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Throttle handle too stiff after new throttle cables

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  #1  
Old 07-10-2024, 03:39 PM
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Default Throttle handle too stiff after new throttle cables

Hi, I just changed the throttle and idle cable on my Dyna FXDX 99'. The throttle cable who broke a while back was originally 40 inches long, but the store only had 42 inches, but the guy in the store said it would work without problems.
He said I just the new cables had to "bulge" out slightly more in some areas.
Anyway, after I attached everything the throttle handle is way too stiff when I try and accelerate and when I release it it barely moves back. I have of course tried and adjusted the tension with the top screws on the cables.
And when also when I move the trottle handle you can hear this scraping / sshh sound that never was there before. like there is some super tension up there. I can't understand what I have done wrong. Pretty annoying since I been in my yard over 3 hours trying to figure it out.

Do I have to set up how the cables are attached on the bike in a special way to make them "bulge" out since they are a bit longer or what?
also the cable wire inside plastic cover moves super smooth when they were not attached to the housing by the throttle handle.

(the photo her is how it looks when the position is in "neutral"
 
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Last edited by 127Tom; 07-10-2024 at 03:42 PM.
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Old 07-10-2024, 03:51 PM
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First thought is to slip the grip and the housing back off the bars just a little. then re-tighten
1/8 in can make a world of difference

WP
 
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Old 07-10-2024, 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by WP50
First thought is to slip the grip and the housing back off the bars just a little. then re-tighten
1/8 in can make a world of difference

WP
The first part you wrote I did.
But I don't understand what you mean by "re-tighten 1/8 in"
Tea-spoon explaination with photos?
 
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Old 07-10-2024, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 127Tom
The first part you wrote I did.
But I don't understand what you mean by "re-tighten 1/8 in"
Tea-spoon explaination with photos?
Ok my bad
Moving the housing and grip outward an 1/8 in has fixed many a complaint as for binding or scraping noise.

Not saying this is the problem just something to try

Good Luck WP
 
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Old 07-10-2024, 05:10 PM
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I think WP is saying is that when you install the twist grip you could push the twist grip up against the handle bar on the inside of the grip tube. You will not see it, but if you pull the twist grip/control housing off the bar a touch, then the grip will spin freely.

Another thought provided you have the thumb screw type tension ****. Try unscrewing it a few turn if you do have one. I can't remember if it was my HD or another bike, but the rubbing shoe has slipped out of place and was binding the twist grip. Opened the housing, noticed this, set the shoe in position and no more issue.

One other thing.that may cause this. Is there any slack in the cables? Maybe the cable adjusters are adjusted too tight?

The bulge in the cable would be where the cables go from the control housing to under the tank. You will just have a little extra curve where it makes the curve. No big deal normally.

Hope this helps,
Tom
 

Last edited by Tom H; 07-10-2024 at 05:20 PM.
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Old 07-10-2024, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom H
I think WP is saying is that when you install the twist grip you could push the twist grip up against the handle bar on the inside of the grip tube. You will not see it, but if you pull the twist grip/control housing off the bar a touch, then the grip will spin freely.

Another thought provided you have the thumb screw type tension ****. Try unscrewing it a few turn if you do have one. I can't remember if it was my HD or another bike, but the rubbing shoe has slipped out of place and was binding the twist grip. Opened the housing, noticed this, set the shoe in position and no more issue.

One other thing.that may cause this. Is there any slack in the cables? Maybe the cable adjusters are adjusted too tight?

The bulge in the cable would be where the cables go from the control housing to under the tank. You will just have a little extra curve where it makes the curve. No big deal normally.

Hope this helps,
Tom
I did not understand much of what you wrote here. I am not a native english speaker.
Do you have some examples with photos?
 
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Old 07-10-2024, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom H
I think WP is saying is that when you install the twist grip you could push the twist grip up against the handle bar on the inside of the grip tube. You will not see it, but if you pull the twist grip/control housing off the bar a touch, then the grip will spin freely.

Another thought provided you have the thumb screw type tension ****. Try unscrewing it a few turn if you do have one. I can't remember if it was my HD or another bike, but the rubbing shoe has slipped out of place and was binding the twist grip. Opened the housing, noticed this, set the shoe in position and no more issue.

One other thing.that may cause this. Is there any slack in the cables? Maybe the cable adjusters are adjusted too tight?

The bulge in the cable would be where the cables go from the control housing to under the tank. You will just have a little extra curve where it makes the curve. No big deal normally.

Hope this helps,
Tom
"pull the twist grip/control housing off the bar a touch"
- I have done this. you mean pull it 1 cm to the right so it doesn' touch the edge of the metal tube? No effect. the damn thing is still hard / stiff.

"is there any slack in the cables?"
- The throttle (pull cable) cable is so that when I twist it all the way back the metal thing barely touch the metal thing on the carburetor so it says "click". and I also seen inside the carbourator so
the thing that turns to give it air is all the way open.

What I do notice is that if I bend and move the cables a bit on the bike I can see the throttle cable and idle cable on the carburator move a bit.
should I adjust and attach them with strips so the cables are as tight as they can or as loose as they can?

Words / stuff I don't know what is:

- thumb screw type tension ****
- rubbing shoe
-
 
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Old 07-10-2024, 05:57 PM
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#9 Rubbing shoe
#10 Thumb screw tension ****

If you look at the cables where the numbers 6 and 7 are, the metal tubes are the adjusters. They have a lock nut to keep them from moving. If the adjuster is screwed out too far, it can make the cable hard to pull.

Did you put the cables on the carb correctly? The one with the spring on it is the return cable, it closes the carb.

Cable slack. At the carb, grab the pull/open cable with your fingers. Now try to pull the cable away from where it is mounted to the carb without moving the "thing that lets the air in". If the cable will pull away a about 2mm VERY EASILY and then get stiff and move the "air thing" you should be fine. Also check the other cable.

Tom
 

Last edited by Tom H; 07-10-2024 at 06:10 PM.
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  #9  
Old 07-11-2024, 10:46 AM
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I did not understand what you meant by "closing the carb".

I took some photos explaining everything in detail. It's super important you CLICK on the photos or at least see them in full size
because I written important text on them. Here they are:










 
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Old 07-11-2024, 02:18 PM
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I think actually the problem can be the cables themself. The "ssshh" / scraping sound as I twist the throttle does not come from the handle, but from the area where the wire goes into that 90 degrees metal rod of the cable.
it's like it can't handle a lot of force / pressure. I also removed the wire from the steering house and just tried to pull it up from the 90 degree metal place, and the "sshhh" / scraping sound come from there.
This must be a cable issue?
These are Barnett cables I got from my locla Harley dealer. Anyone know of this issue?
 


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