy ride. seems the Ultima shokcs is the most cost effective options here. I cannot imagine Ultima products is worse than HD... so im almost positive i will go with option 5.

anybody has other opinion?

 

Progressive 422 from phat performance parts....385.00/free shipping/free t-shirt.....swap the shocks, dont sacrifice comfort and performance...

 

You might take a look at the most recent posts here about Progressive 422s. It is absolutely way less expensive to drop rear using longer mounting studs. I did that first and spent that money whenI should have just bit bulletand put better shocks on. The longer bolts lower it fine at 1- 1 1/2"...but at 1 1/2"-2' I believe the geometry of front rake is affected enough to warrant considering matching drop also. JMO.

However, it seems everypost ofriders who have used the longer mounting bolts that mention the resulting ride quality agree that it is FIRMER, not just that it is prone to bottom easier, but FIRMER as well. I believe that means that bolt geometry must have changed a bit too, affecting not just travel but direction of force. There is very little change needed at bolt for a significant movement of swing arm. In retrospect I personally believe harsher fits better than firmer.

If $$ are simply not available to upgrade the stock shocksAND it never will beAND you gotta lower it now...then all this discussion is meaningless anyway. Deuce just begs to be lowered, and life is full of compromises. Food, shelter and baby food are just some of the things some people consider more important than your motorcycle....go figure John

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