New to me - 1998 FLSTC
#1
New to me - 1998 FLSTC
Picked this up earlier this week, looks to be completely stock. Even the carburetor clamps were the Harley clamp style, so its either never been off or was done right.
Came from original owner who bought it in 1998. It appears to be in mint condition, runs and rides like brand new.
I got my bars in today and began measuring for cables.
It looks like +6 on idle/throttle, +4 clutch and +4/6 brake line is going to fit.
The only cable I cannot find is the brake line.
Has anyone done 12" bars on a 98 and older have a part # they can share. I tried j&p, dennis kirk, amazon, hill city cycles etc...but am coming up empty handed.
Either they say its for 12-14" bars, which I found out on my fatboy is too long for 12s.
Or they say +6 but do not list an actual length to compare what length they started with and added 6".
Will pull tank next week and make sure my measurements are correct, disconnect everything and put it on new bars and measure again. Have to keep the old bars on for a little longer. Getting new tires next week since these are dated (4408) and will ride it over there.
These hold air fine the last few days and appear brand new but I'm not chancing anything.
Having the lcd replaced in the gauge so I can see what mileage it actually has, owner said around 6k. But his sister who met me over there and stuff said they didn't know for sure but she thought it was under 10k for sure.
Came from original owner who bought it in 1998. It appears to be in mint condition, runs and rides like brand new.
I got my bars in today and began measuring for cables.
It looks like +6 on idle/throttle, +4 clutch and +4/6 brake line is going to fit.
The only cable I cannot find is the brake line.
Has anyone done 12" bars on a 98 and older have a part # they can share. I tried j&p, dennis kirk, amazon, hill city cycles etc...but am coming up empty handed.
Either they say its for 12-14" bars, which I found out on my fatboy is too long for 12s.
Or they say +6 but do not list an actual length to compare what length they started with and added 6".
Will pull tank next week and make sure my measurements are correct, disconnect everything and put it on new bars and measure again. Have to keep the old bars on for a little longer. Getting new tires next week since these are dated (4408) and will ride it over there.
These hold air fine the last few days and appear brand new but I'm not chancing anything.
Having the lcd replaced in the gauge so I can see what mileage it actually has, owner said around 6k. But his sister who met me over there and stuff said they didn't know for sure but she thought it was under 10k for sure.
Last edited by Justin Young; 08-01-2024 at 06:37 PM.
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#3
#4
The bike looks to be in very good visual condition and very low mileage.
Just some ideas to save you trouble down the line.
When you have a chance consider changing the shift road ends for Heim joints..
The two ends should be available online for under $12 USA dollars total from e bay or whatever.
The timer cover circle does not look original factory but some folks changed them for catalog stuff.
The original factory CAM sensor would melt a beige sealant that released just under timer cone..
Basically look just under your right floor board. look at bottom of timer cone at wire exit.
When original factory beige sensor sealant melts the bike will eventually crank, crank, crank and then you rest..and then bam it starts with a press of button
It gives lots of warning but can be frustrating and could leave you stuck if battery is weak.
The headlight can be clean inside via the bulb hole.
Where did you find the LCD for speedometer?
That LCD leak was common in that era and speedometer was a different manufacturer than 1999 and newer.
It does look to be original and less than 4 digits so under 10,000 miles unless you are showing trip odometer and not miles traveled. Button press on side of speedometer
Just some ideas to save you trouble down the line.
When you have a chance consider changing the shift road ends for Heim joints..
The two ends should be available online for under $12 USA dollars total from e bay or whatever.
The timer cover circle does not look original factory but some folks changed them for catalog stuff.
The original factory CAM sensor would melt a beige sealant that released just under timer cone..
Basically look just under your right floor board. look at bottom of timer cone at wire exit.
When original factory beige sensor sealant melts the bike will eventually crank, crank, crank and then you rest..and then bam it starts with a press of button
It gives lots of warning but can be frustrating and could leave you stuck if battery is weak.
The headlight can be clean inside via the bulb hole.
Where did you find the LCD for speedometer?
That LCD leak was common in that era and speedometer was a different manufacturer than 1999 and newer.
It does look to be original and less than 4 digits so under 10,000 miles unless you are showing trip odometer and not miles traveled. Button press on side of speedometer
Last edited by im; 08-01-2024 at 07:17 PM.
#5
Go here for brake line they will custom build one for you.
https://customorders.galferusa.com/o...xoCzEgQAvD_BwE
https://customorders.galferusa.com/o...xoCzEgQAvD_BwE
#6
The bike looks to be in very good visual condition and very low mileage.
Just some ideas to save you trouble down the line.
When you have a chance consider changing the shift road ends for Heim joints..
The two ends should be available online for under $12 USA dollars total from e bay or whatever.
The timer cover circle does not look original factory but some folks changed them for catalog stuff.
The original factory CAM sensor would melt a beige sealant that released just under timer cone..
Basically look just under your right floor board. look at bottom of timer cone at wire exit.
When original factory beige sensor sealant melts the bike will eventually crank, crank, crank and then you rest..and then bam it starts with a press of button
It gives lots of warning but can be frustrating and could leave you stuck if battery is weak.
The headlight can be clean inside via the bulb hole.
Where did you find the LCD for speedometer?
That LCD leak was common in that era and speedometer was a different manufacturer than 1999 and newer.
It does look to be original and less than 4 digits so under 10,000 miles unless you are showing trip odometer and not miles traveled. Button press on side of speedometer
Just some ideas to save you trouble down the line.
When you have a chance consider changing the shift road ends for Heim joints..
The two ends should be available online for under $12 USA dollars total from e bay or whatever.
The timer cover circle does not look original factory but some folks changed them for catalog stuff.
The original factory CAM sensor would melt a beige sealant that released just under timer cone..
Basically look just under your right floor board. look at bottom of timer cone at wire exit.
When original factory beige sensor sealant melts the bike will eventually crank, crank, crank and then you rest..and then bam it starts with a press of button
It gives lots of warning but can be frustrating and could leave you stuck if battery is weak.
The headlight can be clean inside via the bulb hole.
Where did you find the LCD for speedometer?
That LCD leak was common in that era and speedometer was a different manufacturer than 1999 and newer.
It does look to be original and less than 4 digits so under 10,000 miles unless you are showing trip odometer and not miles traveled. Button press on side of speedometer
It is leaking some beige stuff, pulled the cover off when I got it and its just a tiny amount.
Swapped headlight out for a spare Silver Star I had for my C10. Putting all the orignal stuff I take off up in the attic.
Found the repair place online, its called GuageSaver out of Florida. Have a 3-4 week turn around right now so should find out by the end of the month.
It's not the trip, I cleared that to 0,000 just to make sure.
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#9
Came off a 2012 fatboy in 2018 onto a Brand new 2018 Roadglide.
Sold it late last year to pay off my car and wanted something cheaper.
No onto this Softail, so far I love it.
Maybe its because its new to me but around town and the backroads so far it rides just as good as my roadglide and I had 900$ shocks on it.
I just hope it will be as nice when I do some longer trips and have to hit the interstate for a few hours.
Sold it late last year to pay off my car and wanted something cheaper.
No onto this Softail, so far I love it.
Maybe its because its new to me but around town and the backroads so far it rides just as good as my roadglide and I had 900$ shocks on it.
I just hope it will be as nice when I do some longer trips and have to hit the interstate for a few hours.
#10
The beige sealant is what protects/holds stuff on original factory CAM sensor.
Sensor is easy to replace when it goes bad.
Basically crank three times and nothing...sit, relax for 1 minute and then lightly tap the start button and it catches immediately.
As long as your battery is good you are OK.... the sensor gives tons of warning.
The fog inside the headlight glass is cleanable from the inside
Access via bulb mounting hole with some blue paper towel and a stick.
Good catch on the lcd supplier.
Will save that information.
Very nice low mileage Evo
Sensor is easy to replace when it goes bad.
Basically crank three times and nothing...sit, relax for 1 minute and then lightly tap the start button and it catches immediately.
As long as your battery is good you are OK.... the sensor gives tons of warning.
The fog inside the headlight glass is cleanable from the inside
Access via bulb mounting hole with some blue paper towel and a stick.
Good catch on the lcd supplier.
Will save that information.
Very nice low mileage Evo