Tranny pulley removal
#3
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Hawg patriot guard (07-01-2024)
#4
Tool # HD-46282 Where to buy?
I too have the big socket tool and pilot but still need to somehow clamp down my pulley while torquing and pulling off the sprocket...Anyone know why this clamp is so scarce?
#5
Most of the time with heat and an impact you do not need the tool. If you do need it you can get it from us or http://www.georges-garage.com/ will be less expensive. Most of the time I just grab the pulley with a rag crank the gun all the way up and hit it. You will find that the ratcheting action of the impact is really not that tuff to hang on to.
The following 2 users liked this post by corliss@bakerdrivetrain.com:
Hawg patriot guard (Yesterday),
JimRunningLizard (Yesterday)
#6
Most of the time with heat and an impact you do not need the tool. If you do need it you can get it from us or http://www.georges-garage.com/ will be less expensive. Most of the time I just grab the pulley with a rag crank the gun all the way up and hit it. You will find that the ratcheting action of the impact is really not that tuff to hang on to.
see post 17 in
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...-moved-up.html
Last edited by Jackie Paper; 01-29-2013 at 07:11 AM.
#7
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#8
#9
Rear Belt Replacement
First I'd like to thank all the people who responded to my tidbit yesterday...but I got impatient and ordered the HD-46282 from them...I'll call today and see if it is not too late to cancel. HD wants $134.95 for their tool. I guess it is worth it because it is anodized orange and says "Screaming Eagle" on it. And now with all this new information it sound like I don't need the tool anyway. Maybe that is why HD never stocks it.
There's a new video on youtube.c_m where Randal shows us how to replace the belt...great video by the way
"Replacing the Secondary Drive Belt." by Randal C....anyway, Randal says he hoped it could be done without the rear wheel removal; but he never really said if he did or not. I have my wheel off anyway, which is how I got into this mess in the first place...got a new tire put on and noticed the Rear Pulley looking not too healthy...the manual says the Pulley Wear can be "subjective" but I could feel with my fingernail a cutting pattern into the front and rear pulley's starting to leave a squared pattern on the teeth. I'm leaving in March down to Bike Week from Seattle...hence the tire...don't wanna be stranded in El Paso needing a belt there. I put a new rear wheel bearing in for good measure...the bike has 50,000miles.
But I'd like to put the wheel back on so I can take it out for a little trip to bring it up to operating temp before I drain ALL the fluids. I need to replace the Primary Oil anyway, but I was going to wait till after I had the back wheel installed so I can start the bike and get it up to operating temp and get maximum dirtage out.
It's no big deal to take the wheel off, it only takes a few minutes as you all know, but it is a pain in the **** to put it back on if you only do this as infrequent as I. SO, my question is: Can I leave the rear wheel on for this belt removal? It looks to me that if Randal is right and I do not have to fully remove the Swing Arm and I can get the belt to squeeze between the Frame and Swing Arm and that Spacer and around the already detached lower of the rear shock; then it would save me from having to fully remove the wheel...then adjust the belt when I'm all done?
I would like to try to video the points that maybe Randal left out...his is a good video, but not a tell all. Thanks Randal and thanks to all the other contributors. Randal said he looked on Youtube first and could not find any footage at all and I have spent two nights looking for more info and Randal is right.
There's a new video on youtube.c_m where Randal shows us how to replace the belt...great video by the way
But I'd like to put the wheel back on so I can take it out for a little trip to bring it up to operating temp before I drain ALL the fluids. I need to replace the Primary Oil anyway, but I was going to wait till after I had the back wheel installed so I can start the bike and get it up to operating temp and get maximum dirtage out.
It's no big deal to take the wheel off, it only takes a few minutes as you all know, but it is a pain in the **** to put it back on if you only do this as infrequent as I. SO, my question is: Can I leave the rear wheel on for this belt removal? It looks to me that if Randal is right and I do not have to fully remove the Swing Arm and I can get the belt to squeeze between the Frame and Swing Arm and that Spacer and around the already detached lower of the rear shock; then it would save me from having to fully remove the wheel...then adjust the belt when I'm all done?
I would like to try to video the points that maybe Randal left out...his is a good video, but not a tell all. Thanks Randal and thanks to all the other contributors. Randal said he looked on Youtube first and could not find any footage at all and I have spent two nights looking for more info and Randal is right.
Last edited by Outlaw7x77; 01-16-2013 at 10:10 AM. Reason: add info
#10