2007 FLHT,
true dual thundermax exhaust
Dyanjet Power Commander III USB with O2 sensor delete

New to me been running great!
I did a 3 hole oil change and I've ridden it about 1000 miles,
No problems

Today out of nowhere I decided to open her up got up to about 95 then exited the freeway.
came up to the light, sat there waiting and turn when the light changed.
Started to accelerate and just dropped out, engine died - no noise - just like I hit the kill switch.
Now it won't start. Trailered it home.

No codes, starter runs great but it's like there's no fire.
I also replaced the sending unit (only) to make gas gauge work, yes I know to check mileage but I am **** that way.
This is my first Harley so I was hoping for some input from anyone that has had a similar problem.

I haven't looked at plugs yet but service manual says this:
Engine turns over but won't start:
1. No fuel in tank
2, Fouled Spark plug.
3. Fuel filter clogged.
4. Discharged battery.
5.Damaged wire or loose on connection at battery terminal connections.
6. Spark plug Cables in bad condition and shorting, cable connections loose.
7. Ignition timing incorrect due to faulty ignition coil or sensors ( MAP, CKP, amd/or TSM/HFSM)
8. Engine Lubricant too heavy.
9.Sticking or damaged valve or push rod wrong length.

 

Start easy. Check for fuel (re-seat the quick disconnect at the tank), check for spark. Go from there

 

thanks, that’s my plan.

 

The service always gives you a bunch of things to check that are never the problem.
Check for spark. Cranking but not starting is often caused by a bad crank position sensor.

 

Awesome, thanks.
I was hoping for some short cut directions. Now on to the service manual for Crank Position Sensor.
thank you

 

Check the relays also. I had a bad relay that killed the motor while I was doing 60 mph

 

I would suggest you actually diagnose the problem, rather than just guess at a possible cause(s) and throw parts at it....

I like to start with the easy/free stuff and go from there...

I always start with checking the battery cables, especially the ground to the frame. Inspect the cables for good, clean contacts, and for any damage/separation at the cable crimps.

Once a good, solid 12V system is confirmed.... Then you know to look for compression, spark, & fuel.

Compression is rather easy and quick to check. I finger over an open plug hole will let you know if compression is present.

Then check to see if your issue is being caused by lack of fuel or lack of spark at the cylinders..

Once you know that the cylinder(s) are not getting fuel or spark, work backwards from the cylinders to the source, be it the battery or the fuel tank...

Electrical can get tricky, and you will need to develop skills with using a multi-meter and systematic checking of the ignition components.

If you plan to work on your bike often, an HD Factory Service Manual for your year/model will repay what you have to spend in short order.

By diagnosing the issue(s), you will learn about your bike and can save $$$ on the repair. While you may guess correctly on the first part replacement, throwing parts at a problem can get expensive quickly.

Good luck with your repair, and keep us posted on the outcome.

 

The best advice so far!
Thank you

 

The easiest way to start is a shot of starting fluid into the intake that will tell you if its lack of fuel.
My bike did the same thing when it blew a line off inside the tank.

 

Well, since you replaced the fuel gauge sending unit. I would look inside the fuel tank to be sure one of the lines didn't come off. I've seen it happen a few times. Like HD noobie already stated, spray some starting fluid into the intake. If it wants to run you know you have a fuel delivery issue.