Hi people,
Recently I've checked the runout and as you can see, it gives .01" at the max. Based on service manual, it must be ~.002". So, here is my question. Is it something that must be addressed with a high prio, or could wait 'till the good time?

Best regards

 

Not sure I can answer that question directly. .01" seems like a lot on an opposed taper bearing though.
Easy enough to fix but means splitting the cases. Looks like you are almost all the way there now.
Looks like you have it pretty well apart so I have to make the comment. The primary sprocket needs to be torqued down to get a proper reading on runout.
The chances that the inner race has moved is slim but it will change your runout.

 

That sounds high for a shovel, even with quite a few miles. How does the pinion bushing in the cam cover look?

I might closely inspect and mic the end of the pinion shaft for any irregularities that would throw the reading off. But if they are correct, I'd split the cases and see what is going on.

Paul

 

It's high, the vibration had to bad when it was running. The old 5 pc wheels aren't like the late press together drama you hear about all the time, the old ones will twist weirdly and the rods walk to one side, chewing up the thrust washer, side thrusting the pistons and left long enough can snap the pinion shaft where is shoulders down for the oil pump gear.

 

Wouldn't that be deflection as opposed to run out?

 

I realized after Paul's post that I was thinking runout and looking at the picture again, 0.01" deflection in the right side bearing is way too much.

 

And... If the output shaft and sprocket are properly torqued.. Wheels may have shifted, (Shafts not running True) as the side shown is most likely to reflect the deflection...much more than face to face Timkens!!

Time to break out the Truing Stand!!

 

Conosidering how much runout there currently is and without knowing more about this engine and what has been done to it, I'd split the wheels and check everything including the flywheel tapers. If at some time someone over tightened the crankpin nuts, the tapers can be distorted to the point you can't true the flywheels properly. On a good set of the older tapered flywheels it has always been fairly to get the runout well below .0015, and sometime less than that. I know a couple of builders that have gotten them so close the needle (they added dial gauges to their Rowe truing stand) does not appear to move.

You can lap the tapers if they are damaged, but you need the proper equipment to do that.

Paul

 

That's me, set my stand up for dial indicators and I will not accept anything over .001", if I get my teeth in it the needle barely flutters, makes a difference.

 

How many of y'all in the .001" clan, Have re-checked after a few Hard Miles...Or a Weekend at the Dragstrip???
I have found that as long as yer within Harley Spec..may as well leave it alone, As Ours would Move themselves right back to where they Want to Live..Unless welded...which Moves them by the Welding of them!!!