Good day..
My '08 street bob has been having charging problems (Only a constant 11.9v charge when the bike is running) to which the diagnostic is pointing to the Turn Signal Module PN -68921-07. This part is obsolete and unavailable new.

HD redirects me to replacement PN 68925-07 which is the Turn Signal Security System Module. My Dyna does not have a FOB/Security System, it has a key on the frame.

With the TSSM installed, the bike starts, but then shuts down within 1 second.

The voltage codes no longer throw, but now throws P1009 (Incorrect Password) and B1145 (Security Antenna Open)

Again, the bike has no sec system and Harley only offers this part as a replacement.. Is there a way to tell the TSSM that there is no Security System present?

FYI - I did run the procedure to display the assigned PIN and it was all dashes. I ran the PIN assignment procedure and gave it a pin in hopes of starting it using the PIN method. It took the code (verified with the PIN ID procedure again) but does not allow me to input the PIN to bypass the TSM.

Pease help!!

 

Being a newbie here can be frustrating as all of my posts need to be moderated before they are allowed to be seen. I understand why this rule is in place but I do wish that the folks with the buttons would be a bit more vigilant about getting these reviewed and posted.

Anyway, I didn't sit around like a baby bird in the nest with its mouth open waiting for an answer, It took me a good 3 hours of searching around the net but I did find the process finally!

So then I was going to simply remove the post but thought that someone else might benefit from my digging around.

When performing the transition from TSM/TSSM (or the reverse) you have to allow the new module to establish communication with the ECM - It's not instantaneous. That procedure is as follows"
* Disconnect the ground wire from the battery.
* Remove the old module and install the new one.
* Reconnect the ground wire to the battery.
* Be sure that the run/stop switch is in the run position.
* Perform a normal engine cold start - The engine should fire and then immediately die. LEAVE THE KEY IN THE "IGNITION" POSITION for 10 minutes.
* After ten minutes, turn the key off and then turn it back to the ignition position for another ten minutes
* Repeat the last operation one more time (A total of 3, 10-minute communication sessions between the new module and the ECM).
* Turn the key to the "Off" position and wait at least 15 seconds.
* Perform the engine cold start procedure again. The engine should now run as designed.

Hope this helps someone in the future!

 

Not doubting you, but I would like to hear how the TSM was affecting the charging? I've never heard/read of that before. I'm always willing to learn something new...


As to your specific issue... It appears you switched from a TSM (no security) to the TSSM (with security) using the HDI (international model). With any TSSM change/addition you have to marry it to the ECM. Starting, then stalling, is a strong indication the "password learn" (marrying the TSSM to the ECM) has not been done.

Have you done the proper "password learn" procedure to marry the new TSSM to your ECM? It is different from the PIN assignment. Without a diagnostic tool, IMHO, it's pain in the ***..!

Have you purchased and programmed a proximity FOB to the new TSSM?

Have you purchased and made sure your security antenna, which reads the FOB, is properly attached to it's connector?

I strongly suspect the security portion of the TSSMis causing your issues. Either do the proper install of the TSSM, or I believe the dealer's Digital Tech II, or one of the high level diagnostic tools like the TechnoResearch Centurion Pro, can disable the security altogether after the TSSM is married to the ECM...

Let us know how this works out...

 

You definitely need a fob for your new tssm and here’s how you marry the new tssm to your ecm. I’ve done it to remove a tssm and switch to a non security tsm to a bike once..it’s not that difficult, good luck. Hook your battery up to a tender while you do this.

 

just jump it and get an aftermarket turn signal module

 

"Not doubting you, but I would like to hear how the TSM was affecting the charging? I've never heard/read of that before. I'm always willing to learn something new..."

I wasn't certain what was going on. The diagnostic reader kept throwing that module PN so I assumed that it was somehow in the chain. But, like most newbies, I'm learning that these things point to an area of concern, not the actual failing part as changing the module did not fix the problem.

I'll run the stator check procedure the next time it goes below 90 degrees with 90% humidity. Florida can be brutal this time of year on us old timers.

 

FWIW....

It's been awhile since I used my old HD code reader, but IIRC, the HD code reader module shows in the code check, to tell where the code originated. It's not saying that module needs to be replaced..

The code itself will tell you what/how to investigate your issue.

If I get a chance I will go read the instructions to my HD code reader later today. I will post up if I remembered incorrectly.



I think I saw another thread by you on this problem, where people, several smarter than me, were telling you to check your stator... Did you ever check your stator?

In my experience (certainly no expert) I just don't see a TSM/TSSM, unless the module isn't working and/or has a dead short in its wiring, is causing your issues....

Anyways, good luck with your new (possibly unnecessary) TSSM install.

 

You need to remove the leads coming out of the front of the primary that hook on the bottom of the voltage regulator.

Should be 3 wires. It's a 3 phase AC there. Ohm meter set to RX1. You should see about 0.1-0.3 ohm resistance. (3 checks)

Now check each wire for resistance to frame ground. 0 ohms.

If OK. Start bike and rev to 2000 and check AC across each lead 32-40AC (apx 16-20 AC per 1000 rpm..

If OK, you need to replace regulator but before doing that, remove battery from bike, charge it overnight on a maintenance charger and take to a good parts store that has a battery checker. They will check it for CCA and any internal shorts.

PS.. when all is good, only thing you can really check on a regulator is at 2000 rpm , voltage shoud be ballpark above 13.5DC and below 15DC

 

Just to be clear, a reading of zero Ohms is a fail. It means that stator winding is shorted to ground. Depending on how your meter displays it, for a good reading, you might see something like "0L" which indicates out of range, or overload. There should be no connectivity, or ∞ Ohms between any of the stator wires and ground.

 

Thanks

... That gets me ever time I rattle that off my head. I am so use to check meter with the probes touched that I know I should not see anything checking for shorts.

I have a fancy digital meter but used that old dial one, so long,