Story:

Have not been on this forum since 2015 and my bike has been parked since sometime in 2016 with a tweaked crankshaft, run out was sitting right around .010 on primary side. All this started from an electrical issue that was caused by a failing rectifier, which showed itself on a trip to Sherwood Forest Faire causing the bike to cut out, backfire severely and die on me. I had the bike towed home, that was at 8k miles on the bike. Got new stator and rectifier through Cycle Electric and was back on the road again with this odd vibration I never had. Rode her another 6k miles, during this time I threw money at the problem and spent hours doing checks and balances that never amounted to anything. I finally parked the bitch due to excessive vibration that not a single mechanic could give me a reason for other than "It's a Harley, they vibrate, it's fine". I lacked the confidence needed to tear into the motor back then and had gotten a quote from Cycle-Rama for the rebuild, financially I could afford it but was not a priority so it got put off while I focused on my other (trillion) hobbies, **** poor excuse for a relationship, coworker moving in with me through his divorce, new truck purchase and the list just keeps going.

Fast forward 7 years; I've torn down and rebuilt enough **** between ATVs, jet skis, dirt bikes and my Cummins the confidence I once lacked isn't an issue. Back then 107" was always my dream build and while I realize that it's already been surpassed and is not the current standard for a big bore build I'm sticking to my guns and following through with it. IMO it will be a nice street-able powerhouse that won't kill me financially (I hope) and is a proven, reliable formula for these Twin Cams. The main purpose of this thread will be to document what I do and ask any questions I may have through the process, follow along with me if you'd like!

Stage 3.5 Build Plan:

• Fuel Moto 107" Kit with New Extreme Duty Jugs
• Fuel Moto level BX heads
• Woods TW-777 Cams
• S&S Cam Plate and Oil Pump
• S&S Cam Tensioner
• Full works from Darkhorse to include true, pin, weld, balance and blueprint crank/crankcase, H-Beam rods, Timken bearing conversion
• Dan Vance will port match throttle body
• SP Concepts Big Bore Exhaust
• HPi V2 Air Cleaner with External breather kit
• G3 Carbonite clutch kit
• Jagg oil cooler kit
• New Injectors (Stock size)
• New Motor Mounts
• Clean fuel tank and Fuel pump factory rebuild kit
• Dyno Tune (Already running a Thundermax)
• Man-O-War Motorsprocket (Future upgrade, currently have a Baker Compensator)

Additional Items:

• New FWD Controls
• La Pera Tailwhip seat
• New Handlebars
• New Grips/Tubes
• New Wheels - Thanks to Snake_Eyes
• New Tires
• Brake Pad/Fluid change
• Front/Rear Suspension upgrades
• Coil/Horn Relocation Kit - Thanks to NEWROADSTER
• New Throttle Cables
• New Clutch Cable
• New Belt
• Paint Tins
• Powder coat Triple Trees and Sliders

Current progress as of the start of this thread:

• Fuel Moto parts ordered and head cores are sent in
• Bottom end is with Dark Horse, received final invoice last week and work should be started soon
• Throttle body is with Dan Vance
• Several other items are already ordered!

Here are a few pictures to start out with...

What she looked like when I parked her


Getting her on the jack and pulling motor








Double Checking that I wasn't loosing my mind 7 years ago - Video starts at zero on dial, everything bouncing the right is runout, to the left is spline valleys, black dot on end of crank shaft is highest point.

 

Top end is easy, bolt on bolt off follow manual. Even bottom end is the same, but makes people nervous. Though sealing the bottom halves is kind of nerver racking, like doing a wood working glue up. I wish it was gasket, but most be a good reason for it.

I am tearing down my 2007 right now. If my runnout is bad, I may do 107, if I have to fix crank. But I hope not, lots of money. If it is is ok, I am just porting and camming

Curious, my stator shaft seal went and cause oil to leak into primary. I have no clue if runnout could cause that, but my bike with a timken and lot more mileage was fine. They also cheapend the cranks around 2005. Were you seeing anything? Or did you just take apart and discover?

 

The details are laid out in the story - I had excessive vibration that was worsening the more miles I put on the bike. Excessive runout could most certainly cause a seal to leak but more than anything I would suspect that age is likely the culprit, with enough time and mileage seals will leak and need to be replaced. I wouldn't be surprised if you find a nice wear groove when you get it torn down. Also wouldn't be surprised if you find runout is off, as I now understand it, every pressed crank to some varying degree will eventually have runout getting into "bad" numbers. When Harley change the crank design they eventually realized that they needed to increase the tolerance for runout. It used to be something like .003 was max and now I believe it is .012. That is a huge difference on what is acceptable.

 

I replaced that seal about 20k miles ago, I don't remember a wear grove, I still got the spacer. I got it apart again, and I am going to measure runnout.

 

That changes things, I'll admit it wouldn't be the first time I've changed a seal and it started leaking shortly after, which is typically user error, one little nick on the lip during install and you'll eventually have a leak. Considering it went 20k miles before you noticed would tell me it's been dribbling for some time now but that could also mean something else is going on. Definitely not a bad time to check runout though! Inspect that seal really well when you get it off and see if you can catch a fingernail on the shaft where it rides.

 

I changed it at 55k, because it was leaking. It has been 20k now, without a problem. The bike started using oil around 25k, which I wonder was it the stator shaft seal.

I bought the george's garage seal installer. Many people tap them in or use PVC. It was expensive, but went easy.

 

Excellent thread so far

 

Thanks!

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Well seems I have had my fair share of small hiccups since starting this build. The whole ordeal that happened with Tucker Speed threw a huge kink in me getting Darkhorse paid up because I had to wait for the refund to clear. I screwed up when I ordered the 25mm axles to get the new wheels mounted and got a wide glide front axle, gotta eat the shipping on that return but I already have the right one on the way. I also picked up a used ignition and neck lock from ebay to do the console mod and the damned neck lock will not open and close, so that also is going back for a refund.

I picked up a DK Customs coil relocation kit on here from @NEWROADSTER and quickly realized it was not going to work with my cylinder fans due to clearance issues. Using the kit's bracket I traced out an extended version on some 1/8" aluminum plate, got it cut out and cleaned up today.





I cut back the wiring on the fans and removed the temp sensor I was originally using, It is a nice addition so you can leave your fans on after a ride as they will cut off once the temp drops but I like the idea of less failure points so I just wired everything direct with the switch. You may recognize these fans as a set of the original Wards Werks before he got fu*ked over by LoveJugs, I still remember back in the day looking at what LoveJugs offered and they did not have a single product that looked like Jason's.

Anyways, got the wires done, new loom slipped over and test fit everything. I think it'll look good setup like this, I plan on making a beauty cover from some aluminum to cover up the coils old mounting location.









Also got my new TC Bro's FWD Controls, I am most likely not going to run those pegs so they may go up for sale. I am eyeballing some Power James knock off Thrashin mini boards cause ain't nobody in their right mind should be paying $400 for a set of boards, that's just insane.

 

All good stuff, all good stuff! Photos are manna from heaven, keep 'em coming, you can't be too generous with pics! We will look at pics of oil spots on a gargage floor for hours and ponder what viscosity it may have been, we will look at what you throw in your trash bin, we will look out your windows and into your neighbors windows if you post those pics
What ever you post, WE WILL LOOK!!! So post!
This is a super winter build thread so post the pics and tell us everything, may the hp/tq force be with you

 

I love threads like this.... Thanks for sharing, I will be watching...

I may be pulling an engine fromm one of my bikes in the not too distant future. I'm now 66 years old, those twin cams are heavier than the old shovel heads, and I'm not as strong as I was 40 years ago... I don't think the old "shovel head bear hug" is going to work for me....

So I gotta ask...

I see the turnbuckles and "S" hooks on your engine. I assume they were used to pull the engine from the frame. I'd love for you to fill in the blanks on how you pulled your engine, especially if you have pics....



PS- I love your set of Jason's fans. Mine are on their second bike, and still working flawlessly...